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Thread: anti-seize compound usage

  1. #1
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    anti-seize compound usage

    for those of you who use insert tooling, and moulders where you're constantly swapping knives and such, do you use anti-seize compound on the screws? i'm wondering what is best practice... thanks.

    -- dz

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by David Zaret View Post
    for those of you who use insert tooling, and moulders where you're constantly swapping knives and such, do you use anti-seize compound on the screws? i'm wondering what is best practice... thanks.

    -- dz
    I used shapers a lot for years in employments. Never ran moulders . One place had two jerks who ran the moulders . A few times over
    years they had knives fly out….but it was never their fault !! They did NOTHING when not not running the moulders , except talk to
    each other…. and they didn’t really like each other. But since everyone else had work to do they had no one else to yak with ….sad ! They
    did not use anti seize stuff , only hubris ! I see no reason to not use never- seize , but you could ask a tech rep .

  3. #3
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    If you do it will decrease the required torque to properly stretch the bolts.
    Bill D

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    If you do it will decrease the required torque to properly stretch the bolts.
    Bill D
    this makes sense, thanks. i recently got an insert head from Great Lakes Tooling, and they call for anti-seize on the bolts that hold the backing plates and knives. that was my first experience with it... and then i ran some moulding on my moulders, and noticed that the bolts are a little rusty, kinda tight, and i thought, the anti-seize strikes me as good practice, especially because my moulders can go weeks or even months without use.

    curious if this is standard practice for others. thanks.

    -- dz

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    If you do it will decrease the required torque to properly stretch the bolts.
    Bill D
    You sure that tiny bolt stretches under 48-50 in lbs? I would not expect 4 ft-lbs to stretch a bolt. I assumed the torque was set to not fracture the carbide with the countersink.

  6. #6
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    Regardless of stretch or not the torque needed will be different to generate the needed holding force. For larger bolts torque is reduced by 25% or so. I have no idea how much is appropriate for smaller threads. And it depends on what type and brand antisieze is used. Ask the maker for recommendations.
    I would guess thread locker would affect torques as well. No idea if it would increase or decrease the torque needed to tighten up the bolt.
    Bill D.

    On Edit: I read locktite recommends torque reduction of 20%. Only one reference so do more research to verify.
    Last edited by Bill Dufour; 09-18-2022 at 12:52 AM.

  7. #7
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    I use anti-seize when dealing with dissimilar metals. I.e. a steel bolt going into an aluminum block.

    I would not have the guts to use anti-seize on bolts used to retain high speed tooling.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Schuch View Post
    I use anti-seize when dealing with dissimilar metals. I.e. a steel bolt going into an aluminum block.

    I would not have the guts to use anti-seize on bolts used to retain high speed tooling.
    i was surprised to see it explicitly called for (and demanded) by Great Lakes Tooling on their insert head. i guess my argument would be this - which is worse, slow degradation of bolts and surface from light rust, or the risk of a bolt backing out, when properly torqued, from anti-seize? i don't know. i'm certainly going to follow their direction for their head....

  9. #9
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    It'll reduce galling in bolts that get a lot of use cycles. The correct grease will also reduce galling. Never seize is like a virus, it has the magical ability to spread itself to practically all surfaces near an open bottle within minutes.

  10. #10
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    I worked with these guys as a customer for about 8+ years. Brian

    https://www.ndindustries.com/portfol...-product-line/
    Brian

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Zaret View Post
    i was surprised to see it explicitly called for (and demanded) by Great Lakes Tooling on their insert head. i guess my argument would be this - which is worse, slow degradation of bolts and surface from light rust, or the risk of a bolt backing out, when properly torqued, from anti-seize? i don't know. i'm certainly going to follow their direction for their head....
    If a manufacture calls and demands anti-seize I would follow their recommendation.

  12. #12
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    Like Steve says, anti-seize is famous for getting on everything. If you use it I would get some 100% IPA (or something similar) and wipe down any residue on the head. Personally I use it on cars where bolts will see conditions a woodworking tool never should. Steel bolts into aluminum housings on an engine for example. If the manufacturer says to use it then most likely their torque values are set up knowing that it's being used. So if you don't you could be under torquing the bolts.

  13. #13
    For most guys one plastic bottle of Never- Seize is more than a lifetime supply. And the friend who inherits even half a bottle is a lucky guy !

  14. #14
    I wouldn't want it around any of my older tooling. Slip is not your friend.

    I dont get the rust thing, anytime I change or set up tooling jointer knives or shaper the stuff comes apart and all goes under a wire brush and soft wire wheel on the grinder. Every time stuff is assembled the parts and bolts are clean as possible. Thats pitch removed that was stuck on the gib and everything clean. There is no rust on bolts threads end and bolt heads all run under the wheel. It takes a bit of time time but its part of it.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    I wouldn't want it around any of my older tooling. Slip is not your friend.

    I dont get the rust thing, anytime I change or set up tooling jointer knives or shaper the stuff comes apart and all goes under a wire brush and soft wire wheel on the grinder. Every time stuff is assembled the parts and bolts are clean as possible. Thats pitch removed that was stuck on the gib and everything clean. There is no rust on bolts threads end and bolt heads all run under the wheel. It takes a bit of time time but its part of it.
    it's minor rust, and only in certain spots... for example, on the williams&hussey moulder, the bolts seem to rust just a little. yes, i clean them, and i try to clean the sockets, but.. it happens. again, i was surprised to see this very expensive custom insert shaper head call for it on the screws and bolts that hold the backing plates and knives on, and it just got me thinking about other equipment with infrequently-used bolts. i think i will use it on the W&H.

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