I hook up my trailer once a week or so and sometimes it takes me way too long! So last time I unhooked I put a block behind the left rear tire and today got it on the first try!
IMG_20220816_132204.jpg
[OP]
Contributor
I hook up my trailer once a week or so and sometimes it takes me way too long! So last time I unhooked I put a block behind the left rear tire and today got it on the first try!
IMG_20220816_132204.jpg
Moderator
All of my tow vehicles have had backup cameras since 2005, and that makes hooking up a trailer a "one shot" thing almost every time unless there is extremely unfavorable sun glare. Since you seem to tow frequently, consider adding one to your vehicle if it doesn't have the feature...it kicks safety up big time, too, for just normal back up operations.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Contributor
Wheel on trailer or car, why.
Bill D
Moderator
Clearly from the photo, it's the tow vehicle. He's using the block of wood as an indicator that he's at "that spot".Originally Posted by Bill Dufour
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Contributor
Same idea as a tennis ball on a string. I thought that was a truck wheel but it could be a big camping trailer. A painted line would also work. and less likely to get kicked off.
Bill D
Contributor
This wasn't a bad option before backup cameras but as Jim says with a camera it is a cinch.
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...95814634&psc=1
Moderator
Nice. I wish I could do that. But I usually park the trailer in tight spots, on hills, rough ground, across shallow ditches etc. If I can’t hit the center of block on the first try the block/chock skids on the gravel or grass. No backup camera and most of the big trailers are so heavy there is no “bumping” to align them - I have to get within 3/8” or so. (Fortunately the big gooseneck trailers have a nice conical alignment feature.) Over the years i’ve gotten better at aligning with just a few tries, judging from a stone or leaf on the ground with the door open, to see when i’ve backed 6” or whatever. The few times having a helper are nice. I’ve thought of devising a mirror to clip on the tailgate. I know, get a truck for each trailer and never disconnect them!
Contributor
I have some guides similar to these:
(note these ones will extend to almost 4' long!)
tguides.jpg
These work great-- however, I like mine better because the rods are 'pliable' aluminum and attached to the magnets on a swivel (bend & swivel to adjust any way I want), and instead of tennis balls the rods have a 16" or so long red plastic sleeve that slides over the tops of the rods. Bump the rods together and you're home!
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ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
FOUR - CO2 lasers
THREE- make that FOUR now
ONE - vinyl cutter
CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle
Moderator
That seems like a good idea. I'd have to make them pretty long to go from the hitch to where I could see them above the tailgate, about 45" for my diesel truck.I have some guides similar to these:
(note these ones will extend to almost 4' long!)
tguides.jpg
These work great-- however, I like mine better because the rods are 'pliable' aluminum and attached to the magnets on a swivel (bend & swivel to adjust any way I want), and instead of tennis balls the rods have a 16" or so long red plastic sleeve that slides over the tops of the rods. Bump the rods together and you're home!
However I can see a potential problem with the vertical indicators around the farm here - if the truck and trailer wheels are not on the same plane, angled either sideways or front to back (or both), seems like the indicators wouldn't line up properly. Often I'm hitching up with both the truck and trailer in rough areas. But they might work well on pavement or smooth ground.
I suspect an aftermarket backup camera mounted on the tailgate with a magnet with a monitor in the cab would be better for my situation. I recently mounted one high on the back of my tracked skid steer so I wouldn't back into a tree (or person). The visibility out the back from the seat is worse than abysmal on that thing.
I think I'll order another camera/monitor and try it. The one I use now is excellent and was only about $40. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071D5CN9D
JKJ
[OP]
Contributor
I don't park the trailer in the exact same spot every time, so putting the wood block behind the LR truck wheel(where I can see it in my mirror) before I unhook gives me a visual next time.
Last edited by Bradley Gray; 08-18-2022 at 7:42 AM.
Contributor
Several years back, I bought one of those two wheel trailer dollies. Now instead of backing to trailer, I pull trailer to where the vehicle is. It's just a matter to transferring hitch from dolly to ball.
Moderator
Yikes, it must be a relatively small trailer or maybe you're the incredible hulk's brother! I have two small trailers I could move by hand but no way for the rest. The dual axle dump trailer is over 2 tons empty and the two big flatbeds close to 4 tons each.
I want to do what I saw at the Kubota dealer - he cut a hole near the end of one of the forks to fit a ball then moves trailers with the forks on a tractor or skid steer. Lots of times I just need to move them - doing it without having to hitch to the truck first would be easier.
Moderator
John, there are lots of ways to use a tractor to move a trailer...a hitch receiver can be mounted, temporarily or permanently in many different places. A simple drilled hole in the center of the bucket can take a ball if need be. I have a 3-point mount hitch receiver that I bought when we had our horse trailer...I probably should sell it since i never take off the backhoe anymore. A bucket mounted clamp-on hitch receiver is probably a better option for me at this point. if I decide I want one and can find/make one. My small utility trailer is easy to move around in most cases as I never park it where I can't get my Ascent to it or that I can't "creatively drag" it with a tooth on the FEL toothbar grasping and lifting the hitch on the front of the trailer and dragging/pushing it slowing and carefully.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Moderator
Yes, i move (and haul heavy loads in the dump trailer) with a ball on a drawbar, but that requires removing any attachment which sometimes I don’t want to do. (trivial to hitch up since I can see the ball from the seat!)
The drawbar is too low to the ground to move a gooseneck trailer but the forks will work. I’m not interested in drilling a hole in the bucket but if I weld up a clamp-on hitch i’ll make one for you too. I also have the hitch bar that fits on the 3-pt arms.
I sometimes move a big trailer by simply hooking the gooseneck with the tilted-up tractor bucket, the last time to pull one up a sopping wet hill in the pasture where the 4wd truck couldn’t get traction. I’ve also moved trailers by means of a chain and the grab hooks welded on the top rop of the bucket. Moved on a little with a strap on the excavator bucket too.
As you said, lots of ways to move even a very heavy trailer. Fewer ways for a lazy guy in a hurry!
Contributor
Neither of the gooseneck trailers will budge a bit, even to slide down over a ball that's offcenter by over 1/2". I move them sometimes with just the tractor bucket. Just put the bucket under the gooseneck hitch, and lift. It might slide around a little bit, but they're so heavy they're not going to do a lot of sliding around in the bucket.
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