What is a good way to patch this saw handle?

[Michael D Harris]

This is not a special saw, it is just a user, so the patch doesn't have to be invisible, it just has to be solid. The fact that it is right at one of the holes makes it a little more challenging, I think. So what is the best (or at least an acceptable) way to fill that so that the saw stays solid?

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https://i.imgur.com/LK6bG8g.jpg

[Ben Ellenberger]

I’d cut a quarter the thickness of the handle off well back from the damage, then glue an oversized piece in its place. Shape it after it is on the handle, then re-drill the hole from the back side.

[Thomas McCurnin]

I would look on eBay or Etsy to see if, for this particular saw in question, there might be a handle which could fit. It would likely be an under $20 problem.

[Jim Koepke]

I’d cut a quarter the thickness of the handle off well back from the damage, then glue an oversized piece in its place. Shape it after it is on the handle, then re-drill the hole from the back side.

I would look on eBay or Etsy to see if, for this particular saw in question, there might be a handle which could fit. It would likely be an under $20 problem.

Hi Michael and a belated welcome to the Creek.

Both answers above are good ways to handle this. The only problem with a replacement handle is the holes do not always line up with the holes on the saw plate.

There doesn't appear to be any saw plate visible at the top of the handle so it might be of the D-8 style with a rounded butt inside the handle.

I have a lot of old handles in my shop, not sure there are any of the D-8 variety, will check later and get back to you.

Can you tell what kind of wood the handle is made?

A picture of the full handle might also be of help for screw placement and such. As a non-contributor you can post images but you won't be able to see them. The $6 annual donation is well worth it.

jtk

[Michael D Harris]

Interesting, I hadn’t considered those options, I was expecting some kind of epoxy or similar. Glad I asked.
Here are a couple more pictures—I’m now thinking that another crack I found might be more of a problem than what I first asked about. Will I need to cut away and glue in new wood one the other side two, or can I probably glue that back together? Oh, and I don’t have any idea what kind of wood it is. I’m a total beginner.
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[Jim Koepke]

Is the back of the saw plate straight or is it curved?

jtk

[Michael D Harris]

Straight
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[Jim Koepke]

I'll take a look tomorrow to see if I have something that looks like it can work as a replacement.

jtk

[Maurice Mcmurry]

That looks like a natural bit of character in the wood. The grain around the area is pretty.

[Michael D Harris]

I'll take a look tomorrow to see if I have something that looks like it can work as a replacement.

jtk

Thanks, if you find anything, and I mess this one up bad enough, I'll try that. I think I can salvage this one though. Not sure yet what method I'll use, but I'll at least try something.

[Michael D Harris]

That looks like a natural bit of character in the wood. The grain around the area is pretty.

Are you talking about the larger chip in the first picture I posted? Are you suggesting that I shouldn't do anything? I am just worried that being that close to the nut it wouldn't end up being stable.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Yes, I am looking at the chip in the first picture. It looks natural. I can't tell if it causes a weakness. Jim Koepke will have very trust worthy advice. It is a handle with some unique wood.

[Mel Fulks]

I would save the handle, and the proof is I’ve done two like that. Old Timers patched them , but they were particular about grip, money,
and sentiment.

[Jack Dover]

This is not a special saw, it is just a user, so the patch doesn't have to be invisible, it just has to be solid. The fact that it is right at one of the holes makes it a little more challenging, I think. So what is the best (or at least an acceptable) way to fill that so that the saw stays solid?

Personally I wouldn't bother. But if I were inclined to patch it, I would pick a sharp gouge of an appropriate diameter, then take a deep chip out working from two opposite directions across the grain. Then I would take a chip from a bit with matching grain, concentrating on a chip coming out solid, and then glue this chip in place. The chip will come out kinda "nail" shaped — an oval with sharp points, — and with a very sharp chisel a glue line can be invisible.

This trick works will all kinds of small defects, like pin knots, small blowouts and so on

[Gary Ragatz]

I'm probably missing something here, but I don't understand why we don't just put some epoxy in there. Might want to open the hairline cracks a bit to make it easier for the epoxy to flow in, but why get fancier than that?

Looking at the pics, it's not clear to me that the handle is structurally compromised, as is. For the OP - is the handle loose/moving around?