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Thread: How do you remove this sprocket

  1. #121
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,895
    Yeah, I've had a bad taste in my mouth over this whole endeavor. I spend a lot of money on 3 expensive Felder machines. Their tech support representatives, when my planer started having issues were unfamiliar with the machine, after waiting days for a call back. He had me replace the motor for about $500 with shipping, when all that was really necessary was replacing two fuses for about $5. Then after being quoted a crazy amount for them to get a tech to me in a timely fashion, it took 3 people to reinstall the replacement motor. And they would not take back the unnecessary expensive motor that they sold me.

    I've been seriously considering buying a Hammer edge sander (though no clue where I could fit it), but having real second thoughts here due to tech support. So sad. Their sales support a few years ago was fantastic.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  2. #122
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    7,254
    Blog Entries
    7
    It is not easy diagnosing an issue from a distance. We have the benefit of hindsight, but I could see why one might skip over the fuses.

    I spent a bunch of time one day chasing down in an issue with Omga chopsaw, The motor wouldn’t start but I had power at the motor (or so I thought). So I check the motor out, then start testing all of the capacitors in the phase converter for capacitance. After which I test the line, then scratch my head a bit
    and keep checking parts until I discover that the switch died and when a switch on an Omga dies it can just drop off one leg. I simply assumed a dead switch would be dead across all the terminals. A new switch got me back up and running but only after I tested every single item in the system.

    Now, if I called a tech I might say, hey I have power at the motor, motor must be dead and one could see that how the problem is presented might frame how one approaches solving it. A super experienced tech might know how the switch dies and presents that way.

    So, all that to say I think one can forgive a tech working at a distance for solving things imperfectly. They have two tools at their disposal, the customers ability to test and diagnose and the ability to throw parts at it. The customer is a woodworker, not a machine tech, so they’re working with imperfect information and the customer likely being frustrated by the issue.
    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 10-23-2022 at 11:36 AM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  3. #123
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Peshtigo,WI
    Posts
    1,395
    I'd cut that chain off, take it to an industrial supply house get the replacement chain with master link. Calibrate the machine by turning the rods and put the new chain on. I can't believe there's no master link in the chain.

    I know you had a nightmare of a time putting the new motor in with three sets of hands but trust me with a master link in the chain it's a one person job. The hardest part would be not letting the rods turn while putting the chain on.

    Wish you lived around the corner, I'd come and do it for you. Might cost a cold beverage though.
    Confidence: The feeling you experience before you fully understand the situation

  4. #124
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,895
    So messed around with shims. Not as easy to do as I thought, but doable.

    After shimming up the left side with 0.01" shims, the Oneway measured 0.0750" on the left side and 0.0660" on the right side from the table to the cutterhead. So the table was 0.009" lower on the left side.

    The resulting measurement in metric was 0.23 mm difference over 470mm width, or an error of 0.015mm over 300mm. More than the 0.01mm difference that Greg's reference said should be the maximum. FWIW.

    Running a board through it, the difference in the back of the board was 0.004" over 12" width on the front, and 0.009" across the back. Not sure why they should be different, but they were.

    Think I'm going to live with this for a while. Certainly not perfect by any measure, but considering the typical run change of my wide-belt sander routine is 0.01", it's probably just a single pass through the wide belt sander to fix it.

    Also put in the slow-blow fuses. Time will tell if they will fix the problem.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

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