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Thread: I bought an old Unisaw.... now I have to get it home

  1. #16
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    Mar 2003
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    Zachary, with UHaul, it's best to make a reservation using their online system. It will redirect you to an alternative location if what you need isn't available and offer alternatives, such as the very common 5x8 trailer. Even if you have to pick up at an alternative site, you can usually return to your local one if it's pre-arranged.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
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    Apr 2005
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    Central MA
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    I just recently bought a '46 unisaw myself. I had it dismantled and packed into the back of my forester by myself in less than a half hour. A saw of that vintage will need to be torn down for cleaning and refresh anyways, no harm at all in doing it before transport.

    Also, if youre not going to remove the motor its best to transport a Unisaw upside down. There are plenty of reports of broken castings from folks who didnt.
    Last edited by John Lanciani; 07-08-2022 at 7:21 PM.

  3. #18
    If you rent a trailer, be sure to keep receipt. Don't forget mileage to get and drop off trailer. Other driver's insurance should cover that. As for you getting a new tongue, is other's driver's insurance going to pay you for time and expenses? They should. When I moved my Uni, I removed wings ( no fence,) and flipped it upside onto an old tire in the bed of the truck. Strapped it own, and off I went. Unload was reverse of loading.
    Last edited by Bruce Wrenn; 07-08-2022 at 9:06 PM.

  4. #19
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    Mar 2018
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    Piercefield, NY
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    Thanks for all of the good ideas. That's very encouraging about fitting one in a Forester. Is it just hex bolts and nuts to take one of these apart or are there other things that would require more tools? I am hoping that the other party's insurance company will pay out something worthwhile, but I have no idea. I am just an individual, and it's probably not worth getting a lawyer for this even if I could find one that was interested in taking it on.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
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    Mid-Michigan
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachary Hoyt View Post
    Thanks for all of the good ideas. That's very encouraging about fitting one in a Forester. Is it just hex bolts and nuts to take one of these apart or are there other things that would require more tools? I am hoping that the other party's insurance company will pay out something worthwhile, but I have no idea. I am just an individual, and it's probably not worth getting a lawyer for this even if I could find one that was interested in taking it on.
    All hex bolts: 1/2", 9/16" & 5/8". You'll also need needle nose pliers for the motor pivot rod and a set of allen wrenches for the handwheels. The motor fixing bolt might actually be 3/4".

  6. #21
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    Mar 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Fenneuff View Post
    All hex bolts: 1/2", 9/16" & 5/8". You'll also need needle nose pliers for the motor pivot rod and a set of allen wrenches for the handwheels. The motor fixing bolt might actually be 3/4".
    Thank you, very much, that'll make packing tools a lot easier.

  7. #22
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    Apr 2005
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    Central MA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachary Hoyt View Post
    Thank you, very much, that'll make packing tools a lot easier.
    And the biggest flat head screw driver you have for the fence bolts. You'll also need to either cut or disconnect the cord from the switch to the motor to remove it.

  8. #23
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    Mar 2018
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    Piercefield, NY
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    Thanks, that'll be good to know. I have some pretty big screwdrivers, and will also take some normal ones to disconnect the cord. I'll mark the wiring so I know how to put it back on the right terminals. Now I've just got to wait for the bid to be approved, and then maybe I can go get it next Friday, or if not then the following one, I hope.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
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    You can get one to have good dust control, but not like it sits stock. Mine is not quite that old, but old enough to share a lot.

    There are gaps all around, under the top where it sits on the base that need to be stuffed with something. Every open space anywhere could be caulked from the inside while you have the top off. I never took the top off of mine, so all those places are just covered with blue tape.

    The tilt slot on mine is now covered by a couple of pieces of magnetic sheet, with a cutout to go around the wheel shaft. They are easily moved whenever a blade tilt is needed.

    Mine didn't come with a motor cover. I built a wooden box with slide in tracks for a 12x12 furnace filter. The filter is not to keep anything out, but rather to allow air to be drawn in, and sawdust not get thrown out. It works well. I can run the saw for over an hour, and the motor never gets warm. All intake air is drawn over the motor, which also keeps it pretty clear of dust.

    The bottom of the base is completely open. If it's going to sit on a mobile base, like mine, there needs to be a cover made that can fit inside the cabinet.

    I also have an overarm dust pickup. We can use it inside a house with a 3hp DC, and no dust gets on anything.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Eagle, WI
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    130
    I don’t have anything to offer about transporting the saw. Instead, I am just enjoying reading the efforts and contributions of others in order to help a fellow member solve a problem. Getting the saw home feels a bit like a modern day version of a small scale barn raising. Zach, I hope your adventure comes off without a hitch (or should that be “with a new hitch”).

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    Modesto, CA, USA
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    I would cut the cord as close to the motor as possible. On the bench at home add a new cord to the motor and install a twist lock connector to both cords. How old is the saw? How old is the cord insulation?
    bill D

  12. #27
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    Mar 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Mich View Post
    I don’t have anything to offer about transporting the saw. Instead, I am just enjoying reading the efforts and contributions of others in order to help a fellow member solve a problem. Getting the saw home feels a bit like a modern day version of a small scale barn raising. Zach, I hope your adventure comes off without a hitch (or should that be “with a new hitch”).
    SMC is a great community, and many people have been very kind in answering my questions and making suggestions, not only in this thread but in many others where I've asked for help over the years.

    I will cut the cord if I have to, but if I can disconnect it fairly easily I'd rather do that, and I can find out about the cord condition then. The cord to the switch looks newish in the pictures, but I don't think the short cord is visible, or if it is I didn't notice it.

  13. #28
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    Feb 2014
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    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
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    If you end up taking the top off, mark it so you can put it back in exactly the same place. I think there may be enough play in the holes in the cabinet to matter. They're to allow for aligning the top, but it would be extra effort to get it not only aligned to the blade, but also the same distance from the slots when the blade is both straight up, and tilted. I'm not absolutely sure that's an issue, but think it could be.

  14. #29
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    Mar 2018
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    Thanks, I'll take a marker and use it on the underside if needed. I'll first just check if the blade is parallel to the slots, because if it isn't there's no reason to replicate the misalignment. So far my experience of buying tools from school auctions is that they have had some pretty goofy work done to them, like the V belt on the Reeves drive on the drill press, or the completely non-functional homemade fence on the bandsaw. The scroll saw was new enough that it maybe hadn't been worked on, or else whoever did did a good job.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
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    U-haul 5x8 utility trailer. $26.95 with insurance and tax for 24 hours. The 4x7 is about $4.00 less per day. AAA never got back to me about if my car insurance covered a rental trailer or not. So $8.00 for the trailer insurance
    Due to the location of the switch box just below a bolt a ratcheting box wrench made removing one corner bolt much easier.
    Bill D
    Last edited by Bill Dufour; 07-10-2022 at 12:36 AM.

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