I have a couple of planes that are, for some reason, extra-prone to surface rust (alas, one is my bevel-up jointer). Are the green Scotch Brite pads too aggressive to use on the sole?
[OP]
Member
I have a couple of planes that are, for some reason, extra-prone to surface rust (alas, one is my bevel-up jointer). Are the green Scotch Brite pads too aggressive to use on the sole?
Contributor
They would be too course for me, too deep of a scratch for my liking. For soles I prefer sandpaper laying on a piece of glass anyway, it keeps the sole flat.
Contributor
On the prevention side wipe the sole with an oiled rag after use. Paul Sellers has a tightly wound cloth (oiled) in a can, it sticks up a little and makes oiling very easy. If oil does not stop the rust then passivate the surface by standing the plane in Oxalic acid solution for a few hours after removing the oil.
You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!
Contributor
I have this problem constantly.
I work in an unconditioned space, and its not just my planes, its my table saw, band saw, jointer you got the idea.
I use sandpaper, usually no coarser than 320 grit. Not only soles, but on the sides too. Then i either oil them or wax them.
The Paul Sellers trick uses mineral oil, which I also do, but yes, its a constant battle.
Im late October I bring all the hand planes into the house and take them completely apart, clean, wax and oil them.
Dream of the spring .
Contributor
I use scotch pads all the time. I prefer the maroon (fine) and gray (extra fine) versions. Not only will they knock surface rust off, but they're an excellent replacement for sandpaper during the finishing process. They last much longer than fine sandpaper.
One word of caution though.....
If you use a pad on an iron plane body, do not use it for anything else and especially for sanding oak. I picked up a pad without recalling that I'd used it on a plane and did a final sanding on white oak. The iron particles got in the wood and when I moistened it to raise the grain I got black iron stains that were a real PITA to get rid of. Oxalic acid to the rescue.
Sharp solves all manner of problems.
Contributor
A can of johnson floor wax will prevent the rust and last forever.Originally Posted by Tyler Bancroft
Contributor
The lasting forever is for real. My can of Johnson's Floor Wax was purchased before the wax changed to the clear appearance it has now. I haven't gotten to the half way point yet.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Member
I too have a can of the old stuff, but I'm curious about what you mean by "now." Is there a paste wax product that they are still making that replaced the discontinued old stuff in the yellow can?
Contributor
I have a lot of trouble in the summer, especially with my bandsaw table. My sweat just seems to provoke corrosion more then. I've tried almost everything but nothing worked well until I tried Lee Valley Tool Wax. My theory is that the "micro crystalline structure" allows it to get deeper into the surface of the cast iron and better act as a moisture barrier.
Member
Marta Madden of the Lie-Nielsen staff discusses and demonstrates Scotch-Brite on tools in this video:(11) Caring For Your Lie-Nielsen Tools - YouTube
Contributor
The grey pads (extra fine) are usually enough to remove surface rust. I might use green for initial restoration of a neglected plane, but shouldn't be necessary for removing light surface rust.
Contributor
The old stuff has a tan opaque appearance. The newer formulation of Johnson's Paste Wax that I have seen is a clear amber concoction. Not sure if there is any difference. It might be the old stuff had a lot of air whipped into it.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
I must be doing something wrong. I am on my 6th or 7th tin of paste wax and I am still a Greenhorn.
Best Regards, Maurice
Contributor
Mine gets used sparingly. You may have more surface area to cover. Also my tools often get rubbed with a furniture oil with wax from a rag saturated in it.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
I some times heat past wax to liquid and apply it with a brush to cauls and forms. It makes it go away fast. I recently tried red Scotchbrite on this sander and was pleased with the results. I doubt I will try it on a plane unless its very badly rusted. I also found this about Scotchbrite from the web.
Scotch-Brite™ Industrial Hand Pads | 3M
IMG_0703.jpg Screen Shot 2022-09-11 at 9.52.31 AM.png
Last edited by Maurice Mcmurry; 09-11-2022 at 11:20 AM.
Best Regards, Maurice
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