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Thread: Building a staircase at the shop

  1. #1

    Building a staircase at the shop

    I am down to my last item on the checklist before final inspection for the certificate of occupancy, finishing the stairs and handrail to the upstairs bedroom. I have been cogitating on this since 2019 but work commenced in earnest this week. I want something with mortise and tenon joinery in the style of the timber frame.

    Here is the stairway in its construction site livery. The goal for its upgrade is code compliance, confidence inspiring solidity, and expeditious completion.
    6E94AB8E-C5D2-478E-9875-EDCB669BAFDA.jpg9B556A65-9DE6-4A05-A79D-A6C02FBBED3E.jpg
    The first step is to turn 10 ft 2x12’s in into 5 ft 6x6’s.
    BA8B1A22-2828-4E36-907E-0A83F4024134.jpg7AC889D3-4F57-4008-9B90-6714AB8FCBD9.jpg3EFFD480-208A-48E2-A9C3-9C99997B56B9.jpg
    The first mock-up
    4055F55C-43C5-4559-9B29-31EC13F733C9.jpg
    More to come.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,842
    Nothing like a "simple" last operation for the end of a major project. LOL

    I agree with making the stairway look like it belongs in a timber frame structure, either by using wood in the way I believe you are going to do or by embracing "industrial" with steel. 'Looking forward to how this progresses!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Nothing like a "simple" last operation for the end of a major project. LOL

    I agree with making the stairway look like it belongs in a timber frame structure, either by using wood in the way I believe you are going to do or by embracing "industrial" with steel. 'Looking forward to how this progresses!
    To your point, no sissy commercial stair components are to be used. I have a big ole pile of rough-sawn, air-dried white oak that expected to spent the rest of its life as floor boards in horse trailers or in barns. I have to turn it into trim boards and handrail parts with that character retained.

    I have some sketches of the handrail but they are too crude to show just yet. I will have some down time while glue is drying today to clean them up. Drawing makes me figure out the details. I also have to decide between real mortise and tenons, loose tenons, dominoes, screws, or nails for the joinery. Some of each I expect.

  4. #4
    I been starting other threads and responding to them and those are fun but this one is important. I need to focus time and mental energy on this project. Over the last few days, while measuring slop in miter gauges and leakage in blast gates, I also glued up the three newel posts and planed them square and to size. Not a huge accomplishment but definitely a workout. The three posts resting together look like a good start on a Rouba bench.

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    Today, I moved tools and boxes around so that I could mill the longest stair parts. Some of these will be 12 ft long. My New Year’s Resolution for next year is to arrange tools so that I can finish a project without moving a big tool. The only tool that does not have a permanent home is the Dewalt Sliding Compound Miter Saw. It is also the only big tool not on wheels. That pretty much sets a plan for 2023.

    The long parts are the skirt boards (which go vertically on either side of the treads), the top board for the short wall, trim board for opposite side of short wall, and the handrails. The skirt boards are 3/4”x12” by 10 ft long plus some extra for fitting in the corners. The top board is 3/4” x 5 1/2” by 12 feet total length. It will be pieced. The trim board is 1”x4” by 20 ft, also pieced. The handrails are a T shaped with a 2 1/4” x 1 5/8 top grip and 1 5/8” x 3 1/4” vertical rail joined by a dado plowed into in the top grip. (Pictures to follow). I write the dimensions here for my own thought process and planning. Please just skim to the next picture.

    I have selected my straightest flattest material and have begun milling. I will mill (3) 4/4 x 8” by 10 ft boards into the two skirt boards. I will rip 8” boards in half so I can joint on my 6” jointer and then plane them. I will use biscuits for alignment and glue them back together to final dimension.

    The first board was nearly straight except for 1/4” warp at one end. I marked a straight line using my track saw track and planed it down (Neanderthals take note) with a jack plane and edge guide.

    Here you go.
    6F4C1256-B0AE-407F-B52D-8DEA17208653.jpg5F041BD3-2F1A-4004-86F8-BC05C3EA78EC.jpg
    It was fun and good exercise but made me glad I have Harvest Gold power tools for most of the milling labor.
    Last edited by Thomas Wilson; 08-16-2022 at 10:30 PM.

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