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Thread: Roughing blade for LN No. 4 - anyone use one??

  1. #16
    I would recommend getting a wooden double iron jack plane, about 17 inches long. This is the traditional tool for rough truing of wood. It is much more comfortable than a Bailey plane for rough work.

    I have used this tool since 1978; it was a great improvement over a #4 plane.

  2. #17
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    Thanks for all the comments. They have been helpful as they have forced me to think about some issues I hadn't considered. This is going to sound like heresy, but most "lumber" that I use (minimal these days with the Windsor chair thing front and center) is run thru my planer and jointer. My main use for a scrub is to get a seat blank flat so that I can then use a smoother to get a nice surface. A 17" plane on a 22" seat blank might be a bit of overkill!?!?

    After some of the comments I am pretty sure that moving the frog back would be necessary if I bought the cambered blade for the LN 4. I have it nicely tuned and I just wouldn't want to do that. As I said, I am not a fiddler when it comes to tools. I want it to be sitting on a shelf in my plane till ready to grab when needed. I will probably end up with the LN 40 1/2 at some point.

    Left click my name for homepage link.

  3. #18
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    A no.6 would work fine for that. I keep two with different cambers. You can use the edge of the plane to feel and see for flat.

  4. #19
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    A 2" wide iron works just as well in a Jack plane as a #4 smoother....as the #5 also uses a 2" wide iron.....and a Jack is a better "home" for a cambered edged iron....and, NO one does not need to camber the chipbreaker to match....UN-nessasary
    A Planer? I'm the Planer, and this is what I use

  5. #20
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    For planes that pull thick shavings, I just get the chipbreaker back out of the way, so shavings can fly up in the air, and get out of the way. Some think a shaving is not okay unless it's straight, but I like for them to curl up, and fly away, rather than having to pull one off my wrist.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    For planes that pull thick shavings, I just get the chipbreaker back out of the way, so shavings can fly up in the air, and get out of the way. Some think a shaving is not okay unless it's straight, but I like for them to curl up, and fly away, rather than having to pull one off my wrist.
    I agree. A chip breaker is only useful if you want it to break chips. On the #5 is set up as a “Roughing Jack” I cambered the iron and backed the chip breaker way off. It peels up big thick curls. When the board is trued up, I hit it with a #62 LA Jack to flatten and then with a smoother. The #5 does all the hard work.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  7. #22
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    John,

    It may not be Ulmia, but Infinity Tools carries a line of Euro wooden planes, including a scrub plane version.

    https://www.infinitytools.com/scrub-hand-plane

    I haven't had a chance to do any flattening with mine, but have used it a few times to get a board down to width in a hurry.

    YMMV,

    Monte

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by John Keeton View Post
    Thanks for all the comments. They have been helpful as they have forced me to think about some issues I hadn't considered. This is going to sound like heresy, but most "lumber" that I use (minimal these days with the Windsor chair thing front and center) is run thru my planer and jointer. My main use for a scrub is to get a seat blank flat so that I can then use a smoother to get a nice surface. A 17" plane on a 22" seat blank might be a bit of overkill!?!?

    .
    The reason for a 17 inch jack plane is not because the length is needed for truing. It is because spreading your hands gives more leverage in controlling the plane. With a heavy cut, you need more leverage to keep from getting tired. And a wooden jack is lighter than an equivalent iron plane, also less tiring.

    If you look at an 18th century Windsor chair you can usually see the marks of a jack plane on the bottom. The scrub plane originated about 1890 and was made by Stanley for carpenters, not Windsor chair makers.

  9. #24
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    in other words..Moxxon had it wrong....

    That's ok...I'll just keep my Corsair C-5 scrub jack...with it's 8' radius camber and LARGE mouth.....shavings the thickness of an old Groat ( coin)....

    Go straight across the grain, all the way along the board
    Come back up the length, going at a 45 degree "Traverse" diagonal until you reach where you started from...then go back the other direction, crossing the first diagonals at 90 degrees...

    Switch to a longer ( No. 6 size) fore plane...also at the traverse....until it produces a full width shaving...

    THEN a smoother to finish up....

    A job for each plane....do them in order, and things will get done fast...

    I'm afraid Moxxon was before Warren's time....
    A Planer? I'm the Planer, and this is what I use

  10. #25
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    If trading the Ulmia's around doesn't work for you, I have a #4 Stanley from the current home store inventory that was useless as a #4. I think I paid about $20 for it. Once I gave up on taking shavings with it I cambered the iron and just kept opening the mouth open open open until shavings were flying vertically. You can have it ready to work for $25 plus shipping.

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by steven c newman View Post
    in other words..Moxxon had it wrong....

    I'm afraid Moxxon was before Warren's time....
    In other words you are none too familiar with Moxon. One x

    Moxon describes rough planing with a fore plane. Planing with the grain unless the board is wide and warped. He later says that fore planeand jack plane are two names for the same tool.

    Moxon never heard of a scrub plane. He died in 1691

  12. #27
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    Same old, same old...learned to use hand planes back in High School...beginning about the 67-68 school year...

    Because the scrub plane came from German Joiners....NOT English Joiners. However...Moxon spoke pages about the common Jack plane, didn't he?

    Although...Chris Schwarz does show all about the "Fore-most" Common Jack plane....an entire episode of The Woodwright's shop was taken up by it.

    Back to the OP's question....both the #4 and #5 planes NORMALLY take a 2" wide irons.....with the cambered, "roughing" iron finding a home in the #5 Jack of all planes.
    A Planer? I'm the Planer, and this is what I use

  13. #28
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    If he'd traveled to Germany or Scandinavia he likely would have.

  14. #29
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    It is funny, I hear scrub, fore and jack almost used interchangeably at times. Sometimes it is a function of region, time period, others it is how you were raised (instructed) or just a matter of what forum you are into. All I know is that I become more skillful with planes I get a better feel to "Hog Off" more material at a time to speed things up. When you think about it, a new comer to hand planes doesn't go strait to the scrub. They start taking very thin passes and get a square to check their work. It is the skill and knowledge in knowing how to work the wood that makes them fun! I must admit where I started was best described as over correcting in a skid.

  15. #30
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    It is funny, I hear scrub, fore and jack almost used interchangeably at times. Sometimes it is a function of region, time period, others it is how you were raised (instructed) or just a matter of what forum you are into.
    It is funny how this is.

    What woodworkers tend to call marking gauges:

    Marking Gauges.jpg

    Candy and her associates in the framing department of an arts supply store called a scribe.

    Sometimes a name may conjure up an image other than one intended.

    jtk
    Last edited by Jim Koepke; 07-19-2022 at 1:38 PM.
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

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