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Thread: Work in progress: shop doors

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Cedar Park, TX - Boulder Creek, CA
    Posts
    832
    Over engineering? Oh, don't get me started ;-)

    Sound isolation walls are built with staggered studs, and insulation not making contact with both faces. No direct path of noise transmission. I have no idea if they're efficient with all types of noise, or not. Maybe better for impulses than higher frequency ssound?

    The other thing I stumbled across with a tiny house project is, they make thinner insulation for interior walls. Specifically to NOT couple one face to the other.

    So maybe the Zip system panels wouldn't be the way to go. Same goes for all the web blocks tying the faces together. But man, staggering all that to avoid coupling sounds like a nightmare.

    As for the weight of an 80" door, you 'just need an outboard wheel to support it. Likely the pad, if there even is one, outside garage doors would be sloped for drainage. So ...

    The wheel needs to float, maybe spring loaded. Or an air cylinder ....

    Sorry .... ;-)

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    There actually are hinges available for heavy carriage type doors that eliminates the need for support via a wheel...they are not "chump change" to buy, however, and are "very stout" products. If you want them in stainless, you better have won the lottery first!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Cedar Park, TX - Boulder Creek, CA
    Posts
    832
    Don't forget the structure to support them.

  4. #19
    Once I pull my garage down with a 8' unsupported door (16' span overall, but I can use two), then I get to rebuild it. With walls that are 2' higher (8' even? Sob), trusses, storage in the roof, probably dig out a couple of basements for more storage ...

    Why am I doing this again?

  5. #20
    It's the weekend again, which means I got a little time to work on this. Most of it was spent with friends over, but hey ... I'm not complaining. And I'm going to need those friends to help me disassemble the old garage doors!

    This post is mostly going to be about jigs and things, so feel free to skip it. Hopefully it'll help someone out though.

    First up: locating hinges. Hinges are kind of annoying because, assuming you're doing recessed pockets, the alignment has to be nearly perfect between the door and the frame. I'm also working with an existing frame, so I can't just cut both at once. Measuring this would be hard - first, a tape isn't very repeatedly accurate, and it'll be hard to measure the garage door frame from the ground. Instead, we use a "story stick". It's literally a stick (well, straight offcut piece of oak) that I mark my dimensions on. Then I can just reuse the stick to locate everything. When I use it on the frame I'll tuck a small shim underneath so the door doesn't scrape. I can transfer the hinge locations from the stick to the side of the door. Not-so-pro tip: also mark which side the hinge goes on so you don't recess the wrong side...

    IMG_3920.jpgIMG_3919.jpgIMG_3918.jpg

    Now for the hinge. This is another trick I picked up - a pattern bit (bearing on the top) following a jig that's the size of the hinge. First, mark the width on some scrap plywood:
    IMG_3923.jpgIMG_3922.jpg

    Then cut more pieces to make a U shape and glue them together:
    IMG_3924.jpg

    While that's drying, set up the router. The bit has the cutter and then the bearing (pattern bit), rather than the bearing at the end like I used to cut out the windows. Just set the depth to the thickness of the jig plus the thickness of the hinge. Plus a tiny little bit because I'm bad at this:

    IMG_3926.jpgIMG_3928.jpg

    And there's a limit to the number of pictures, so routing comes next!

  6. #21
    One more piece for the hinge jig: a fence to register against the edge of the door. Since I had some scrap 1/2" ply, I just used the rest of it.
    IMG_3929.jpg
    With my oh-so-fancy jig ready, follow the hinge marks for placement. I used a pin nailer to hold it in place:
    IMG_3930.jpg
    And literally follow the lines:
    IMG_3932.jpg
    Anyone with experience with hinges knows what comes next. This is why we have rounded corners on hinges, but the ones I got from McMaster are square.
    IMG_3933.jpg

    No problem, a quick bit of work with a chisel cleans the corners. I feel bad for the chisel; it's made for wood, not plywood, but the corners are tiny.
    IMG_3935.jpg
    Now for the screws. I used to try and do these by hand, but a self-centering drill bit makes this trivial. Drill the holes, deepen with a smaller diameter bit, and drop in the screws.

    IMG_3936.jpgIMG_3937.jpg

    One more step - and I'll just leave this pic here until I know if it actually works.
    IMG_3939.jpg

  7. #22
    There's a moment in any project where you wonder if it's all going to work. Amazingly, this one actually worked. Spoilers!

    Next up: hinge pockets in the door frame. The same as the hinge pockets in the door, just vertical and attached to a structure.IMG_3943.jpgIMG_3944.jpg

    Amazingly, the hinges actually lined up! With one mistake - about 1/16" on the lower pocket where I didn't eyeball the mark straight on. Lesson learned, parallax sucks. The trim looks to be redwood, which makes sense (I live in California) but is surprising - redwood on a garage? Huh.

    IMG_3945.jpg

    And it fits! Almost. I knew there was no chance the frame was actually square, and the top inner corner rubs. It's only about an eighth of an inch, which I can plane down and repaint. I think I got off lucky on this one.

    IMG_3946.jpgIMG_3948.jpg

    With that done, now for the other side ... same ol, same ol. Despite measuring both sets of hinges from the top, the right side is about an eighth lower than the left ... amazingly good for framing.
    IMG_3947.jpgIMG_3949.jpg

    Now the fun begins - removing the old garage door.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    Those doors are going to look SO good when your project is completed. Really transformational!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #24
    The things you find about the previous owners. When we looked at old pictures of the house the garage doors were almost a barn door red, matching the doors to the house. When we bought it? White. Okay, sure, no problem, someone repainted.

    ... except when I removed the weatherstripping around the doors there's a red strip. So yes, they painted, but they didn't pull the weatherstripping first, they just sprayed everything. Ugh. I don't know why I'm surprised, they did that inside too. Walls? White. Wood trim? White. Double hung windows and all the window hardware? White...

  10. #25
    It's been a few weeks but they're basically done. I made a mess of silicone caulk that I need to get after with a razor blade, but mostly it's done. Almost.

    So, pics! Just turn your head sideways to see them, I guess.

    IMG_3972.jpgIMG_3970.jpg

    Now to do four more. Sigh.

    Oh, and the mystery strips across the back. Not so mystery - they're an experiment on french cleats for storage. I was worried that the door swing would jog the hanger loose so did a makeshift sliding dovetail. I don't think I'll keep that for the rest, though, since just the top is sufficient - 45 degrees on 3/4" ply is a lot of bearing surface.

    IMG_3994.jpgIMG_3995.jpgIMG_3996.jpg

    Anyone want a garage door?
    IMG_3973.jpg

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    Very nice!

    BTW, one small screw at the bottom of whatever is on the cleats, such as into a bottom spacer or the cleat, itself, will keep it from lifting without making it arduous to move something.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #27
    Yeah - for future people, don't do the sliding dovetail approach. I ended up having to have about 1/8" of slop so that I could move anything and even so had to be super careful. Overthinking as usual!

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