Stair tread finish suggestions needed, also assembly question

[John Pariseau]

I have a set of stairs I've built for a loft and hadn't given enough thought to the final finish. The stringers are solid with 1/4" pockets that accept 2" thick treads.

I am looking for a crystal clear finish - and have sort of settled on this stuff:

Varathane Interior Water-Base Matte Crystal Clear Wood Floor Finish Polyurethane

However, I'm unsure if that's the right product, or if there is something better? The one concern I have is slipping - I've seen Osmo Polyx Anti-Slip as a recommended finish due to the anti-slip properties, but I would like to avoid yellowing (I realize the wood will yellow/darken over time, but would prefer that the finish doesn't contribute to this). I could also put down grip tape, but that's a measure of last resort.

The other question I have... do I prefinish or finish once they are installed? I've already routed the pockets and if I pre-finish the treads, if the coating is too thick it will prevent the boards from going into their pockets. I know pre-finishing will make the final finishing step easier - do I carefully sand the edges where my tread fits in, or is this a case where finishing after will be easier (in a twisted sort of way)?

Thanks!

John

[roger wiegand]

It's very hard to beat Bona Traffic HD as a floor finish. Downside is that is double or triple the price per gallon of the Varathane product, but it will also last at least that much longer. I don't enjoy refinishing floors, so I value that.

Probably a toss-up on pre or post finishing. I'd do it after installation so I wouldn't have to worry about dinging the finish.

[John Pariseau]

It's very hard to beat Bona Traffic HD as a floor finish. Downside is that is double or triple the price per gallon of the Varathane product, but it will also last at least that much longer. I don't enjoy refinishing floors, so I value that.

Probably a toss-up on pre or post finishing. I'd do it after installation so I wouldn't have to worry about dinging the finish.

I watched the videos of that stuff being installed - would be too messy (I need to finish all sides of the steps, stringers as they are open with a bar between steps - no riser). Also... these will be used a few times a week - maybe even twice a day (once up, once down). They will be used while wearing shoes, and I expect sawdust and grit will be on my shoes.

I wish there was a wipe-on method - the bottoms of the steps are going to be a pain on the lower steps.

IMHO, I would prefer post-install finishing. I can use a ladder to get to the loft while I do the finishing.

[roger wiegand]

When I refinished the stairs in our house I just put it on with a 3" brush. Had to work quickly, but it came out fine. It sets very quickly once it's applied-- you need to get it down and move on, no going back to re-touch things.

Missed the need to finish the under-side. In that case I'd put the first two coats on prior to installation, and then just do the third coat on the visible/accessible surfaces post installation.

It's the finish on my shop floor, as well as in the house. Remarkably robust.

[Tom M King]

I agree with everything Roger said. You don't have to flood it on. That's just for speed and ease of a big floor.

Something even more durable than Traffic, and actually looks almost like nothing is on the wood but is tough enough for hotel lobby floors, is Bona Naturale. It doesn't need any other undercoat material either. It's low VOC, but I would still suggest open air finishing because it is an Acid Cure Urethane, even though water bourne, and I don't want to breathe any in. You could prefinish with the Naturale, and not worry about it being too fragile to prefinish.

I have used Naturale as a base under Traffic HD when I wanted more gloss, but maximum durability. I think Naturale is only available in matt. It looks like nothing is on Oak, but does bring out a little color on Pine.

Naturale is also not a high build finish like Traffic, so coating the treads all around won't give you enough of an interference fit to matter.

[John Pariseau]

The finish arrived - going to do a test coat tonight after work, and provided it works out, take tomorrow off and get everything coated (two coats). I'm pretty sure a gallon is sufficient.

[John Pariseau]

I put two coats on of the Bona Naturale and - yes - it looks like there is no coating. The grain raised, gave it a light sand. I'm not going to test a third coat - I think I'll just spend all day Sunday applying this stuff and do three coats if I can, sanding between each coat.

My only question/concern - since it is so thin, how does it protect the wood? I love the matte finish, but, erm, how do I know it's going to hold up? I'm so used to seeing super thick coatings on floors...

[Tom M King]

It's tough stuff.

Just curious, mixing small batches, how are you measuring the activator? I have mixed it by weight, but it's been so long ago I forget the math I did.

I always thought it was interesting that they say you can do invisible repairs to it, but I've never done any. No reason not to believe them though.

[John Pariseau]

Just curious, mixing small batches, how are you measuring the activator? I have mixed it by weight, but it's been so long ago I forget the math I did.

The jug says mix to a ratio of 10:1 - and that's what I did. I measured 500ml of finish, and 50ml of hardener, then used a small screw-top jar to mix it together. It didn't say by weight, so I assumed volume.

I ended up repeating this three times:

hand sand (220 grit), tack cloth, coat

with 4 or more hours between each coat.

After the first coat the grain raised considerably, second coat not quite as much, and if it raised on the third coat it isn't discernible (and any texture added is somewhat desirable).

And as you said - my steps fit into their pockets as the layers didn't build up much.

As excited as I am about assembling the stairs, I am going to let it have the full 7-day cure (in the interim I have plenty of other things to do).

[Tom M King]

Sounds good. I hope you can post pictures.

[John Pariseau]

Sounds good. I hope you can post pictures.

Will do when done! Might be a while, unfortunately. Here's a "boring" picture of how I kept the treads from touching:

IMG_1369.jpg

Two screws on the wider site, one on the shorter - used inexpensive clips to keep them apart.