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Thread: WorkSharp - going from disk to stones

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    Perth, Australia
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    I was hitting the *heel* of the primary, not honing a microbevel.
    The angle setter on the WS is clearly different from that of your honing guide (which sounds like it may be the Veritas). I trust the Veritas far more than the WS. Check the angle of the primary bevel after the WS.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  2. #17
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    Feb 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monte Milanuk View Post
    Derek, I don't think you're quite understanding what I'm saying. I was trying to go from say, 25 degree primary on the WorkSharp, to a +2 degree secendary bevel (~27 degrees) on the stones... but finding that if anything, I was hitting the *heel* of the primary, not honing a microbevel. When I adjusted the cam back to what should have been 25 degrees, the problem was exacerbated. So no, I don't want to hone the secondary bevel at the same angle as the primary bevel... but it irritates the ever-loving crap out of me that 25 degrees isn't 25 degrees, period.

    I've made it work in the interim by re-setting the stop on the honing guide to 30 degrees, and just leaving the roller cam adjustment alone. Currently going from the 1200 grit CBN disk on the WorkSharp @ 25 degree primary bevel, to a DMT 8000 grit diamond plate to hone a secondary bevel @ 30 degrees, followed by stropping with green compound. Seems to work, in terms of getting hair-shaving sharp. Still irritates me that it's not working the way I *expect* it to, though.



    Simple solution... don't use the chisel port. Or replace the original 400 grit paper on the port with something finer.
    Actually the simpler solution was to sell my Worksharp and start hand sharpening. I bought a great sharpening guide from Lie Nielsen and some coarse diamond plates. I already had fine Shapton stones. My chisels are immeasurably sharper and, with the Lie Nielsen guide and their suggested guide for setting specific angles, my life is much simpler. I never found the Worksharp to be quite the single answer that is marketed. Sharpening always involved more than one process and these processes aren't always compatible. So, hand sharpening gives me better results and the process is simpler.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
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    Wenatchee, WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    The angle setter on the WS is clearly different from that of your honing guide
    The angle setter on the WS was never part of the equation - it doesn't fit plane irons easily or well.

  4. #19
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    Jun 2003
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    Wenatchee, WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Heinemann View Post
    Actually the simpler solution was to sell my Worksharp and start hand sharpening. I bought a great sharpening guide from Lie Nielsen and some coarse diamond plates. I already had fine Shapton stones. My chisels are immeasurably sharper and, with the Lie Nielsen guide and their suggested guide for setting specific angles, my life is much simpler.
    I'd gone kind of a similar route... scary sharp, then the WorkSharp, then moved away to diamond plates/stropping... but I'm still at the point in my 'journey' where I'm getting in new (to me) tools from time to time that need the primary bevel reground, or existing tools that need the primary bevel changed and/or 'fixed' for whatever perceived reason. Doing that by hand, on a coarse diamond plate or water stone... I've done it enough times to be over it. Electrons for the win when it comes to grinding, as far as I'm concerned. Free-hand (no jig) sharpening is on my to-do list, but nowhere near the top.


    I never found the Worksharp to be quite the single answer that is marketed. Sharpening always involved more than one process and these processes aren't always compatible. So, hand sharpening gives me better results and the process is simpler.
    On that, I would mostly agree. As long as I was willing to stay within the original envelope of sandpaper on glass disks, it worked pretty well. The edge from the 6k grit wheel is pretty sharp to most people who aren't hand-tool/edge geeks So the marketing wasn't so much "wrong", as we just expect "more".

  5. #20
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    Mar 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monte Milanuk View Post
    I get that... and that's generally what I want to do, too.

    But am I being unrealistic, expecting the bevel angle should remain the same from one surface (the WorkSharp wide-blade platform) to the the other (diamond plate, water stone, etc.)?

    I fully intend to change it, for the sake of honing a secondary microbevel, as you mention. But I want it to be under *my* control - not just something that 'happens' by dint of moving from one surface to another.
    You are correct that the change in abrasive causes a change in thickness and therefor the blade to abrasive intersection. I tend to use the wide blade platform and use the same jig / setting when I move to diamond stones. I use the built in micro bevel do-funny on the Veritas MK-II between WS3K and stones.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Northern Illinois
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    For chisels, I don't see any good reason to change the primary bevel. Just put a secondary bevel on the tool that meets your needs. I tend to make all my chisels the same grind, although occasionally do change one. The same applies to plane blades; no real good reason to change the primary bevel. Just pick a common secondary bevel and hand sharpen/hone to that. Polishing the backs is possibly a different matter. However, I still have found that the only way to polish the back of a chisel or hand plane blade is by hand. Sometimes it takes awhile to make the back perfectly flat, but it's worth it in the end. I found that transitioning from the Worksharp to stones just never worked well. I'm not sure what else you sharpen but, for me, chisels and plane blades are it. My turning tools I sharpen on my Tormet or for a couple of hollowing tools, just by hand without a jig using a diamond handheld card-types. My life is simpler without the Worksharp.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Atlanta
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    1,592
    I think the WS is really meant for the quick and dirty (good enough) crowd like onsite carpenters or those that just want sharp edges quickly.

    One look at it should tell you it's not meant for the same micro honing .5 deg. triple bevel samurai crowd that buys their waterstone holders from Veritas or woodpecker and inspects their work at every step with an electron microscope. By the time those guys have taken the lids off their ponds, the WS man has already touched up his chisel and is back making chips or shavings. And is just as happy.

    We should prob. feel sorry for the Tormek guy

  8. #23
    off a wheel gives a hollow grind. Then rest that on whatever you use to sharpen and it rests on the two high points. Hone that side and back. when you are getting dull hone the same way till you work back and eventually the hollow grind is gone. Then grind again. Ive done oil water and now prefer stick on auto body sandpaper. I dont want a honing gizmo, if im on site somewhere and need a sharp chisel dont want to be crippled from what I dont have. Dont like working on site anyway. Shop has five ways to do anything.

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