Bench build, for the beginner or intermediate woodworker. (consolidated)

[Tom Bussey]

My 1st first decision was in choosing ash for the top.
The main reason is Ash will absorb a hammer or mallet blow, Maple and other woods
like red oak will bounce back, or have a recoil


The 2nd reason, is Ash is a hard wood and is dried under different standards than any commercial grade construction lumber. I believe that construction lumber is dried to between 15% and 20%. The general conscience for hardwood is 4%to 8%. I also believe that both numbers can be taken with a grain of salt.


And the 3rd. is, Ash trees are literally dying in groves at the present time and will soon go the way of the Chestnuts and Elms. It is cheap at the present and I wanted it to count for something.


The #2 decision is I chose 4/4ths material to make the parts from,
because it is easier to work with than 8/4ths or 6/4ths And especially for beginners or
intermate woodworkers.
Yes, there will be less glue ups with 8/4ths, but so what.?
If you screws up there will be less voids and cost per BF is higher for 8/4ths.

If you want to sound knowable and write about 8/4ths material being the only
expectable size then please feel free to start your own thread.


My #3 second decision was how thick to make the top. I chose 4 inches. Why?
Most people consider the thickness on a Roubo bench to be 4 inches thick. At the
present time the Roubo style bench is considered to be the only style of bench to build.
And actually it is the the easiest style of bench bench to build. The Moravian is not for
the faint hearted.
Personally I prefer the European style with a face vise and a tail vise.
And lastly, 4 inches is easier to deal with in the head than 3 5/16ths. The number is just
for example only


Can it be 3 inches thick? Yes. Actually it can and will be any thickness you make it.
And it can it be made out of any material you choose to make it from. All materials have
their own strengths and weaknesses.


Can tops be 3 inches in some parts and 4 in others? Yes, but construction problems can
arise down the road. And I have been there and did that and personally I will not do it
again.

And lastly Tail Vise and Shoulder Vise hardware likes a 4 inch top. As well as holdfasts.


The #4 decision is what size to make the legs and frame assemblies. I chose 3 by 4. 4
because of that is the thickness of the top so if a piece for the top doesn't work out , it
can be used for the leg assembly without doing anything special.


I chose 3 inches thick because my table saw can saw it to length without turning over.
Any mismatches show up when flipping a board.


And 3/4 times 4 is 3 inches. And there is 1/8th to spare. So a leg glue up is 4 pieces.
Size and mass look good on a work bench and are proportional to the build.


And 5 is the length of the top.


For the size of my shop, 8 foot long is a little over the top. In a size ratio, a 7 ft. length is
ideal ( 84 inches) for ME, and a 6ft top is a little short (72 inches)


Like Smokey the Bear, only you can determine what the length of the top shout be and
for you and you alone. And actually the invirement that it is in should determine it. It
should not be any larger than the invirement will allow.


#6 is the width. The final width of each board and number of boards used will determine
the actual width and one can stop at any time when gluing up for the width.


And lastly is height, which is the most important dimension of the build. But along with the
width is the least important dimension at the present.


If you make the top 7 foot then you have some scrap to deal with, but it helps with
snipe. Latter on that. If it is 6 ft. then there is basically 2 ft. left over for spreaders on
the end assemblies. If the top is glued in 8 foot pieces then glue 4 pieces leave a 2
foot section unglued between 4 and 5 and then continue gluing. At the end when the
2 foot is cut off, then you will have 3 or 4 of the 3 X /4 X 24 inch pieces already glued
up .If the top is 24 inches and the legs are 3 inches then the stretcher in-between
needs to only needs to be 18 inches plus tenons not a full 24 inches

If the top is 4 inches thick and the leg is 3 x4 then one of the 8 ft. boards that was cut
in strips for the top can be cut into 33 inch lengths and glued up for a leg. 4 pieces of
1 x 4 x 8 will make 4 legs.


If the top is 4 inches and the legs are 4 inches and the parts between are 4 inches,
then all you have had to worry about in the build up until now is making your pieces for
glue up into 4 inch wide strips.


Part 2 of the build will come latter and will be more pictures than text.

[Scott Clausen]

Pick a design and size and go a it. It looks like you only have the go at it left. looking forward to the pictures.

[Joe A Faulkner]

Tom my guess is you have made several other design decisions that are perhaps so obvious to you that they don’t feel like decisions. Vises, vise hardware, chop thickness, dog holes, hold fast holes, sliding deadman, tool tray, leg to bench top connectivity, breadboard end caps on the bench top or jus end grain, vise chop faces, finish (do you plan on something different for the under carriage than the top, Bottom shelf or tool cabinet, integrated planing stop …?

[Tom Bussey]

I am sorry, I thought this was in General woodworking and power tool section of the forum and hopefully a moderator will put it there. I will make sure that I post the rest of what I have to say in that forum.

Actually. I haven't made that many decisions. Most benches that are featured on this forum are Roubo style benches. Personally, I think the Roubo bench is rather plain looking, to down right ugly. And like wise most, here on this forum think that the top needs to be at least 4 inches thick. And yes I have experience with a 4 inch top and like it very much and would recommend that thickness . But I also defend the builders right to make it any thickness he or she wants. And if he or she wants a Roubo style bench then they have the right to build one.

Yes shoulder vise hardware from Lee Valley ( Cost 39.50) works great on a 4 inch thick top. And the shoulder vise hardware also works great for a wagon vise, and the 4 inch top also works great for that. So for $79 one can have two vises that do not have to play second fiddle to any others. Yes , the tail vise from Lee Valley ( cost $99 ) also works on a 4 inch thickness as well as bench dogs )( round or square) which the person building the bench has a decision to make as well as using holdfasts and both work well on a 4 inch thick top.

I thank you for you time about writing about all of the design decisions like Vises, vise hardware, chop thickness, dog holes, hold fast holes, sliding Deadman, tool tray, leg to bench top connectivity, breadboard end caps on the bench top or jus end grain, vise chop faces, finish (do you plan on something different for the under carriage than the top), Bottom shelf or tool cabinet, integrated planning stop …? My guess is, based on your experience, you have made these and possibly other decisions as well. Looking forward to seeing your progress. All of those decisions are not for me to make. It is not my bench. If one is going to have a front vise or a twin screw vise at the end of the bench then I would get them now. A leg vise or the vises I have mentioned not so much but one should get them shortly.

All that I have written to date is to say why I chose Ash. Why I chose 4/4ths material and not 6/4th or 8 /4th. And because each board can be a slightly different thickness, so the number of boards determine the width, so I can't give am exact width. The length of the bench is determined by its invirement, And if you pays attention to length of bench and what not, the top can be glued up and then cut to length and the pieces or drop offs can already be glued and thus saving extra glue ups. Also saving extra material that would need to be accounted for as snips.

Yes I would recommend a 4 inch thick top. Yes I recommend legs dimensions of 3x4. because The top is 4 inches so all pieces in this part of the build can be cut to 4 inches and the 3 inch width takes 4 piece ( finished dress at 3/4 of an inch) and they can be cut to length on a table saw because most saws can cut 3 1/8 inches.

I am trying to give enough information so that even a beginner doesn't have to feel intimidated and to feel that he or she can build the first bench of their dreams. Actually the information I hope to pass on will be how to approach building anything including furniture.

At this point, a person could cut at least be able to cut at least 100 BF of lumber into 4 inch wide strips 8 foot long an not cut one piece that will need to be cut over because of a mistake..

AND actually I would cut it 4 1/4 wide so that I have material to take off to finish at 4 inches. Things happen.

[Tom Bussey]

I have to say this because it will help explain what I am saying in my next post.


All of you have been lied to for so long that it has become the truth. And the first thing that is usually stated is that wood has to be acclimated. when it arrives at home. It is an out and out lie. The only effect that moisture has on wood is size. You believe that moisture is the problem because it is always mentioned here on this forum and usually by those who want to appear to be knowledgeable. And that they just want to be heard. Just because it is said often enough doesn't make it true. One can not glue into a cross grain joint because of wood movement is true but That is true only because wood grows in width, but not really along with the grain so the joint is self destructive. The wood I got for the bench was stored in a shed, open to ambient air conditions. My shop is also open to ambient air conditions, do you really think that in 20 miles the wood needs to be climatized? ? ?


Please do not come to me with the difference between fir and Ash .And how fir twists or squeeze's against the back of the blade because of the moisture in it. And that can be stopped if the board is somehow allowed to stabilize for 6 months or more, And if it sets long enough the moisture will go away. It can close up around the blade or open up away from the blade. Usually if board closes up it is from case hardening from drying to quickly not the moisture content. There is as much of a difference between night and day as in wood species. It is like the difference cement and black top. Both are road surfaces only. Construction lumber and hardwood also have different scales that they are controlled by.


Again, just think about it. All moisture effects is size and moisture travels from greater to lesser. And the greater the difference the faster the transfer. Yes, the wood can get bigger or smaller but that is all. Period!


But there is growing stress in the tree as it compete for light, and different seasonal conditions, cutting stress, sawing and drying stress and all of that needs to be released. Did I mention, or could it just be the nature of the medium itself. The fact is that there are other contributing factors, wood cups to the bark side of a tree because the growth rings want to go straight. The inside of the tree should be the out side of the drawer because of it cups the corners will remain tight. And the cup is more pronounced if it is flat sawn and more toward the out side of the tree where the growth rings are more pronounced.


Now it a cut is made down the center of the board where the growth rings are in the tightest radius then the tension band in the growth rings are release and now the board doesn't have the tension band and it become more stable, because the growth bands become straighter.


Please stay with me even if you think I am stupid that and am talking out the side of my head. Again you believe moisture is the problem because it is stated here on the forum and usually by those who just want to be heard or read it and want to appear like they are know something. Just because it is said or printed doesn't make it true


My next post will possible placate some you. because of what and how I am doing it. So stay tuned. Moisture effects size and possible texture of wood only , inherent propertied in wood cause the other effects.

[Tom Bussey]

I went to the saw mill and bought about 50 BF of Ash. I also bought some hard maple, which has nothing to do with the build. I would have bought more but money and needs prevented that, It is only a 10 mile round trip form leaving work to get more so I'll stop and get more when I get more money. Doesn't that sound familiar to some of you?

Attachment 482592 Attachment 482593

I do not climatize my wood, I think it is a waste of time , please read part 2. Obvious, I kind of look my wood over and select the pieces I want to start on first. There are two different trains of though here though. First one is to layout or measure where to cut and then brake down the board into lengths you want. Me, I use a sled and straight line rip it. My disclaimer is that option is not available at this saw mill, and that it about $.10 extra a linear foot where it is available, which is over eighty mile away. More on straight lining latter. I straight line rip the entire board. That way even if I cut it in different lengths latter I have a straight edge to start with.

Attachment 482596 Attachment 482597

I want you to notice somethings and that is that there is a smooth out feed table that is long enough, that the eight foot piece doesn't drop down when it is completely through the saw. A roller system can allow the end off the board to drop in-between the rollers and cause a stop feed condition to happen. I know they sell out feed roller systems but I prefer just a flat piece of plywood which can be also hinged behind the saw cheaper. I think it needs to be at least 6 inches beyond the back of the saw blade at its highest. Please notice that the table saw guard is in place, the board can not drop down therefore pulling my hands or arms over the saw blade.. I have 3 feather boards in place, 2 to push the assembly to the fence before the cut starts and one behind the blade to stop the material from coming away from the fence when It exits the cut. I also built a small support table that I can put on or take off in the front of the table. I lot of people use a roller stand but the roller can drop or move and I just got tired of fighting it and made a stand so the height is right no matter what and it cant move in the cut. It also serves as a support table when loading the sled.

So in conclusion, I have done everything I can to be safe in the cut. I can even take my hands off the sled and walk away without anything happening. Even the drop off at the end has trouble being flung forward because of the resistance of the feather boards not beings smooth surface to help it a long and by the fact that I am not even in the throw of the machine helps. This is not a lot of safety rules, it is about my attitude toward safety. The most important guide line I can offer is protect what you can't replace. Note the Saw Stop.

Next I have 2 picture of the second cut. I want my boards a little oversized so I moved the board over 4 1/4 inches ( 1/4 for extra material that can be removed later) for the cut and 1/8 of an inch for the saw kerf or 4 3/8th b using a steel rule at both ends of the board, referencing off from the sed. Please not that this would possibly be the most dangerous cut if the board had a rock or a cup or twist in it and if it was removed from the sled and just pushed against the fence. Worst case scenario, no blade guard, no kick back paws, no riving knife and the board collapses in the cut and you have a potential kick back you can not believe and it happens in a second or less.

Since the edge of the sled and the clamps prevent the board from moving in any way shape or form. And the feather boards ( which are 1/2 thick stop the cut off from falling away at the end of the cut. the 4 1/4 inch wide board just sets on the table and looks at you. Blade can not kick back the cut off.

If the last piece isn't wide enough just set it aside and move on, I will explain how to deal with it latter. just move on.

DSC03863.JPG DSC03864.JPG

You now have your first piece of you bench top cut out.

Okay, you are a hobbyist and you are feeling fortunate to have been able to spend your Saturday afternoon in the shop. The families demands on you for time and demands is not a good word to use. tend to take away the time you would like to devote, so shop time is some what guarded, what now)

I put a hook in the end of the board and hang it on a cable in my shop or wherever you can put it. It keeps it off the floor, it allows for air to circulate all around it ( acclimate) You can visibly inspect it at anytime, You can write on it as to what detail it is so when you forget what it is down the road you can find it., And most importantly it is allowes the board to move and twist and do what ever it is going to do, so that by the time you can get back to it you can use it.

DSC03865.JPG DSC03866.JPG

The most important message that I have put out so far is that it doesn't matter what you are building. I have completed part of the roughing stages. I have not committed to any particular finished size. I can clean( sweep the shop and get rid of any wood that is left over that I cant use) be be ready to continue when I can next time.

To the beginner and even the intermittent woodworker. You can build anything if you follow a few simple guidelines. And I hop this helps.

To be continued>

[Tom Bussey]

Please forgive a little of the safety stuff. I tangled with a table saw about 30 years ago and I swore I would never do it again. But My friend just lost part of a thumb and three fingers a week ago so it is kind of fresh on my mind. I do mention some of the things that I think can prevent some of it, so I thought I would also share it.


I went to the saw mill and bought about 50 BF of Ash. I also bought some hard maple, which has nothing to do with the build. I would have bought more but money and needs prevented that, It is only a 10 mile round trip form leaving work to get more so I'll stop and get more when I get more money. Doesn't that sound familiar to some of you?

Attachment 482647 Attachment 482648

I do do not climatize my wood, I think it is a waste of time , please read part 2. Obvious, I kind of look my wood over and select the pieces I want to start on first. There are two different trains of though here though. First one is to layout or measure where to cut and then brake down the board into lengths you want. Me, I use a sled and straight line rip it. My disclaimer is that option is not available at this saw mill, and that about an $.10 extra a linear foot where it is available, which is over eighty mile away. More on straight lining latter. I straight line rip the entire board. That way even if I cut it in different lengths latter I have a straight edge to start with.

Attachment 482649 Attachment 482650

Now to the safety portion. I have an outfeed table that is a littler longer than 4 foot from the back of the saw blade. I am fortunate in that it is always in place. I can cut an eight foot board and never have to worry about the other end of the board dropping. I do not have to reach over the blade to catch the ends as they come free. Therefore I can not get pulled into the blade even if the guard s off. A lot of manufactures make a roller system for the back but I prefer a solid back just out of plywood. With a little foresight, anyone should be able to make a table with hinges and some swing up legs so they can have this luxury. Protect what you can't replace, and don't forget to put slots in before hand for the runners on the miter gauges. Also much cheaper than manufactured tables. Next I built a little support table that folds up and can be put out of the way when not in use. People try to use roller stands and I did too. but they are never at the correct height or level with the saw or slid out o the way at the worst possible moment.

Now I have an outfeed table, an infeed table which also doubles as a loading station and have spent about 4 minutes getting the sled and putting the front table in place and locking it down. The infeed table comes on and off so many times that it is just routine anymore. Pleas note the feather boards, I have 2 before the saw blade to push the front of the sled against the fence. I have one behind the blade to stop every thing from coming away from the fence when the cut is finished.

But a straight line rip cut stopping a kick back is not to much of an issue because the cut off isn't very wide so it cant clamp onto the back of the blade. But the feather boards also prevent it from happening. And finally I have the guard on which also has notch fingers to stop kick back. I know some are anal about dust collection and a table saw is difficult to get it all, but it is on and I am getting every thing I can, the vac and broom will have to do the rest.


The second cut I move the board over 4 1/4 inches plus one saw kerf which is an 8thof an inch The extra 1/4 is for material removal latter on. The move is 4 3/8ths. The sled and clamps stop the board from rocking or moving and the feather boards provide a rough enough surface so the piece being cut off can't get to sliding toward you because of a smooth surface on the saw's top. I can stop feeding anyplace in the cut and I am out if the throw of the machine when the cut is finished. You now have your first piece of you bench top cut out This is the safest way I know of to rip a rough board on a table saw.

DSC03860.JPGDSC03863.JPG DSC03864.JPG

Okay, you are a hobbyist and you are feeling fortunate to have been able to spend your Saturday afternoon in the shop. The families demands on you for time and demands is not a good word to use. tend to take away the time you would like to devote, so shop time is some what guarded, what now)


I put a hook in the end of the board and hang it on a cable in my shop or wherever you can put it. It keeps it off the floor, it allows for air to circulate all around it ( acclimate) You can visibly inspect it at anytime, You can write on it as to what detail it is so when you forget what it is, down the road you can find it., And most importantly it is allows the board to move and twist, take on moisture or give it off from freshly cut surfaces, and do what ever it is going to do, so that by the time you can get back to it you can use it.

DSC03865.JPG DSC03866.JPG


The most important message that I have put out so far is that it doesn't matter what you are building. I have completed as much of the parts that I could at the present through the roughing stages. I have not committed to any particular finished size. I can clean( sweep the shop and get rid of any wood that is left over that I cant use) and be be ready to continue when I can, next time.


To the beginner and even the intermittent woodworker. You can build anything if you follow a few simple guidelines. And I hop this helps.


To be continued>

[Tom Bussey]

Two more things, even if you already have purchased 2 x 10s at the big box, this process will work just as well for you. And I do not know why the first four pictures do not show up, they do while writing the post, if you can help me out by somehow making them visible I would appreciate it thank you in advance.

Also I prefer home made feather boards and plan on writing about them.

[Tom Bussey]

After the boards have hung at least overnight, select the nicest and straightest board.

This board is your money board, It needs to be flatten on the jointer if possible, not edged. It can be bowed but not cupped. Most of the time wood from the saw mill even though planes will have high and low spots, remove them as best it can be possibly be done. Then run the board through the planner. Again this board is the most important board in the build. However, shoddy work in the beginning will bleed through in the finish. So I would show the rest of the boards the same respect.

Now to the sled you saw earlier. I cut one side of the sled with the factory edge against the fence. Then I recut it using feather boards. Then I flipped it around and recut each edge a couple of times so I had the straightest most parallel piece of plywood I could possible make myself. I even used prefinished plywood. The plywood edge is not strong enough for a router bit with a bearing to ride against to many times . So I glued on hardwood edging. I treated that edging just like it was going to be seen in a book case or something. Sanded smooth and even finished.

One of the hardest things to do is to try and put a straight edge on a bowed piece of wood, using a jointer if the length of the wood is longer than the infeed table. The long edge that hang over the end of the infeed table is lower that the other two contact spots and raises the edge up as it slides over the table.

The easiest way to make it it straight is to clamp the board to the sled with only enough wood over hanging so that when the sled is turned over and a router with a ball bearing is used it can cut the entire length of the board without interruption. The sled can be used over and over again and again for the rest of your life so it is worth making and making well.

Next the board is recut at the table saw using a shavings or planning cut. Make sure to use the 3 feather boards mention in an earlier post.


DSC03894.JPG DSC03892.JPG DSC03891.JPG

It is a 1/2 dia. shank and a 3/4 flute dia. top and bottom bearing bit.

This needs to be continued. so come back

[Warren Lake]

I wouldnt hang boards, too much time, shop space whatever. Two horses and put two beams on the horses and put all your boards on edge so air gets around them. simple fast and easy.

If you are talking about a board that has been jointed and planed and now you are doing an edge the jointer is the machine to make a straight edge. If an operator thinks the jointer has to fit some formula to board length they are wrong. The only thing needed is skill and table support on infeed and outfeed. Joint your board with the crown edge down, start part way in picking where you will start hitting the crown, the flat will get longer each pass. Its operator skill and nothing more but for really long material you need support. Ive jointed up to 16 feet on the SCM combo and its only 69" long. The formula stuff is bunk. Ive zero interest using a router when a jointer is the right machine for the job.

you stated something in a previous post about outfeed tables. There are more than enough bad examples on the net. Id never work without an outfeed table though I do more than enough that is considered and is unsafe. Ive seen enough bad examples you tubes with no outfeeds even April she just edited her video when the material was going to drop or she was going to reach behind the blade to get it, no gaurd no riving knife. Im sure she has stuff right now. Other guys clearly had time on a saw no outfeed material dropping down angled to the floor length dependent then them reaching for it. Bad examples and there are enough of them.

Wood experts will tell you to acclimatize, Problem is you wait some days then machine and bingo you are at a new surface not where you were. Why did you bother. I once questioned a wood expert how much material he had run on machines and got no answer. He knew 1000 times technical aspects of wood that I know. They state the the only reason wood moves is moisture change. Hand me a perfectly straight board and ill run it through the planer once and it wont be straight. The change in shape is not do to moisture change. The wood is no longer straight because the tension has been changed, material that held it in one position is now gone from that pass through the machine and the wood now is concave slightly in that direction. There goes the statement that the only reason moves is cause of moisture changes.

[Scott Clausen]

Wood moves and keeps moving. Doesn't hurt to let it sit for awhile but yes, if you cut it further the process starts over. Tom, is this a laminated top? I have seen many people stress over biscuits for alignment but after deciding I, even after splitting into two halves, would never be able to run through my planner. I settled on clamping cauls and doing the entire top at once. Wasn't flat but flattish. The rest was done via hand plane. I enjoyed it so much I moved into the hand tool spectrum.

[Greg Funk]

All of you have been lied to for so long that it has become the truth. And the first thing that is usually stated is that wood has to be acclimated. when it arrives at home. It is an out and out lie. The only effect that moisture has on wood is size. You believe that moisture is the problem because it is always mentioned here on this forum and usually by those who want to appear to be knowledgeable.

I put a hook in the end of the board and hang it on a cable in my shop or wherever you can put it. It keeps it off the floor, it allows for air to circulate all around it ( acclimate) You can visibly inspect it at anytime, You can write on it as to what detail it is so when you forget what it is, down the road you can find it., And most importantly it is allows the board to move and twist, take on moisture or give it off from freshly cut surfaces, and do what ever it is going to do, so that by the time you can get back to it you can use it.

So you also see a benefit in letting wood acclimatize. If the wood is at an equilibrium state and has uniform moisture content throughout the piece, cutting it shouldn't matter much. There may be changes due to tension in the wood but it won't be due to changes in moisture.

[Scott Clausen]

I don't think most pieces are uniform moisture throughout. Seasons change so wood will be absorbing or releasing. Place a cut in the piece and what was deeper is now surface and can now do both faster. Thus the old adage, cut a piece true and flat today and lay it down. Tomorrow it will have moved. It's wood embrace it.

[Greg Funk]

I don't think most pieces are uniform moisture throughout. Seasons change so wood will be absorbing or releasing. Place a cut in the piece and what was deeper is now surface and can now do both faster. Thus the old adage, cut a piece true and flat today and lay it down. Tomorrow it will have moved. It's wood embrace it.

The rate of change in your shop over the course of a year is much lower than the step change that occurs when you bring wood in from an outdoor shed hence the recommendation for letting wood acclimatize.

[Tom Bussey]

I am going to reply to several comments here. First of all I let the wood hang so that there is no outside force restricting it from movement. Parts, which I call details, are more easily found than a part that is 3 levels down. I have been restricted to a basement shop for my first 40 years, Now I have had a larger shop for 10 years. Here in Iowa one has to have a dehumidifier in the basement. You can't even dry close without one very well. It will also cold in the winter so one need to have an outside heat source to be comfortable but drier. My disclaimer is my house was built just after WWII and there have been many advances in how they are made now in ever aspect. I used to acclimatize until I really thought about it. and m basement was not the best of invirement byt it was all I had.

In response to Greg's Post. No, I do not see the benefit of letting the wood acclimate. I do see the benefit of letting the wood relieve tension. Even if I let it acclimate for 3 years when I cut it it is still going to move. And if I put a stack outside and turn the garden hose on it and wet it down for a half hour. If I remove the top layer the wood underneath will remain dry.

Yes I agree with Scott, that wood cut today will have moved by tomorrow. But moisture effects only size. And it is a slow process that occurs over months not hours. Lets stop attributing everything to moisture content. Wood is going to move, twist and bow and cup because it is its nature and property to do so. Cut it larger than needed and let it do what it is going to do.

Even if you can't let moisture climatizing out of your head, let me ask you a question. If I need a board that is 4 inches wide and I cut it from a board that is 13 inches wide, Would it not be wise to cut it a little wider? Can I not rough cut a lot of wood clean up my shop and come back another day and semi finish and finish the piece. And if so, what difference does moisture play . If you have to climatize for 3 months what effect does that play if there is stress in the wood. Is is not better to cut the wood into rough sizes and let it normalize and climatize at the same time.

To Warren , I hang the wood on a hook, it is fast, simple and easy and it allows moisture to get around all six surfaces. But easier to find details than unstacking parts to find what you want and then restacking. As far as edging a board, all it that neeed is infeed and out feed supports and skill. as you claim. Skill is the key word here. I have a sled that is as straight as anybody can make it. Anyone, even a very beginner, can clamp a board to it and using a router with a ball bearing bit and cut a finished edge. My 12 year old granddaughter does it all the time in the shop to 8 foot boards. That is why I wrote what I did , which is so that even a beginner can cut a straight edge. If the board is longer than the length of the infeed table then I personally I think the sled is an easier and better choice.

My last question is who and what qualifies a person to be an expert. The experts in days gone, by said the earth was flat and if you sailed to far out you would fall off the earth. And yes Warren I agree with you about what you wrote in your last paragraph. And can it be that it is just the nature of the wood ( each have their own characteristics) and to the processes that the wood goes through to get it in the state that it is in when I get it and not blame it on moisture.

Again Moisture effects size only. What difference does the moisture content make to the wood when I am now just about to apply wood glue, which contains more moisture than the wood has seen since before it went into the kiln.

Research biscuit telegraphing because of moisture in the glue joint. Parts are sanded and finished and because the wood grew or wood fibers expanded from the glue, latter on when the wood dried out ,the fibers shrank back down and one could see the outline of the biscuit.

It makes no difference what the material is. I am a tool And Die maker. I apprenticed or was indentured as was stated in my contract. I made my living making one of a kind of tooling for industry. Most of what I made never existed before and I am trying to pass the information along. And what I am trying to pass on is no matter whether it is steel or wood the process is the same. Rough cut in batches, You can't go undersized if you leave it oversized. If you are going to rough cut then rough cut. a rough cut has nothing to do with a finish cut. Moisture has nothing to do with processes only size.