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Thread: Woodmaster Drum sander

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Stratford, TX
    Posts
    18

    Woodmaster Drum sander

    Went to use the w-3820 drum sander at the local shop today and the raise and lower mechanism is super tight. It feels like one of the 4 corner screws is galded, but they all look ok.

    Is that machine prone to binding up on the raise/lower chain drive?

    I looked for an operator manual on it to make sure I’m not missing something easy, but can’t seem to find one online.

    does anyone have any tips or advice?

    thanks,
    howard

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Piercefield, NY
    Posts
    1,638
    Just as a general principle I would suggest looking at the chain to see if it is dried out and sticking.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Stratford, TX
    Posts
    18
    Ok - thanks, Zachary.

    Yes - I took the chain loose and it’s fine. All 4 screws seem pretty tight when trying to move each individually. I’ve oiled each screw nut and bottom bushing and no improvement.

    But altogether from the adjustment handle - it’s just flat locked up for all practical purposes.

    I’ve used it a couple of years ago with no issue - but guess I’ll just wait til the shop manager gets back.

    Does Woodmastet not publish parts or user manuals anywhere for these drum sanders??

    Howard

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Piercefield, NY
    Posts
    1,638
    I had a woodmaster 718 combo that I bought used and was happy when I sold it. It was a sorry excuse for a planer, though I didn't try it as a sander. I don't know if there's much support from the company. The stickiness has to be somewhere in the mechanism, or else it's cumulative from a lot of little sticky places. Is the head sticking on the rods or whatever it slides up and down on? I have an old DeWalt 733 planer that is easy to adjust the height when it's running but one corner sticks on the rod when it's turned off. I think the vibration helps it not to stick somehow.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    southeast Michigan
    Posts
    676
    Hello Howard, I can't speak to your problem but I do have the 26 inch model and haven't had any problems with it even though it can go months without getting used. When I purchased it I asked if they could email me a pdf of the manual to get familiar with it before it arrived. The 51 page pdf they sent me covers the 26, 38 and 50 inch models. If you PM me I will send you a copy.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Stratford, TX
    Posts
    18
    Hi John -

    thanks for the offer, but I can’t seem to find the trick of how to send a private message. I don’t know if I have to have a certain number of posts or what…




    thanks a lot!
    howard
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 08-17-2022 at 10:03 AM. Reason: removed email address. PM requires Contributor status. $6 per year. Click Donate above.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Stratford, TX
    Posts
    18
    In case it helps anyone, the shop director who has say-so over repairs got back today and said those nuts are bad about galding internally. The screws are good metal, but he’s had to replace the nuts inside the cast brackets twice already.


    howard

  8. #8
    Try switching to stainless nuts (or if they're already stainless, some zinc plated steel ones). Galling is most likely to happen when you have two of the same metals in contact.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    southeast Michigan
    Posts
    676
    Howard, I just noticed that you have the free "member" status. I think you might have to be a "contributor" to send/receive private messages. The cost is only $6/year which probably the best bargain you can find today for the wealth of information on this forum.

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