gorilla glue for veneering? anyone tried it?

[Kevin Jenness]

I believe the setting rate depends on available moisture. In a situation with low humidity or very low wood moisture content you may well want to add some water to the glueline. I haven't used Gorilla glue for a long time but I seem to recall that the package called for 10% mc - currently they suggest adding moisture to the mix. No doubt it will cure fine without added water in most situations but it is a factor to consider, especially if you are trying to cycle panels through the press quickly.

[John TenEyck]

I use a plastic autobody spreader and spread it as thin as possible while still getting a complete film. Squeeze out mess is a non-issue when it's that thin, a few bubbles here and there.
John

[Curt Harms]

I believe the setting rate depends on available moisture. In a situation with low humidity or very low wood moisture content you may well want to add some water to the glueline. I haven't used Gorilla glue for a long time but I seem to recall that the package called for 10% mc - currently they suggest adding moisture to the mix. No doubt it will cure fine without added water in most situations but it is a factor to consider, especially if you are trying to cycle panels through the press quickly.

I imagine the need to add moisture depends on where you are. If you're in high desert where relative humidity is 10% -15% or winter in a heated shop in a cold climate you'd probably need to add a little moisture. Anyone living east of the Mississippi during the 3 warmer seasons for example, probably not. More foam is not desirable, more foam = a weaker joint. I think Norm Abram on New Yankee Workshop gave bad advice on polyurethane glue.

[Roger Feeley]

Years ago, I used PU glue on a bent lamination for outdoors. Whoever built our house thought it would be cool to make one corner of our back patio a 6’ radius. I was replacing the pergola over the patio and decided to follow the curve. I made 6’ sections of redwood 2x6. I used PU for its lack of creep and it’s weather resistance. To make the structure more weather tight, I put 1/4” plywood over the “joists” and covered that with copper flashing. That protected the end grain of the posts too. It all worked out great.

When we sold the place, I left a spare section behind.

[Wes Grass]

Glad I read this. I've never had the least interest in using PU. All the articles I've read, with the wetting and foaming, were a complete turnoff. I've got a little goof-around project right now that could be a good candidate, but not sure it's a good idea for a first try. I'm still debating over TB vs epoxy.

[Mel Fulks]

Still not as fast as “hammer “ veneering . But hammer veneering is a skill ….not a bottled product .

[Richard Coers]

Glad I read this. I've never had the least interest in using PU. All the articles I've read, with the wetting and foaming, were a complete turnoff. I've got a little goof-around project right now that could be a good candidate, but not sure it's a good idea for a first try. I'm still debating over TB vs epoxy.

If you have a small project, buy the smallest bottle you can. That adhesive is famous for curing in the bottle and making the bottle a one time application.

[John TenEyck]

If you have a small project, buy the smallest bottle you can. That adhesive is famous for curing in the bottle and making the bottle a one time application.

It lasts a pretty long time if you put the bottle in a quart mason jar that has rice in the bottom. The rice absorbs the water in the air. Silica gel would likely work even better. I've had bottles last nearly a year. The same thing works for bottles of superglue.

John

[Tom Bender]

Very handy stuff for misc tasks.

Agree on the small bottles. Mine last a year or so after opening but I am careful to open, squirt and close. No open on the bench time.

To moisten a big surface you will want consistency and only a little moisture. Spritzing might not give you that. Maybe a paint roller would work well. You can test easily enough.