Drill press and table recommendations

[Brian Holcombe]

A sine plate is used for checking angles, it’s not a machining fixture.

[Steve Demuth]

A sine plate is used for checking angles, it’s not a machining fixture.

That's not how the industry sees it. From the Grainger catalogue:

Sine plates hold workpieces or fixtures at a specific angle to guide accurate machining of angles. Also called sine tables, they have a top plate that tilts out from the surface plate to set up an exact angle.

If you look at sine plates in almost any machine shop, they are highly likely to have holes tapped in the top surface, for attaching clamps to hold workpieces.

[Prashun Patel]

Brian, what are you drilling with these days?

[Brian Holcombe]

That's not how the industry sees it. From the Grainger catalogue:

Sine plates hold workpieces or fixtures at a specific angle to guide accurate machining of angles. Also called sine tables, they have a top plate that tilts out from the surface plate to set up an exact angle.

If you look at sine plates in almost any machine shop, they are highly likely to have holes tapped in the top surface, for attaching clamps to hold workpieces.

That is definitely not how the industry sees it. The fixturing points are for clamping things but not to be machined, for setup and inspection.

I spoke with Suburban Tool about this a number of years ago and was warned that I would eventually get to enjoy a nice ride to the hospital if I made a habit of using a sine plate as a machining fixture. I bought some vise jaws that allowed me to clamp at many angles and use that.

[Brian Holcombe]

Brian, what are you drilling with these days?

I bought a Japanese made drill press for the workshop and for anything heavy duty I just use the mailing machine.

[Rod Dilyard]

I'm a little late to the party, but would encourage you to look at the Powermatic 2820EVR. I had the Delta drill press pictured below for nearly 40 years before I finally had enough of it's rattling lack of precision and overall poor build and decided to upgrade. I have to say that changing speeds by moving belts vs turning a dial is a lot like controlling the temperature in your car manually or with automatic climate control. Both get the job done, but once you've had climate control you find yourself annoyed at having to constantly fiddle with the temperature and fan speed. I looked at both the Nova and Powermatic and had the good fortune to be able to see both side-by-side at Keim Lumber. For the way I work the added electronic features of the Nova just wouldn't get used and I really like the depth stop design on the Powermatic. The more I use it the better I like it. The laser guides are easy to set up and have so far stayed dead-on accurate and just dialing in a speed is one of those little things that I never want to give up. The quill handles are very hefty which lends to a feeling of solid control while drilling which, again, I didn't realize how much of a difference that makes. Plan on replacing the chuck, but I think that's the case for almost any drill press. I bought mine right before the price jump last year so that would make the choice a little more difficult if I had to make it today.

Delta.jpg DrillPress04.jpg

[Maurice Mcmurry]

+1 for Powermatic. Like Jet they use ISO factory's in Taiwan rather than unregulated factories in China.

[Doug Colombo]

I've had the Jet JDP-17 for a number of years and am still happy with it. I really like the large woodworking-oriented table.

+1. I have been very pleased with mine

[Prashun Patel]

I ended up buying the Nova Voyager. I want this to be my “last” drill press. This one has some nice features.

The table is quite large. The travel is huge.

The bells and whistles on the programming are more than just speed changes. I can see myself using these.

Anyway. Thanks for all of the advice.

[Alan Lightstone]

Enjoy. You'll really love it.

[Jim Becker]

If I were going to buy a new drill press, I would have likely made the same decision, Prashun. Congrats!

[Larry Edgerton]

Prashun, I looked around and bought a used Clausing. Table up and down is smooth and easy, but fixed at 90 degrees, exactly both ways. Runout is zero, always. Mine is 2 speed motor with the reeves drive and I control it with a Teco VFD so I can get it down to about 5rpm for drilling plastics. I handle the angle drilling with a machinists fixture I bought used, mount it on the side of the table when doing long stuff. Its heavy, very heavy, but that makes it solid as a rock. I ended up with $1252.00 in it when it was all set up. Oh, and the reeves drive works flawlessly, but one must clamp when using large bits as this WILL NOT SLIP and will not slow down. Learned that the hard way. I love it! Replaced a Powermatic and am not sorry.

Just an option I had not seen mentioned. Hope all is well my friend

Opps, just read to the end and see you bought a Nova. Nice drill press!

[Prashun Patel]

Thanks, Larry. Hope you are well too!

The Nova has not yet arrived, but (like any kid) I am getting excited. Shop re-org has begun.

[glenn bradley]

Congrats. If I ever buy a new one (now that I inherited dad's old Delta I'm pretty well set) it would be a Voyager.

[John K Jordan]

I am looking to get a good drill press. I don’t need all the fancy computer controlled speed stuff that the nova has. Rather I just want one that has an easy to adjust table that is accurate and easy to adjust to any degree, and has a decent stroke.
Any recommendations?

I see this is an older thread any you may have already decided but here is my take. Maybe someone is interested.

I have both floor-standing and bench-top drill presses, both older Deltas. No fancy electronics to go out years from now with expensive or unavailable repair/replacement boards.

My floor drill press has a greater quill depth which is nice on occasion. Both have tables that are quick and easy to adjust up and down. Both have flip up tops with easy speed change by moving a belt on pulleys, printed speed table inside.

I do not like either for fine adjustment of angles. I bought an angled vise instead and use that.

But just like when I want to cut angles on the bandsaw I prefer to make a temporary angled table with a wooden wedge or tilted piece of plywood to sit on top/clamp to the horizontal table. For special things that need precise control I make an angled jig, such as this one, to recently drill precise holes into the bottom of a turned lidded box. I've made several of these, quick to make, but someday I'll make and adjustable one.

drill_jig_01.jpg drill_jig_03.jpg box_albizia_brass_comp.jpg

BTW, the biggest reason I have two is I use one for wood and the other for metals. I don't want to contaminate the wood with cutting fluids, oil, and fine metal shavings.

Oh, and for several reasons I don't like keyless chucks but prefer good quality keyed chucks.

One drill press tip: I drill a hole near the corner in the top of the plastic belt/pulley cover and put the key there. It is always there, never lost or misplaced! Been doing this for 40 years.

drill_press_key_holderr.jpg

And I found a picture of the angled vise for the drill press. More precise and flexible than tilting the table.

angle_vise.jpg

JKJ