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Thread: Accurate Jobsite Saw?

  1. #1

    Accurate Jobsite Saw?

    So...I'm thinking about downsizing and selling my PM2000. I'm a hobbyist, have all the Festool stuff and I really haven't been using that PM2K for anything but ripping narrow boards. Thing is, I want a roll away saw that will make accurate and repeatable cuts. What are my chances of finding that in a jobsite saw?

  2. #2
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    I seem to remember there may have been a similar conversation here not long ago. In the end, it comes down to the fence and as shouldn't be surprising, the higher end "jobsite" saws will have the best chance to provide that. But here's a thought....strip the PM2000 down and put the wings, etc., in storage after preparing them to resist rust. Make or buy narrow rip rails. Put it on a simple mobile base if it's not already on it. You now have a smaller machine for your ripping that you know and trust that takes up about the same footprint as most, if not all of the higher quality jobsite saws. And since you still have all the parts to restore the cabinet saw to "full figure", when someday it needs to be pass on, everything will be there.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
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    Why not just put your saw on wheels and remove the auxilliary tables, even cut down the fence? It may not take up much more floorspace than a jobsite on wheels.
    JonathanJungDesign.com

  4. #4
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    Ditto Jim and Jonathan. Our construction company has several good Dewalt jobsite saws, and I do recommend them. We also have several others that I would not. The jobsite saws are the same footprint as a cabinet saw without the outfeed tables and fence extensions, but with less power as more noise. Jobsites also have a shallower table so it's even more important to use a helper or stands. That's a good trade off for a saw that has to be on site for a few days then moved elsewhere, but it's annoying in a shop. I personally have a bit of a tablesaw collection problem, so there are plenty of options when I need a saw. I use a cabinet type saw over a jobsite saw 100% of the time if it's an option.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    I have the Sawstop Jobsite Saw since it came out a few years ago. I love it and, with a one-time adjustment to the cursor on the rip fence, I feel that it is very accurate (maybe not as accurate as a cabinet saw though). I use it mainly for small rips (sometimes longer with a temporary outfeed support). I have used it for cross cuts and they work fine but not with the included miter gauge.

    It does what you seem to want. While it does take up about the same space as a big saw while in use, it can easily be folded up and moved out of the way, which I do quite a bit when I'm not using it. I have never felt it is under powered for what I do and I have ripped 8/4 maple and oak. It does fine but the feed rate needs to be a little slower than with a cabinet saw. After all, it's a 1 1/2 HP (maybe 1 3/4 HP) saw, not 3 HP.

    The only drawbacks on mine were the short distance in front of the blade, bad miter gauge (which can be upgraded with any number of after market gauges). My saw, the original version, had a molded throat plate which never was perfectly level but I upgraded that with an after market plate.

    The newest Jobsite Pro has more depth in front of the blade, a better finish on the table, and a much better flat throat plate. I believe the miter gauge still sucks but, . .

    While this saw clearly isn't meant to be a clone of a cabinet saw, it is a great saw; maybe expensive, but still a great saw for my use. I have even considered selling mine and buying the new version of the Jobsite Saw just for the improvements.

  6. #6
    Thanks Randy. I'll look into this.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I seem to remember there may have been a similar conversation here not long ago. In the end, it comes down to the fence and as shouldn't be surprising, the higher end "jobsite" saws will have the best chance to provide that. But here's a thought....strip the PM2000 down and put the wings, etc., in storage after preparing them to resist rust. Make or buy narrow rip rails. Put it on a simple mobile base if it's not already on it. You now have a smaller machine for your ripping that you know and trust that takes up about the same footprint as most, if not all of the higher quality jobsite saws. And since you still have all the parts to restore the cabinet saw to "full figure", when someday it needs to be pass on, everything will be there.
    Jim, do you think I could still use the Beis fence on it?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Arita View Post
    Jim, do you think I could still use the Beis fence on it?
    Yes, the actual fence should be useable...just consider making or buying na ew short-short front rail so you can preserve the originals. Biesemeyer (tee square) fence rails are pretty simple to fabricate from steel angle and 2x3 rectangular steel tube. I was actually going to do that for the PCS I had in my temporary shop to make the rails longer as a previous owner had cut it down significantly, but decided that the new slider would be the only table saw in the new shop.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
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    Mafell Erika85 might do it. I’ve been considering it for job site work since most job site saws are junky, but Mafell stuff is pretty good. It has a sliding table and also a double miter.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  10. #10
    Well, the Mafell is waaaaay over my budget, however I am looking very hard at the Sawstop Jobsite Pro. From what I understand, it's been out since '15, so I'm wondering if a new version is coming soon?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Arita View Post
    Well, the Mafell is waaaaay over my budget, however I am looking very hard at the Sawstop Jobsite Pro. From what I understand, it's been out since '15, so I'm wondering if a new version is coming soon?
    The current version of the Sawstop Jobsite Pro is the updated version which came out around a year (maybe 2) ago. I have the original which was first available in 2015. The current version, the Pro (as the first one wasn't called Pro) has more distance in front of the blade, a better finish on the table (at least the ones I've seen in stores does), and has a better insert. I doubt Sawstop will come out with a new version for awhile, but you could call their support number and ask. I have always found Sawstop support to be responsive.

  12. #12
    Thanks Randy. Just what I needed to know.

  13. #13
    Join Date
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    +1 for the Saw Stop Jobsite pro. It is accurate and safe. I need the wheels so I can roll it out of my small shop for longer rips. I have been very happy and will keep until I have a shop big enough to dedicate a fixed spot for a TS.

  14. #14
    I’m about to pull the trigger on the SS Jobsite Pro too, I keep reading conflicting things about the fence accuracy, it moving when it locks - can either of you weigh in?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry pepper View Post
    I’m about to pull the trigger on the SS Jobsite Pro too, I keep reading conflicting things about the fence accuracy, it moving when it locks - can either of you weigh in?
    I don't use mine all that much but like the fence and have not had any movement issues.

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