Fuming White Oak / Ammonia

[James Jayko]

Hey all, I saw an article about fuming white oak with ammonia and I want to try it on a project. They mentioned "industrial strength" (~28% IIRC) and "janatorial strength" (~10% IIRC) in lieu of the stuff from the grocery store. Are there any places that one can relatively easily get either of these products without having to order from a chemical supply company?

[Rob Luter]

A blueprint supply store for the industrial grade. A gallon will last you forever. Any industrial supply store for the janitorial grade (MSC, Grainger, etc.) A restaurant supply house that has cleaning supplies should have it too. It will still last a good long time. Grocery store stuff will work, especially in warm weather. It just takes more liquid and more time. I fume often, as do other SMC members.

[James Jayko]

Thanks Rob! Blueprint supply store...I didn't even know that was a thing. Out of curiosity, why on earth would they stock industrial ammonia?

[Stan Calow]

I use the basic grocery store stuff because I dont want to store dangerous chemicals around the house. Just takes longer. There are janitorial supply stores around here that sell stronger, so probably some in your area.

[John TenEyck]

Be very aware that 28% ammonia is dangerous stuff. There are safer, easier, and more consistent ways to get the look of fumed oak. Those might be among the reasons Stickley stopped using it on a commercial scale.

John

[James Jayko]

@John, just in as much as you want to be absolutely sure you're not huffing it? I planned to tent it and do it outside, but it seems like the 10% is more readily available and definitely less caustic.

[Bill Dufour]

For a beginner I recommend you include a scrap piece in the tent. pull it out and check the color. When you like the color cut off 1/2" and look at penetration depth of the color. Heck do this before you even try the technique on a project. A five gallon bucket or a clean trashcan is a good starter.
Go to an Appliance store and get a big box to wrap plastic around or inside.
Know anyone with a pool? Chlorine buckets make good fuming chambers as do olive barrels.
BILL D.

[Jerry Bruette]

Thanks Rob! Blueprint supply store...I didn't even know that was a thing. Out of curiosity, why on earth would they stock industrial ammonia?

For making true old fashioned blueprints. The prints you see today are different, they're ink printed on a white background. A true blueprint is a blue background and white lines.

Make sure that no matter what strength your ammonia is keep it away from any cleaner that has chlorine in it. Mixing ammonia and chlorine can be deadly.

[Bill Dufour]

The lower strength will have more water and cause more grain raising. So more sanding after fuming.
Bill D

[Rob Luter]

Thanks Rob! Blueprint supply store...I didn't even know that was a thing. Out of curiosity, why on earth would they stock industrial ammonia?

For Diazo Print (Blueprint) machines. There used to be shops in every town, especially if you had any manufacturing. Copiers and large format printer/plotter hardware has pretty much been the death of them. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whiteprint

I grabbed a gallon while it was still available. I keep it in the garage.

[Rob Luter]

Be very aware that 28% ammonia is dangerous stuff. There are safer, easier, and more consistent ways to get the look of fumed oak. Those might be among the reasons Stickley stopped using it on a commercial scale.

John

That and changing tastes. The original Ammonia process was pretty dark. According to the Docent at the Stickley Museum, other finishes gained favor over time. I really like a fumed finish because it draws out the unique character of the wood. It's in the wood instead of on the wood. That said, other processes like the Homestead Mission recipes can do a much better job of popping the grain and the ray flake. For example, these two tables are the same wood (common boards).

Fumed, natural Danish oil and wax:




Homestead process: Dye, Stain, Danish oil, shellac, and wax.

[Tom Bender]

Hi Rob

I agree with your comment but you did cheat on your photography, cloudy vs sunny.

Nice tables.

[Rob Luter]

Thanks. Mother nature is often not cooperative.

Actually the round top table presents the more accurate color. Here's an interior shot of the hall table that shows a better (more accurate) depiction. It still pops the grain better than fuming.



Note that my fumed table is much lighter than some vintage Stickley. I think the shellac darkens over time.

Here's a little Japanese Style Tool Box I made of White Oak that was fumed. You can see how the tannin differences in the wood really show up in the finished product.