Panel board widths

[Bernie Kopfer]

I have three red oak boards 8”,6”,and 8”. Wish to make a Coffee table top 21x48x1” thick. I’m wondering if the 8” pieces should be Cut in half turned and reglued? Where I live we have minimal humidity swings to the point that expansion and contraction is seldom considered in shorter widths. (Helps if the furniture stays east of the Cascades) So before I go to planing the boards to thickness, 1”, I’m hoping to not need to cut and have more glue seams. Any opinions?

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Bernie, I see no need to rip them……Regards, Rod

[Lee Schierer]

It depends....Look at the end grain of your boards. If the grain is close to quarter sawed, then use the boards as is. If the boards have long curved grain, then they are more likely to cup. You can minimize the tendency for the boards to cup by applying the same amount and type of finish on all four sides of the panel when you get to the finishing stage. What ever you decide, make sure that you never lean the glued up panel against the wall or leave it flat on a work surface for long periods of time.

The top on this red oak cabinet is a glue up of 1 x 6 boards. The top has remained flat for over 30 years. As you can see the end grain has considerable curvature. I flipped the curvature on every other board to minimize the effect of any cupping.
IMG_8218.jpg

[Jim Becker]

I will always choose to use the boards as wide as possible, personally. Unless there are "yuge" overhangs, the table top will stay flat because of the connection to the table base...that connection done properly, will allow for seasonal wood movement, but should keep the top captive and flat. Be sure you finish both sides of the top before final assembly.

[Bernie Kopfer]

Thanks for the reminder to make sure that I finish both sides before I assemble. Since this table is going to a relative I’ll be able to keep an eye on it and see if wide boards in our climate area do any movement or distorting.