Muslin or Fiberglass for wrapping audio speakers prior to paint

[Warren Lake]

not sure what you want there and dont get where your friend is coming from.

For starters what are the joints. in making pedestals that are no different than a rectangular speaker cabinet all the joints were mitres so the point of the joint was on the radius once all edges were rounded. No one will ever see a glue joint there. What Frank said will also work, ive done that on some other peoples nasty stuff. Feather back into each surface. Same as using bonding adhesive putting body panels on a corvette then feathering back into the body.

While this might be radical and its more a question. They wrap cars all the time can they wrap speakers? Then some are carbon fibre or have parts of them done that way. Lot of hokus pokus with speakers and who can baffle you the most.

Not even sure why you would need bondo or anything on the joints.

[andrew whicker]

I have a description of the process Mel describes in an old boatbuilding book. I will dust it off and see if anything could apply to speakers.

from Boatbuilding Manual Robert M. Steward (fair use)

Attachment 486425

That's pretty cool. In this case, I was told to use epoxy w/ the cloth. It should give a smooth surface. He has accomplished some very hot rod finishes.

[andrew whicker]

I'm wanting stay away from making 41" long miters (these are big speakers). He runs an internationally recognized speaker company, I just don't get to bend his ear as long as I want. I'm also trying to see if anyone has experience and what their thoughts are. Always open to hearing how someone else has done it, etc.

When he says lines show up using Bondo after a year or so then I listen because he makes these things for a living and does some pretty damn high quality work. I will ask about the Bondo w/ glass. That would seem to fit the bill of between using fiberglass + epoxy and then paint.

The main idea is to use something that covers the glue line and "end grain" of the baltic birch so that it won't show up a year or so down the road. Fiberglass makes sense to me. Muslin was a new material for me, but he said it is easier to work with.

[Bobby Robbinett]

I have built many speakers out of 1” MDF with butt joints. Once the round overs are done and you bondo everything the seams disappear. I have also used vertical grade laminate that will fold over a large round over. I believe that is what Ascend Acoustics used on their speakers for a while. They might still use it, don’t know because I have been out of the hobby for a while.

Another option are lock miters done on a shaper with a power feeder and/or miter folds done on a router, or shaper or table saw.