More on Push sticks

[Johnny Barr]

I use 4.
They all have some grippy material glued to the base and 3 of them have a heel to help push the stock. The push block is from a Steve Ramsey video similar to a Microjig's Grrripper. I've also made a bunch of replacement parts when they get chewed up

Push sticks.jpg

[Patty Hann]

I don't use a single one that doesn't have a hold down function as well as push. A lot are just made quickly, but there are several close at hand.

An older version of this is probably my most used one:
https://www.rockler.com/bench-dog-pu...BoCkGsQAvD_BwE

It gives extra clearance for the over blade dust hood before having to swing it away.

That one looks interesting...will have to think about it.

I never use any one that works anything like this one: https://www.rockler.com/bench-dog-pocket-push-stick I don't mind sacrificing a scrap plywood one.

Do you mean any of them that really do just look (more or less) like a stick?
If that is, in fact, what you mean, why would you never use one? ("Never" is a pretty final word)
What is it that you dislike about them?

[Lee Schierer]

Lee, thanks for the reply.
I've used that style before but I'm always concerned about the handle [eventually] breaking off, which means my hand would go right into the blade.
But then maybe it's fine if it's 3/4 or 1" ply.
The Ng design has more wood and so (imo) more support.
Even if it doesn't really make a difference I think that it makes a difference. So it makes me less... ummm... nervous.
(And you never want to feel nervous when using a TS)

Since my push sticks are made from plywood, it is unlikely that the handle would break off. Even when using a push stick, your hand should never be directly over the blade and if a guard is used, you wouldn't likely hit the blade. If that concerns you, then maybe you should consider a saw stop.

Do you mean any of them that really do just look (more or less) like a stick?
If that is, in fact, what you mean, why would you never use one? ("Never" is a pretty final word)
What is it that you dislike about them?

To me the straight stick type of push stick puts your hand at an awkward angle ass opposed to the grip on a push stick with a hand grip such as I showed above. The gripping area of a stick type is also pretty small.

[Robert Hayward]

This is what I use. The top one is well used. Quick to make from scrap 3/4 plywood using the bandsaw. I usually make five or six of each size and keep them in a drawer close to the saw.

[Andrew Hughes]

I have not had good results with push sticks that push from the end of the board. I get much more control with a aluminum one from rockler with a sharp point that only touches the top I can keep pressure inward towards the fence and forward. With pressure down someone upthread mentioned using a ice pick I agree.

[David Stone (CT)]

I've used this one for many years. It works great-- excellent control thanks to the design and the spring loaded pushing pin at the back means it works for all thickness of material.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...k?item=03J7550

[Bruce Wrenn]

My push sticks look like this.Attachment 485975 They give you good down pressure and ability to push a piece through the cut while keeping your hand well above the blade. They are all made from scrap plywood. The base of the one in the photo is over 12" long.

My push sticks are of similar design, but with one exception. The soles are replacable. When one is worn thru from many cuts, pop it of and stick another on.

[Patty Hann]

I use 4.
They all have some grippy material glued to the base and 3 of them have a heel to help push the stock. The push block is from a Steve Ramsey video similar to a Microjig's Grrripper. I've also made a bunch of replacement parts when they get chewed up
Push sticks.jpg

Neat. I like the idea of the grippy material. It looks like the stuff used for kitchen/pantry shelves. Is it?

[Tom M King]

Patty, I don't like using one that doesn't give complete control. The ones like Robert posted, I would never use. I want hold down, as well as push.

I probably should add that I have never used a table saw with any kind of safety device, other than a push stick that holds the piece down as well as pushes. Yes, I still have all my fingers and have never had a woodworking stationary tool accident. Fingers or hands never get close to the blade, or are over or behind the blade. Also, I almost never do crosscutting on a table saw.

[Patty Hann]

Patty, I don't like using one that doesn't give complete control. The ones like Robert posted, I would never use. I want hold down, as well as push.

I probably should add that I have never used a table saw with any kind of safety device, other than a push stick that holds the piece down as well as pushes. Yes, I still have all my fingers and have never had a woodworking stationary tool accident. Fingers or hands never get close to the blade, or are over or behind the blade. Also, I almost never do crosscutting on a table saw.

Well, I assumed you used something to hold the work piece securely.
You don't have a riving knife on your TS?
I removed that huge mess of clear plastic (aka "safety guard) but I do use a riving knife unless I'm making a bevel cut.
On the big cabinet saws I have used none had a riving knife that "followed" the blade when you set up a bevel cut...but maybe they didn't (and still don't) because it's not possible for a saw to do that.
But other wise I always keep the riving knife in place.

I did crosscutting on cabinet saws using my own Incra miter (a basic one, not the fancy one)...have cross cut sleds too. I like them a lot
The miter on the dewalt is a major joke (as are the sloppy slots) but I've shimmed the slots (on the side) and have made (not yet finished ) a smallish CC sled.
I'm also completing an OaK Zero clearance throat plate.
I'm hoping all these improvements also help with safety. Hoping...hoping...hoping...

[Bob McBreen]

I love the William NG design. I built the template, gathered all of my plywood scrap & made about 150. 3/4", 1/2" & 1/4", basically all of the stuff lying around. 1/4" is the least useful. I mostly use 3/4" push sticks & just replace them when they get chewed up. I wouldn't bother making the 1/4" again.

[Tom M King]

No, I have never used a riving knife, nor any other kind of safety device, nor have I ever known of anyone else who did, personally. Back when I first started, in the early 1970's, I almost had to get in fights with the old guys who worked for me to get them to use the guard on jointers.

I have special purpose sleds, but crosscutting on a tablesaw sled mostly scares me. I use a Radial Arm Saw, or miter saws for almost all crosscutting. I'm not suggesting anyone else do what I do, but I'm comfortable working my way for myself. If I'm woodworking, I'm producing work for a living. Personal safety is never compromised.

[Patty Hann]

No, I have never used a riving knife, nor any other kind of safety device, nor have I ever known of anyone else who did, personally. Back when I first started, in the early 1970's, I almost had to get in fights with the old guys who worked for me to get them to use the guard on jointers.

I have special purpose sleds, but crosscutting on a tablesaw sled mostly scares me. I use a Radial Arm Saw, or miter saws for almost all crosscutting. I'm not suggesting anyone else do what I do, but I'm comfortable working my way for myself. If I'm woodworking, I'm producing work for a living. Personal safety is never compromised.

I'm just a hobbyist and have been taking WW classes at the local CC. So I larns it the ways they teaches it

[Mike Walsh]

There's a good article on push sticks in FWW by Ellen Kaspern: https://www.finewoodworking.com/proj...diy-push-stick. I've used this style for years made from 3/4" and 1/2" birch plywood with good luck. As others have said, there's no need to go thinner than 1/2" as you can just run the stick through the blade. I have a dedicated 1/2" stick for ripping 1/16" banding

[Ole Anderson]

A push stick keeps your fingers safe, a push block keeps your fingers safe plus it keeps the material from rising as you push into the blade. I no longer have a push stick, just push blocks.