Veritas #4 Sharpening Angles?

[Peter Daniels]

I will say-One treat from this has been that I’ve really slowed down while advancing the blade.
I think I’ve been focused more on the project instead of just how to get there. So now, as I ever so carefully advance the blades (on the Veritas or Stanley’s, heck even on a shoulder plane) w/ small turns- I really enjoy that moment when it just starts to scufff the wood. And the ever so thin slivers start to come off the wood.
That moment is really rewarding for me.

[Jim Koepke]

Peter, sorry it didn't come to me to post this link earlier > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?148076

You won't be able to see the images without becoming a contributor (a good use of $6). The words & some of the links might be of use.

Here is a quote on adjusting the blade after putting a plane together:

I often have spare blades so a sharp one can be at the ready. If a blade is changed, even though they are of the same vintage, the lever screw may need adjusting. Usually only a sixteenth or so of a turn unless one is switching from a Stanley cap and blade to a Hock cap and blade.

Making Shavings

At this point, the blade is likely well below the sole of the plane. Retract the blade by turning the depth adjusting nut. Stanley planes made after 1891 will turn counter clockwise to lift the blade. Before we start, one needs to read the grain on the wood. Sometimes it will fool you, but most of the time, you will want the grain to rise in the direction you are planing. So find a piece of scrap 1X or 2X and clamp it in your vise. Start with the business part of the plane off the wood and just the toe (the part of the sole in front of the blade) on the work piece. This is how one usually starts a plane on a work piece. This is especially true when using a jointer. With a smoothing plane, one may at times just be working a small area on a large piece.

Attachment 161174

When it is flat on the wood and pushed forward, nothing should happen because the blade is retracted.
Some set their blades by sighting down the sole and turning the adjuster until they see the blade. When you get to wearing bifocals and your close up sight needs different glasses, you may want to find a different way. I am not knocking the sight set method. I envy those whose eyesight is still that good.

My method is to adjust the depth while pushing the plane on the edge of the scrap wood.

Attachment 161169

This plane is a type 6. The depth adjuster turns to the left to lower the blade. Shavings are just beginning to appear in the mouth.

At this point take a shaving on the one side of the plane and then the other to check the lateral adjustment.

Attachment 161173

Notice that the shaving on the left are visibly heavier than on the right. With the Stanley plane, the lever is moved to the side that is cutting heavier to even out the cut.

(The image that should be here was incorrectly labeled. This caused the wrong image to be uploaded. The correct image will be added later)

Notice that the blade is being held on both sides by my fingers. This is so that any movement can be felt. Over time, you will get used to feeling how much movement is needed. Though some times a blade that is not straight or other factors can make setting the lateral adjustment a pain in the tukus.

My preference is to set the lateral adjustment with very thin shavings. It just seems easier to tell if they are the same. After a bit of experience, you will likely be able to determine by feel if one side of the blade is cutting deeper than the other.

Attachment 161170

The shavings shown are for all purposes equal.

This and many other useful posts are in the archive > https://sawmillcreek.org//showthread...al-wisdom-FAQs

jtk

[Peter Daniels]

That’s good stuff Jim. Thank you.
My thread style is just to search for my answer, not sure I’ve ever delved into that bank of answer.

I’m glad you posted it.
-PD