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Thread: Router table top

  1. #1

    Router table top

    Hi guys! Been a while, hope this finds everyone well.
    I have a question for everyone- what is your preferred material for a router table top?
    I’m getting ready to make a new one, but having trouble deciding between 2 layers of 3/4” mdf or 2 layers of 3/4” plywood.
    Either one will be laminated on both sides and have oak edge banding.
    Any advantage to either one over the other?
    Thanks
    Tom

  2. #2
    Forgot to mention- I live in central Illinois, and my shop is not climate controlled. It’s hot and humid in summer, and cold and dry in winter. Only use heater when I’m out there.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    I recently made a new router cabinet and for the top I used 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF and glued formica on both top and bottom. And yes, hardwood banding all the way around. MDF will be much more consistent in thickness than plywood, especially today's plywood. And, of course, it's much cheaper.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Ziebron View Post
    I recently made a new router cabinet and for the top I used 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF and glued formica on both top and bottom. And yes, hardwood banding all the way around. MDF will be much more consistent in thickness than plywood, especially today's plywood. And, of course, it's much cheaper.
    I get the formica on the top but why on the bottom too? Just curious. I have plans for a router table but just can't seen to find the time or will to build it.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Clausen View Post
    I get the formica on the top but why on the bottom too? Just curious. I have plans for a router table but just can't seen to find the time or will to build it.
    If the bottom also has formica( or backer) it seals it against moisture.

  6. #6
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    Feb 2007
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    southeast Michigan
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    If using regular wood or plywood and cover with formica you are correct in that it seals against moisture to keep the top from warping for the same reason you always apply finish to both top and bottom of projects like a table top. This probably isn't necessary if using MDF like I did but I think of it as insurance.

  7. #7
    When I built mine (18 years ago) I used 3/4" mdf with 3/4" melamine for the top. It's lasted well over the years.
    IMG_6256.jpg

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Weber View Post
    When I built mine (18 years ago) I used 3/4" mdf with 3/4" melamine for the top. It's lasted well over the years.
    IMG_6256.jpg
    Melamine is a nice idea, where did you get yours? I think I remember there is thicker better quality melamine sheet good available through non-Borg sources such as lumber yards or plywood suppliers. SWMBO bought some 'Euro' furniture that was melamine but much thicker smoother coating than what's available in the big box stores.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Hayes, Virginia
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    14,760
    I have router table extensions on both sides of my table saw that are machined commercially manufactured steel. Both have router raisers installed, both perfectly flat and they are amazing quality. My preference in the past was to use solid surface material for router tops and when I find the time I have everything I need to build another solid surface router table. Hard plastic that is very smooth makes the best routing surface for the work that I do and I don't use a router raiser for solid surface router tables. I like not having a large hole or having an insert for routing small plaques, often several hundred at a time. I wax the solid surface top so the plaques slide without effort when I route the edges. I will also use a pin router attachment on the new router table, this adds a lot of flexibility not having to use bits with bearings. I have acquired a 3/4" thick piece of Corian for the new table top, just need to decide on the frame I am going to build.

    My shop is heated and air conditioned but I still have to deal with periods of high humidity, another reason for a solid surface table top.

    Pics of my existing steel router extensions and what will be a better solution for my shop.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #10
    I bought my sheets at one of the BORGs.
    Standard 49" x 97" x 3/4" sheet.
    The melamine on the sheet goods is much more durable than the pre-cut closet boards and similar products. That's been my experience
    I've also used it for out-feed and drill press tables with great results, though I can't vouch for the quality of what's available today.
    Good luck

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,469
    Mine is built into the out feed of a K3 slider.

    From my website ...

    The base
    for the router table was a laminated high pressure MDF kitchen bench off cut from a kitchen maker ...





    Screws are used for levelling …







    track installed for the fence …






    Details here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered...Adventure.html

    ... including building a fence ...





    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  12. #12
    Join Date
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    odessa, missouri
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    Particle Board…

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Kansas City
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    What Derek said. My first table was made using cutouts of solid surface kitchen counter material. A local kitchen remodeler sold them for $2-3. He said he kept them (from sink cutouts) just for people wanting them for this purpose. Dead flat, easy to clean and sturdy. I think you can find leftover counter material (granite even) at Habitat Restore or sometimes at the big box stores as well.
    < insert spurious quote here >

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Krueger View Post
    If the bottom also has formica( or backer) it seals it against moisture.
    No, that;s not the main reason. A two layer sandwich will warp when the different materials expand or contract differently, like a bi-metalic thermostat. Adding the third layer provides an equal warping force in the opposite direction if the two outside layers are the same, Voila, no net warp!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    New Westminster BC
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    If price is an issue (and when isn't it?) pick up a free treadmill on Craigslist. The base will likely be 3/4 or thicker high density particle board with high pressure laminate on both sides. Super stiff and flat. As a bonus you get a variable speed DC motor that you can repurpose for many applications (lathe, drill press, sander etc, wonder if anyone has made a router from one?)

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