sandpaper.jpgGot some drywall sandpaper after taping and spackling ceiling damage from water. Have some leftover paper. I think i should be able to use this for woodoworking? Any thoughts.
sandpaper.jpgGot some drywall sandpaper after taping and spackling ceiling damage from water. Have some leftover paper. I think i should be able to use this for woodoworking? Any thoughts.
Likely usable but may or may not perform the same way as what you normally use for your wood sanding.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
I think most of the drywall sandpaper is around 100 to 120 grit so you should be fine. I have found that unless I am doing rooms and rooms of taping that it is just as easy to use my regular ROS to smooth drywall mud. Using a vacuum and the sander makes for a dust free quickly smoothed taping experience.
good luck
That says 150. I think it's just an odd size to fit the sheetrock sanding pad, and is just Silicon Carbide sandpaper. Some of it has PSA backing, and some a soft velcro interface. It should work fine on wood. These days, I do as little sanding as possible also, and use a 6" ROS with good dust collection, and supplied air to me.
Jim, Alex, Tom, thanks for your advice!
If those are the screen type, I've used those for sanding wood in the past.Got some drywall sandpaper after taping and spackling ceiling damage from water. Have some leftover paper. I think i should be able to use this for woodoworking? Any thoughts.
Pretty much a waste of good sanding screens.
They work, but...
My granddad always said, :As one door closes, another opens".
Wonderful man, terrible cabinet maker...
I use a large dampened sponge. I keep about 4 gallons of water in a 5 gallon pail and rinse out the sponge frequently. I scrape the high spots off before by using a wide taping knife, and then just go at it with the dampened sponge. No dust and no sandpaper. It takes a little practice, and you don't want to over dampen the joint, just wipe off the bumps. With a loaded sponge, I also wipe the paper surface of the sheetrock to give it a similar texture to help keep the whole wall the same texture. No dust to breathe and clean up. I've been doing it this way for over 60 years. My uncle, a builder, taught me this and I've not sanded another drywall seam since.
When taping joints, it helps to have a light source that you can use up against the drywall and shining across the joint to easily see the bumps and valleys as you work. I use a fluorescent mechanics trouble light in one hand with the taping knife in the other when doing the final coat of taping compound, so I can better see what I am doing.
Charley
I use a sponge before the final coat, but do a little sanding on the last coat. I clamp a light to the hawk, and hold the light right against the wall shining across it. You can see a spec on the wall and the slightest imperfection. I do the same thing with auto/boat bodywork.