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Thread: How do you remove this sprocket

  1. #46
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    I found it on McMaster-Carr, and supposedly it will be delivered on Wed. Obviously big box stores were a total zero for 5mmx20mm fuses. Ace Hardware too. Grainger was twice the price, and slower delivery.

    Forgot about Mouser. Nice hint. Thanks. They only have a few thousand in stock.
    Last edited by Alan Lightstone; 08-01-2022 at 8:53 PM.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  2. #47
    Recently my ancient lathe task light failed to turn on. After checking the bulb I jumped to the conclusion that the switch was bad and started to dismantle the fixture. Turned out I had accidentally turned off the power strip supplying the task light - a good reminder to check the basics before making unneeded repairs.

    When two motors on a machine fail to start the most likely cure is not replacing one of them, despite what some distant tech may conclude from an errant code. If that first tech had an overview of the situation he might not have gone down that blind alley. I hope new fuses fix your problem and the issue is not something deeper.

    If the chain and sprockets have gone out of sync, throwing off the planer bed/cutterhead alignment, it may be that there is an adjustment to be made at the bottom of the threaded support rods.
    Last edited by Kevin Jenness; 08-02-2022 at 4:13 AM.

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post
    Recently my ancient lathe task light failed to turn on. After checking the bulb I jumped to the conclusion that the switch was bad and started to dismantle the fixture. Turned out I had accidentally turned off the power strip supplying the task light - a good reminder to check the basics before making unneeded repairs.

    When two motors on a machine fail to start the most likely cure is not replacing one of them, despite what some distant tech may conclude from an errant code. If that first tech had an overview of the situation he might not have gone down that blind alley. I hope new fuses fix your problem and the issue is not something deeper.

    If the chain and sprockets have gone out of sync, throwing off the planer bed/cutterhead alignment, it may be that there is an adjustment to be made at the bottom of the threaded support rods.
    Interesting about an adjustment at the bottom of the threaded support rods. Of course, nothing mentioned in the manual (and clearly the tech was reading off a service manual when we spoke yesterday. The manual that the company says doesn't exist.)

    Once I get it working, I'll have to run through a few boards and see if they are the same thicknesses on all corners.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  4. #49
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    A bearing splitter or gear puller should to the trick.
    David

  5. #50
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    So, the fuses came today, as promised, from Mcmaster-Carr. Put them in, and the other motors started up.

    Calibration was a bit difficult. I thought it still wasn't working, as it ignored a bunch of commands for a few minutes. But eventually I got the lift motor to move, and was able to plane a piece, measure it to 0.01 inch, and type that calibrated position into the planer. Was still slightly off for a couple of tries, then sorted out.

    So, hopefully fixed. Of course, being charged almost $400 for a motor I didn't need, which involved an incredibly difficult installation really due to a tech support rep not asking the proper questions and just jumping to the conclusion that the motor needed to be replaced really was wrong. Felder definitely loses tech support points for this fiasco.

    The latest, knowledgeable rep called me again this morning to check on progress. The fuses hadn't arrived yet, so he said he'd call back tomorrow. He was a quality guy. The first two reps I spoke with - not so much.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  6. #51
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    So, sadly, the plot thickens more yet again. I ran a few boards through the planer today, and they don't come out parallel. When attaching the chain, some of the sprockets on the post must have turned on one side, while the others didn't. So the sprockets are not on the threads on the posts at the same height. Aaaarghhh!!!!!

    I'll call Felder tech support tomorrow, but considering just how difficult it was to install the motor / chain, I can't imagine doing it myself. Also, no way I'm spending $3300 for a tech, but may have to resort to their $500 fee to send a tech, who knows when, when they're in my area.

    All this for a repair that should have been two $3 fuses that their first tech misdiagnosed.

    Really loved the company until now....
    Last edited by Alan Lightstone; 08-21-2022 at 10:24 AM.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Lightstone View Post
    So, sadly, the plot thickens more yet again. I ran a few boards through the planer today, and they don't come out parallel. When attaching the chain, some of the sprockets on the post must have turned on one side, while the others didn't. So the sprockets are not on the threads on the posts at the same height. Aaaarghhh!!!!!
    ....
    Do you have precision measuring tools? I'd consider measuring carefully and adjusting the sprockets accordingly. If not, a local machine shop should be able to do it. When you get it right perhaps mark a line on the each one with a paint marker to indicate the registration in case this happens again in the future.

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    Do you have precision measuring tools? I'd consider measuring carefully and adjusting the sprockets accordingly. If not, a local machine shop should be able to do it. When you get it right perhaps mark a line on the each one with a paint marker to indicate the registration in case this happens again in the future.
    I can measure the boards to 0.001 thickness. I would think a repair would involve removing the chain again, and spinning all of the sprockets to a fixed point, like the top of the machine. Then putting back on the chain.

    But taking off the chain and reinstalling it on the motor/sprockets took 3 people to do.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  9. #54
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    After dealing with some stuff like this I’ve taken to stocking spares of many parts. It’s certainly saved me from days/weeks of not using a machine while waiting for parts to arrive. On things like fuses, capacitors, belts and bearings it’s often helpful to have them around. Recently I ordered a cutterhead for a small machine, the manufacturer sent the wrong bearings (perhaps for a similar machine) and luckily I had the correct bearings on hand. Not sure I would do this for every bearing but the common ones.

    WRT planer table, on a recent two post planer I did this using a block of wood as a go/no-go gauge. I just place it under the cutter head then rotated by hand until it just barely started to touch on either side of the cutter head, this was just fine for a two post planer. That will get you in the ballpark but on a four post planer but you’ll have to adjust out twist also. I’d reference your checking tools off a ground parallel surface on the machine. Could do this with 1-2-3 blocks, a straight edge (a real straightedge checked for flatness) and feeler gauges.

    Next time when you take it apart, paint a tooth on the sprocket with a location on the machine and on the chain on every sprocket. That way you know how they orient before you tear it down.

    Tear-down is a detailed process on machine parts, document and make life easier by noting orientation of parts.
    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 08-21-2022 at 12:32 PM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  10. #55
    Is there any reason why you can't use shim stock under the threaded rod brackets where they mount to the machine frame? You may be able to rotate the rods for gross height adjustment and dial in with shims.
    Last edited by Kevin Jenness; 08-21-2022 at 1:17 PM.

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Lightstone View Post
    I can measure the boards to 0.001 thickness. I would think a repair would involve removing the chain again, and spinning all of the sprockets to a fixed point, like the top of the machine. Then putting back on the chain.

    But taking off the chain and reinstalling it on the motor/sprockets took 3 people to do.
    I can imagine your frustration.

    Indexing sll sprockets to the top or elsewhere may not do it, depending on mfg tolerances and hope it’s constructed. A dial test indicator on a suitable precision bed would be my preference. I mount one on the milling machine for such things, not useful if you don’t have one. That’s why I suggested the machine shop. However I dont even know if the machine can be moved.

    I still have hard time believing 3 people are needed to loosen and tighten the chain. Don’t make me drive down there…Can not support give you a procedure? This would stretch my patience and normal good humor. Maybe ask to speak to someone who knows something.

  12. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post
    Is there any reason why you can't use shim stock under the threaded rod brackets where they mount to the machine frame? You may be able to rotate the rods for gross height adjustment and dial in with shims.
    That's interesting, Kevin. There may be something to being able to rotate the one or two rods while the chain keeps the sprocket in the same location on the chain (I know I didn't describe this right).

    The problem now is that the steel plate that must, I guess, hold the roller assembly that moves the wood is no longer level to the machine and cutter heads. By small amounts, but certainly noticeable. I really don't know how this looks much on the inside. Much is hidden from view.

    The motor I changed/installed rotates the chain which goes around 4 acme screws - one on each post. This is used to raise/lower the table to adjust height with a digital control and readout. Now if all four sprockets are on the same level in relation to the roller assembly, the unit will cut a consistent thickness. But if one or two are slightly higher or lower on the acme screws, the wood must feed in a little crooked with some areas being planed thicker than others.

    I hope that explains it better.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    I can imagine your frustration.

    I still have hard time believing 3 people are needed to loosen and tighten the chain. Don’t make me drive down there…Can not support give you a procedure? This would stretch my patience and normal good humor. Maybe ask to speak to someone who knows something.
    I was more than stunned that it took more than one person to do it, much less three. The chain is just made too short, so the "loosening bolt" is a joke (I actually can't figure out how it could possible loosen anything by its design.

    And, if you're ever in the Tampa Bay area - come on over.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  14. #59
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Lightstone View Post
    That's interesting, Kevin. There may be something to being able to rotate the one or two rods while the chain keeps the sprocket in the same location on the chain (I know I didn't describe this right).

    The problem now is that the steel plate that must, I guess, hold the roller assembly that moves the wood is no longer level to the machine and cutter heads. By small amounts, but certainly noticeable. I really don't know how this looks much on the inside. Much is hidden from view.

    The motor I changed/installed rotates the chain which goes around 4 acme screws - one on each post. This is used to raise/lower the table to adjust height with a digital control and readout. Now if all four sprockets are on the same level in relation to the roller assembly, the unit will cut a consistent thickness. But if one or two are slightly higher or lower on the acme screws, the wood must feed in a little crooked with some areas being planed thicker than others.

    I hope that explains it better.
    I think you are visualizing the situation correctly. Unbolting the rod brackets and rotating the rods will have the same effect as removing the chain and rotating the sprockets, except that the resolution is finer on the sprockets than the brackets so you might need shims for fine tuning. Use a gauge block as Brian described as well as a straightedge from corner to corner of the planer table to get it parallel to the cutterhead and free of twist.

    Looking closely at the parts diagram in post 26 it looks as though the threaded bottom socket is captured between two flanges. It may be a matter of simply loosening those flanges and rotating the sockets to get your table height correct.
    Last edited by Kevin Jenness; 08-21-2022 at 3:30 PM.

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post
    I think you are visualizing the situation correctly. Unbolting the rod brackets and rotating the rods will have the same effect as removing the chain and rotating the sprockets, except that the resolution is finer on the sprockets than the brackets so you might need shims for fine tuning. Use a gauge block as Brian described as well as a straightedge from corner to corner of the planer table to get it parallel to the cutterhead and free of twist.

    Looking closely at the parts diagram in post 26 it looks as though the threaded bottom socket is captured between two flanges. It may be a matter of simply loosening those flanges and rotating the sockets to get your table height correct.
    Where would you use the gauge block? Or the shims for that matter.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

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