I got a couple Lee Valley chisels with plastic handles so I don’t need to bring my nice chisels out for boat projects. The steel on them is really good and they hold a good edge. They are under $20 each.
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I got a couple Lee Valley chisels with plastic handles so I don’t need to bring my nice chisels out for boat projects. The steel on them is really good and they hold a good edge. They are under $20 each.
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First, no such thing as "best". Chisels are a pretty basic design, but each implementation makes different choices. How they feel, how they balance, how delicate or robust they are, how easy to sharpen, and how long they hold an edge will differ between each model. Which is "best for you" will depend on how you perceive and rank these, and other, characteristics. That is likely different for each of us and as we tell you which is "best for us" there will also be a large component of what we're familiar with.Originally Posted by John Strong
I have no doubt there are many chisels I could be happy with, but for myself I've settled on the Ashley Iles Mk2 Beveled Edge Chisels TFWW imports and sells. I find them to be easy to sharpen, well balanced in my hands, and with comfortable handles at a price that doesn't rule them out.
There are cheaper I bet could live with and I would have considered the more expensive LV Veritas PM-V11 chisels, because I do think PM-V11 has the best tradeoff between sharpening and edge longevity of any woodworking steel, but chisels are so easy to sharpen that wasn't a priority. (You don't have to take them apart and then reassemble and adjust them.)
I noticed the point being made above that with sets you may get sizes you never use. But on the other hand sets usually provide a discount over the per chisel prices. When I was thinking about this I noticed the basic 4 chisel sets (almost?) never include a 3/8" chisel. Because I need to feel balance etc, I now have more 3/8" chisels in different brands than is reasonable. (Theory was I'd find which model I wanted and get a 4 chisel set and be done. Turns out Ashley Iles aren't typically sold in sets, so the theory wasn't really tested.)
Anyway good luck and have fun in your quest!
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Best steel and edge retention? Get a set - or several - basic (inexpensive) Japanese oire nomi.
A quick Google brought up these: https://www.woodcraft.com/products/f...702d31fb000992
I must add that Japanese chisels are not for absolute beginners. They also need to be sharpened by someone with a little experience. But they will reward with superior performance.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Last edited by Derek Cohen; 09-14-2022 at 9:15 AM.
Friend of the Creek
I would buy a set of chisels which are easy to sharpen for the method I intend to use.
I will note that many chisels have very short blades and are impossible to sharpen on a Veritas Grinding Jig or Tormek is that is what you are using. Of course, if you hand sharpen everything, the size of the blade is irrelevant.
No matter what method you intend to use, I find using a Rikon + Veritas Grinding Jig for reshaping the blade is more or less a necessity, as I don't have the time to do this with a 250 Grit Diamond Stone. I also use a cheap portable belt sander with 80 grit paper and a wooden jig to hold the blade for this.
Regards,
Tom
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+1 on this. Maybe not the specific brands, but definitely a powered bench grinder of some sort. 6", 8", high speed, low speed, WorkSharp, Tormek, whatever. I spent way too long trying to grind bevels by hand. Yes, I can, and have. No, it's not worth it, to me.
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just saw that Schaaf has their set of four on sale right now for $29 on Amazon and that includes a tool roll for storage.
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The best set would be some vintage chisels from a flea market. $5 each and you get the opportunity to restore them.
Moderator
Most chisels are users. Even the pricier ones are used for heavy tasks. If you mean you want abuser chisels to open paint cans and pry and scrape wood, that’s a different story.
All chisels are meant to be used hard - but to be used properly. There’s no way to be gentle with a mortise chisel - but there are abusive things you can do to it.
Descending from soap box now.
Anyway, I really like my Veritas bench chisels in pmv11. They hold an edge well, are balanced in my hand. Any socket chisels (I have a few) feel too dainty in my hands and have a tendency to fall out of the handles.
I owned narex chisels first they were fine but I hated the handles. Too clunky.
Not saying that premium chisels are better than what you can find in a flea market - just that they are not any more precious and are going to be good out of the box with no fixing.
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I‘ve had and used vintage, Blue Spruce, Lie Nielsen, Japanese, Veritas PMV-11, and recently got a 2” Ashley Iles. The oire nomi was the first I got (first hand tool period actually) but never found the handle comfortable. As much as I like the others, the Lie Nielsen are the most comfortable, easiest to use, and best balanced. Haven’t had a chance to use the Ashely Iles yet.
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John, the question you should have been asked at the start was ‘how much experience do you have with chisels (and do you have any at present), and how do you plan to sharpen them?’.
Any chisel can be sharpened and made to work well. Some blades will have better or worse steel, which affects edge holding, but all will work. As a rule of thumb, cheap chisels need more initial preparation than expensive chisels - that is one aspect you are paying for. Handles are a personal matter. One man’s meat is another man’s poison, and all that. How you use chisels is relevant - predominantly with a mallet or hammer is different from pushing only. A chisel for morticing is different from a chisel for dovetails.
Tell us about this.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Contributor
It really depends on many things.
A bit more information might be helpful.
Are you looking for a "full" set from a single maker?
Would a few sizes fill your needs?
Are you looking for one set to do it all?
Just my opinion, having multiple "sets" (not necessarily all by the same maker) is more convenient for various types of joinery.
My paring chisels have low beveled edges and sharpened at a low angle. Yes they do need sharpening more often. (these are Buck Bros. socket chisels purchased over time on line or at estate sales and such)
There is also a set of butt chisels used for some work. (this is my eclectic set, there may be only two by the same maker and those may have been under different names)
Mortise chisels, naturally for cutting a mortise. (another eclectic set, my 1/4" Narex works fine, if a set was needed today a set of these might be my choice)
Also a set of square edged chisels for mortising, tenon work and on lap joints. (these are mostly Witherby with a few others)
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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II’ll admit to being a chisel addict. I like having a variety of sizes to always have the best one, as well as having a backup if that one is not sharp :roll eyes:. I also like having chisels setup for tasks, especially my long Blue Spruce paring ones.
Member
Well, to me, the main considerations are the metal, and how the handles fit my hands. I am still getting into this. Not all metals are the same. The 'old' chisels can be highly variable in how good their metal is. A2 seems to be considered one of the standards. My main experience with A2 was with some turning tools from a lathe manufacturer who is no longer in business. It would not keep any kind of edge, and a friend wanted them so I gave them away. Handles can be highly variable as well. I have to see what my 'new chisels will feel like. I opted for the Kimmons chisels. Chatted back and forth with him a lot. His do appear to be the most expensive ones out there, and I am lucky to be able to buy what I want. When they get here, I will find out. His handles are 'stabilized' and pressed into some sort of epoxy, so being socket type chisels, they will not be able to be tapped out if I decide I don't like them. Time will tell. My set I currently have in the shop are some of the old blue Marples Chisels. They work fine. At least they work far better after I found out about correct angles and sharpening methods.
I was surprised to see chisels made from V11. The V10 and V 15 turning tools have been around for a long time. I would think that the V15 would be too brittle for bench chisels. Not sure about the V11. I am surprised that no one has used M42 high speed steel for a bench chisel. You could use any grinding wheel out there on them and not lose any of the temper in your metal. They may be more difficult to sharpen on standard matrix type oil or water stones, but diamond or CBN lapping plates would be no problem.
I am learning.....
robo hippy
Contributor
These are my chisels
Chisels in Drawer.jpg
I sharpen by hand.
There are several from my earlier experiences and I still use them when the task calls for one or another. The two on the right are great when a long reach is needed. The two with all steel shanks are risk takers (might hit a fastener) Not shown are stone chisels and I have a huge slick that was a waste of money.
But about 15 years ago I sprung for the set of Japanese 'white steel' 'mid priced' chisels. They required a few hours of fettling, or rather we needed that time to come to a working arrangement. My sharpening skills improved and the chisels got consistent and sharp. Since then I have become committed to them and use them for most everything.
Last edited by Tom Bender; 09-17-2022 at 9:10 PM.
Contributor
Reed, Veritas PM-V11 is not similar to V10 or V15. The name is made up, and does not refer to a commonly sold steel composition. Actually the name is a joke made up by Rob Lee: PM stands for powdered metal. V stands for Veritas, and 11 is a reference to “going up to 11”.
Nearly a decade ago I compared PM-V11 with other steels when struck …
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...sCompared.html
Regards from Perth
Derek
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