Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Allbäck linseed oil paint

  1. #1

    Allbäck linseed oil paint

    Lee Valley is carrying Allbäck linseed oil paint. It seems fairly popular for historical restoration work, but most of what I can online is regarding exterior use. Anyone have any experience or opinions on it?
    Cheers.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    2,667
    No replies yet, but I'll just say, at $66/liter, it seems a tad pricy for normal work. It be interesting to know what makes it so special, considering BLO is not exactly a rare paint ingredient.
    < insert spurious quote here >

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    9,057
    I know a lot of people doing real restoration work, but none that use linseed oil paint, especially when it needs to be redone every year or two when the top of the line SW paint lasts for decades, this includes even in Colonial Williamsburg.

    Some really like the old standing seam roofing, and suggest it even though there is nothing authentic about it, and it did require the linseed oil paint every year or two, but the company that made that metal went out of business in 2012, so I haven't seen anyone use it for a Long time.

    Not me either.

    Anything with linseed oil starts to evaporate the LO out as soon as you put it on.

  4. #4
    Linseed oil does not evaporate. And I do know "real" restoration carpenters who have used it and like it.
    With that said, there have been concerns about mildew in damp, shady environments. Tyler, if you're using it inside, or in a dry environment, you're not likely to have those problems.
    "For me, chairs and chairmaking are a means to an end. My real goal is to spend my days in a quiet, dustless shop doing hand work on an object that is beautiful, useful and fun to make." --Peter Galbert

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    9,057
    Perhaps "evaporate" was not the correct word, but whether outgas or any other term is correct, linseed oil leaves. That's why it needs to be redone at some point, and frequently if used outside around here.

    The old formula for window glazing was linseed oil and chalk. I expect most have seen an old sash up close where the linseed oil has left, only the chalk remains and has started to fall out.

    Inside in conditioned space it may be totally different.

    Unless the Historic Preservation is done by absolute purists supported by effectively unlimited budgets, I don't know of anyone that uses it. None of the outfits that I work for want to use it.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,881
    Raw linseed oil might do that, Tom, but BLO is a drying oil and "cures".
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    Guys, raw and boiled oils polymerize ("dry") in the same way; the only difference is that BLO dries faster because of the cobalt drier. They are both drying oils. They also oxidize, which is what causes the weathered surface…eventually. I can't find the page at the moment, but I remember reading Allbäck specs that said to refresh the surface every 5-10 years with LO, and repaint every 20. I can't say whether that's true of their paint, but it's in line with historical performance. The stuff can last a really long time. I doubt it would last that long on a roof, but a roof is a pretty rough environment.
    Regarding Tom's comment about sash--everyone I know who does sash restoration uses Sarco type M glazing, which is linseed oil based. It also lasts a long time.
    "For me, chairs and chairmaking are a means to an end. My real goal is to spend my days in a quiet, dustless shop doing hand work on an object that is beautiful, useful and fun to make." --Peter Galbert

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •