Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Arm-R-Seal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Springfield, IL
    Posts
    411

    Arm-R-Seal

    I've been researching this forum for 90+ minutes and like everything I've read about subject finish. One question however; I'm finishing a table top that is 10' long and 40" wide. That's a lot of area for a wipe-on. Would this concern you enough consider something other than a wipe-on?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,648
    Yes. As much as I love ARS, I've never been able to apply it on a surface that large w/o leaving some streaks. For a table top that large I spray WB. If I had to do it by hand, using varnish, I would brush on thicker coats, each coat as soon as the prior one is dry enough to do so. After 3 or 4 coats, I'd sand it dead flat and then apply one or two more coats. After that cures for a month or so I'd rub it out.

    For a lot less work I'd use Osmo Polyox or Rubio Monocoat.

    John

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    2,474
    IMO, Arm-R-Seal is so fantastic I would find a way to use it on your project. Like apply 2-3 coats full strength with a brush, gently sand down with something like 600 grit paper, and finish with 2 coats of a slightly diluted wipe on, after planning every move, being totally prepared, and working quickly. The first coat will be a trial run for the final coat. Maybe do all the legs and sides first and then tackle the top with a wide pad. Then buff, buff, buff.

    I have a walnut lav sink counter (I know, not a huge project like yours) that actually looks better ten years later because of how well we have cared for it - never letting water sit on it and always wiping it down. Ten years of wiping it down has actually smoothed the surface. All I'm saying is, A-R-S is amazing and I would choose that over any WB product out there.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,494
    Blog Entries
    1
    As John said, I have issues on larger surfaces with ARS. I am successful with a shop blend that is higher in BLO for the first coat. This allows padding a larger surface if padding is your preference. The down side is cure time. I add a bit of Japan Drier to help with that. Once the base coat is on a typical 1:1:1 varnish:BLO:mineral spirits blend works well for me.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Springfield, IL
    Posts
    411
    Do you guys start with Seal-A-Cell before using ARS?

  6. #6
    I'd skip the seal a cell. I had the best luck with Arm R Seal or any wiping varnish by using semi gloss or satin.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,648
    I've used Seal-A-Cell but see no point in it unless you like the reddish tint it gives.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Springfield, IL
    Posts
    411
    ARS add a bit of "warmth", doesn't it? Other oil based finishes I've used have.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,648
    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    I'd skip the seal a cell. I had the best luck with Arm R Seal or any wiping varnish by using semi gloss or satin.
    Yes, like all oil based varnishes. Here is ARS on walnut:




    On curly maple:



    John

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    2,474
    Wow that walnut pic is amazing.

  11. #11
    Can you spray ArmRSeal?

    A water based lacquer would probably be my choice.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    Can you spray ArmRSeal?
    Can you? Yes. Good idea? Not really a good idea to spray a slow drying oil based finish because the recoat time is long which can result in multiple cleaning efforts for your equipment and the overspray is a sticky mess.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    N CA
    Posts
    1,279
    When I refinished one of the floors in the house I used a sheepskin pad that was about a ft wide. On this table top would that not be a better way to carry the finish to the top for at least the first couple coats.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,648
    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Frederick View Post
    When I refinished one of the floors in the house I used a sheepskin pad that was about a ft wide. On this table top would that not be a better way to carry the finish to the top for at least the first couple coats.
    I would strongly contemplate that approach if I had to apply ARS to a really large tabletop like this.

    John

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NE Florida
    Posts
    299
    Arm-R-Seal works fine...I used a foam bursh for the top of this table:

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....ble&highlight=

    edit: I might not do such a large surface this time of year here in Florida....at least not in my unconditioned garage. I believe I finished the above table in the fall when it was relatively cool.
    Last edited by Christian Hawkshaw; 07-21-2022 at 6:54 PM.
    Chris

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •