Secondary Woodworker II question:

[John Miliunas]

Seems that in the last couple of days, TS blades have become a premium topic, so I'll jump in with my own question. OK, it appears that there's little disputing that the WW II are the blade to get. (Currently, "Librawood" holds the best pricing.) My question is: the 30 or 40 tooth blade? The majority of my cutting 5/4 or less and I really like the idea of having the cuts ready for glue-ups right off the saw. That said, I'm guessing the 40 tooth blade. I'm currently using Systematic combo blades, which in general, I'm pretty happy with, but am looking towards a replacement in the near future. Whatdya' guys think? The 30 or 40?

[Ron Meadows]

John,

I use a 40 tooth for up to 4/4 lumber and a 30 tooth for anything thicker. I rarely have to head off for the jointer after a rip cut and when I do it is definitely operator error at fault, not the blade.

Ron

[Jim Becker]

My question is: the 30 or 40 tooth blade? The majority of my cutting 5/4 or less and I really like the idea of having the cuts ready for glue-ups right off the saw.

The WW-II 40t is probably your best choice, given your primary cutting will be thinner stock. (It does rip thicker just fine, but you need to feed very slowly to allow the gullets to clear out) Interestingly enough, several folks I know say that the 30t cuts just as well and I'm really surprised at how cleanly the new WW-II 20t "serious ripping" blade I own cuts. I actually ripped a sheet of 3/4" underlayment today with it as I just didn't feel like changing the blade after ripping some 2x stock for furring material. The plywood was splinter-free! Not bad for a very sharp 20t ripping blade...

[Todd Burch]

I have a 40 and it works wonderful. I resawed some soft red maple the other night (2" resaw - one pass) with a bunch of fellow woodworkers over and they were AMAZED at how smooth it came off the saw.

Todd.

[Brad Hammond]

just to confuse you a little more john, i use the 30t blade for everthing and i've had 0 problems. my thinking at the time i purchased was if i needed the 30t for thick stock i had it and i could sand out any markes left on thinner stock. i've yet to use any sandpaper on the edges i've ripped. durn good blade.
cya
brad

[Ken Salisbury]

Whatdya' guys think? The 30 or 40?

John,

I am sure everyone knows by now what a huge Forrest fan I am. I have WWII/40, WWII/30, WWI, and a Chopmaster. The WWII/30 does a slightly better job ripping, especially with thicker material. And please note I said "slightly". I very rarely use my WWII/30 and only then if I am doing lots of ripping of thick material.

Using a TS, Miter Saw or a RAS without a Forrest blade is like eating eggs without salt and pepper ugh !!

[John Miliunas]

Well, at least for now, I certainly can't afford more than one of these bad boys. Seems to me that the 30 should fill the void for me quite nicely. I note that my Systematic blades do indeed have a bit harder time with thicker stock and rightfully so, as they are 50 tooth combo's. I've got a fresh one from the sharpener, so I think maybe I'll wander into Woodcraft this Wed. (10% off day) and pick up a WW II, 30. I'll probably end up keeping that on the saw most of the time, unless I have a lot of small stock or crosscutting to do, in which case the 50 tooth may do a smidgen better. Like I said, I'm not disappointed with the Systematic, just looking for a bit better results and time savings. Appreciate all the feedback, gentlemen!

[Mike Schwing]

The WW-II 40t is probably your best choice, given your primary cutting will be thinner stock. (It does rip thicker just fine, but you need to feed very slowly to allow the gullets to clear out) Interestingly enough, several folks I know say that the 30t cuts just as well and I'm really surprised at how cleanly the new WW-II 20t "serious ripping" blade I own cuts. I actually ripped a sheet of 3/4" underlayment today with it as I just didn't feel like changing the blade after ripping some 2x stock for furring material. The plywood was splinter-free! Not bad for a very sharp 20t ripping blade...

Hey Jim, any idea when you'll be testing that 20t puppy out? I've used the 40t WWII for a season now for ripping thick hardwoods - 8/4 hard maple and walnut and while its worked fine, I'd be far happier with a blade that would do the job at a faster feed rate.

Cutting board season will be upon me shortly and those dudes require some serious glue line ripping.

I'd be very interested in a feed rate comparison between that and a 40t on a slice of hard maple.......please.

[Jim Becker]

Hey Jim, any idea when you'll be testing that 20t puppy out? I've used the 40t WWII for a season now for ripping thick hardwoods - 8/4 hard maple and walnut and while its worked fine, I'd be far happier with a blade that would do the job at a faster feed rate.

Cutting board season will be upon me shortly and those dudes require some serious glue line ripping.

I'd be very interested in a feed rate comparison between that and a 40t on a slice of hard maple.......please.

Welcome back from paradise, Mike! The pics are great...

I've been using the 20t Forrest ripping blade for awhile now off and on and it's a trooper. I have no doubt it will cut through anything like butter for I can fit on the saw. Forrest warns that the edges may not be quite as clean as the 30t and 40t, but I have to tell you, the rips I made yesterday morning on some crappy 2x4s were smooth as...well...the skin on some of those bathing beauties you "didin't notice" on your trip!