just curious - has anyone done veneering with gorilla glue? i normally use unibond 800, but i'm just curious if gorilla couldn't be an easier approach in some circumstances.
who's tried it?
---dz
[OP]
Contributor
just curious - has anyone done veneering with gorilla glue? i normally use unibond 800, but i'm just curious if gorilla couldn't be an easier approach in some circumstances.
who's tried it?
---dz
Member
Assuming you mean the polyurethane version, it is the last thing I'd think to reach for.
Then, I saw this:
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2016...-my-go-to-glue
Scroll down and open the full article for his approach/tips on veneering with it. I just may try it soon...
jeff
Contributor
The properties of PU glues like Gorilla Glue are right in line for veneer applications.
John
Contributor
First concern would be adequate moisture to kick off the adhesive without expanding the veneer. Especially if multiple sheets are laid up. Excessive moisture could result in open seams when it dries. It will also take extreme film thickness control as excess foam will really make a mess inside a vacuum bag. Absolutely not an option in my shop. What properties make it sound appealing to you?
Contributor
I think it has a lot going for it, and use it often, with great results for many years now. It's especially good for doing many panels at once in a bag with shop sawn veneer, which if water based glue starts to work on , can become a potato chip mess quickly. I use it in some applications for veneering only one side. I know, not supposed to do that, but the introduced water stress from a water based glue is one of the main reasons one sided veneering creates problems.
You can spread it out as thin as you can imagine. I use a thin piece of wood like a scraper for spreading it. Low on the noxious scale, readily available, reasonable clamp time and open time both. It's a bit of a well kept secret. It's also great for frame in panel assemblies that need to slide into place during clamp up. First it's a lubricant, and then it's a glue. Can combine with PVA for the frame joinery for faster clamp turnover.... Craig Thibodeau is a pretty good endorsement too!
Contributor
One part product - no mixing, good open time, low creep, MUCH higher strength at 150 F than yellow glues, and it's completely waterproof. I've used it on several MDF skins on ladder back door frames. Dispense out of the bottle on the frame, spritz the MDF with water, press. Why is the strength at 150F important? It's not, unless you make exterior doors exposed to the sun. Then it's really important.Originally Posted by Richard Coers
John
[OP]
Contributor
john, you nailed it.
i've not tried it, but i'm about to do a big job and was thinking about the "overhead" of using the urea resin, and just got curious. it does seem compelling. i'm doing wood veneer on MDF, and i think i could "spritz" the MDF prior to applying the glue, imparting enough water. spritzing the veneer isn't going to happen, so let's hope there's enough moisture in it naturally. i use a press, so i'm not worried about the mess (at all). if my press can handle epoxy, it can handle polyurethane. anyway, this is interesting feedback, and i think i'll run a test. it sounds as though others find success with it.
-- dz
Contributor
I think it's worth trying. The squeeze-out may make a mess but I always wax the bottom platen and use a poly cover sheet to protect the press membrane.
[OP]
Contributor
yeah kevin i have a piece of waxed laminate at the bottom of my press, and then use laminate, or taped cauls on the top side. the pieces get covered with a piece of 30mm clear vinyl, and that's pressed by the poly press top. even if i get squeeze-out, it has really nowhere to go where it could cause damage.
i'll try it and report back!
-- dz
[OP]
Contributor
i'm most interested to see how bleed-through works. that's my biggest concern. that, and cleanup from spreading it.
Contributor
I'll be interested in your experience. Spreadability (seems to be high viscosity), shelf life after opening (short in my limited experience) need for additional moisture, amount of squeeze-out /cleanup, etc. Could be a good thing. Costs similar to marine epoxy. I try to keep things simple so I have Titebond Extend, Titebond 2 and epoxy on hand, all w/ long shelf life, but if polyurethane gives a waterproof, heat resistant bond with low bleed-through and good workability it could find a place in my shop.
[OP]
Contributor
i'm veneering tomorrow, so i'll try it. agreed on your concerns, same ones i had. i'm thinking that for spreading, i won't use my roller - too hard to clean - maybe the small notched trowel, but that might leave too much glue. we'll see.
There is enough moisture in the air, wood and substrate to trigger the reaction. Adding moisture to wood just causes excess foaming. If you you want to test this. Place a drop on a piece of glass. The glue will cure just sitting in the open air.
I made a bunch of torsion box platforms for a church display gluing 1/4" plywood to a frame with the interior void filled with 1" foam insulation. I spread the glue with a plastic Bondo spreader. It allowed me to make thin glue layers and then cleaned up easily after the glue set up.
Last edited by Lee Schierer; 07-29-2022 at 6:44 AM.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
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Contributor
I use it with out wetting to glue Formica to projects that are small enough to be clamped and weighted. It works with out wetting if you are not in a hurry. I spread it with a Formica scrap, body putty spreader, or old credit card.
Best Regards, Maurice
Contributor
Anyway to increase the spreadability?
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