Router Table in Sliding Table Saw Outfeed Table

[Sean Moore]

I am taking delivery of a Minimax SC3 Sliding Table Saw in a couple months, and I would like to install a router insert into the stamped steel outfeed table to the right of the saw. Does anyone have any experience doing this? Is it possible to cut out the stamped steel and insert a plate into it using some wooden supports underneath, or should I replace the stamped steel outfeed table altogether with a custom wood one that has a router opening cut out.

[Aaron Inami]

That outfeed table on the Minimax SC3 is actually pretty tiny. I think it's really only something like 14" x 14" square. Plus, I don't think stamped steel would be any good to work with. Once you cut a hole, it loses stiffness. Plus, it's going to be impossible to mount a 1/4" thick router plate into that 1/16" thick stamped steel properly.

Unless you are talking about the rip extension table. But the same arguments apply.

I think you're better getting one of the router table tops from Rockler/Woodcraft/etc. and building your own table. Then position it to the right of that tiny outfeed table so that you have an extra-wide outfeed surface behind the rip area.

[Derek Cohen]

Sean, I have a Hammer K3, but completed essentially the same addition as you plan. In the case of the K3, it was possible to add a table to the outfeed rather than drill through steel. I would imagine that doing this would disturb its flatness. Here is what I did ...






Regards from Perth

Derek

[Keegan Shields]

Sean,

In my setup, I don't have good access to the the rip fence table side of the saw, so I removed the small metal outfeed table and replaced it with a large router table.

That's something I really wanted to help support curved chair parts I am flush trimming. Works great. If I could do it over, I would use matte laminate. I used some 3/4" MDF and BB scrap, screwed together with Bondo to fill the screw holes. Doesn't flex at all.

rt1.jpg

rt3.jpg

rt2.jpg

[David M Peters]

Hi Sean, I have the 315es and can give you more insight as to what the rip table is going to be like. I'm going to guess that it's the same, or at least a very similar part.

Firstly, there is a rectangular support tube running the length of the table, right down the middle. Secondly, my table wasn't very flat. It's certainly good enough to support the far end of a sheet of plywood but I personally wouldn't want a router table that bowed. My table is crowned, from left to right, with the two sides being (I think) about 1/16" lower than the middle.

hi Sheanm,

[Jim Becker]

Sean, that steel table is not easily workable. You'd need to be a master metal worker to cut that with precision! You will likely be better served by replacing it with your own construction, using the original for locating holes to connect to both the cast iron table and the fence rail posts.

As an aside, I'm waiting for my SC3C to ship up here from Georgia "as we speak"...there was a little miscommunication with the logistics person about what the plan was and "everybody" is at IWF this week.

[Sean Moore]

Thanks everyone! Looks like I will be replacing the stamped steel table with a custom built router table.

[Brian W Evans]

Sean, I have a SC4e and my steel table is also bowed, with the same support mentioned above, so I will agree that cutting it is likely to fail. IMO, you should make an outfeed table instead of replacing the steel table. The rail that the fence rides on has some flex and requires some patience and finesse to adjust when squaring the fence. Removing the last 2-3 bolts, even if you're extremely careful, then attaching them to a wooden table that will move a little with humidity, is asking for your fence to go out of square.

Perhaps others who have actually done this can explain why this wouldn't actually be a problem.