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Thread: New turner - advice on next steps

  1. #1

    New turner - advice on next steps

    I took a three day course a month or so back and really enjoyed turning. The next step is to plunge in and get a lathe, a chuck, some tools and start making shavings. The advice I was given and intuited from my course was to get the largest and heaviest lathe you can as the small stuff can be created on a large lathe but large stuff can't be done on a small lathe. Unless the collective wisdom of the forum convinces me otherwise, after a lot of internet searching the Laguna 1836 seems to be at the price point that won't ruin the marriage. The Super Nova 2 appears to be a chuck that would keep me occupied for a while although I am confused as to the threading. The Laguna is a 1 1/4 x 8 TPI and I am not sure I know the threading of the chuck. I know I'll need the 50 mm jaws and cole jaws. I'll have to decide on tools but am inclined to bite the bullet and get the best I can at this time.

    So, what am I missing? Any advice re: the lathe?

    Am I missing anything regarding the chuck? Although there are a number of packages with the Super Nova 2, they don't seem to include both cole jaws and the 50 mm/2 inch jaws.

    Finally, I'm looking around the shop and the house for things I can make round. I'm struck by the large stack of pecan firewood that I have dry and under cover. Although not "square" is there any reason that I can't play with smaller pieces of that pecan even though not symmetrical? A faceplate could easily secure such a piece, I think.

  2. #2
    When you buy a supernova you buy an insert with it that fits in the chuck, so you'll want to buy the 1 1/4 x 8tpi threaded insert. It's pretty standard these days. Not sure if the supernova comes as a direct thread option.
    I had a laguna 1224 and liked it, never tried a bigger one. I've got a nova saturn lathe. I like it but it's a little light weight. I added a shelf on the legs and every time I do a lead sleeve removal on a large phone cable I add another 40 to 80 pounds to it.
    Sounds like your pecan firewood would make good spindle practice as long as it's safe and not cracked.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    E TN, near Knoxville
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    12,298
    I wrote something then lost it with an internet problem - I’ll try again.

    I see Russell wrote about the chuck inserts. I prefer chucks with inserts since I can simply switch out the insert and use the chuck on a different lathe, or loan it to someone with a different lathe. Most of my chucks are SN2 and they do everything I need. I do have a variety of jaws for both large and small things.

    I have the Cole jaws and used them for a short while then took them off and never used them again. They are very limited in the size and shape of what then can effectively hold. I far prefer other methods for holding - most of what I like to turn can’t be held in Cole jaws. I haven’t seen a bundle that includes the Cole jaws.

    You can easily turn firewood (and tree limbs), but if split it’s better turned with the grain aligned with the lathe bed, often called “end grain” turning or spindle turning. The blank is not best held with a faceplate since screws don’t always hold well in end grain. Better to turn it between centers or even better, temporarily hold it between centers and turn a tenon on one end to hold securely in the chuck while supporting the other end with the tailstock, at least temporarily.

    BTW, although many people start by turning bowls, often from green wood, some respected experts recommend a new turner become proficient with spindle turning before moving to bowls or platters (face turning, where the gran runs across the face of the blank, perpendicular to the lathe bed). Spindle turning can quickly teach you the fine tool control that will let you turn anything.

    I personally prefer to turn relatively small things from dry wood. If you want to take a look I have a photo album here on SMC with three pages of some examples: https://sawmillcreek.org/album.php?albumid=862

    If you have a bandsaw you can cut turning blanks from green wood tree sections, let them dry, and you will soon have more useful wood that you can turn! I’ve been doing that for a long time. A few pictures here: https://sawmillcreek.org/album.php?albumid=983

    After the lathe and the basic turning tools, I think the bandsaw is the most important tool for a woodturner.

    I don’t have experience with the lathe you mentioned but from what I’ve read it should be fine.

    Also, you might put your location in your profile here - there may well be turners near you who would gladly give you some useful wood to get started. The best possible thing is to join a local turning club. They typically have a lot of people ready to answer question and help any way they can. Clubs can be a good source of turning wood.

    JKJ

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    Wayland, MA
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    My best and strongest advice is to join your local AAW chapter. This will provide you with mentors, opportunities to visit different shops and try different lathes, sources for used machines and tools as well, likely, as free wood. Our chapter, for example, provides loaner lathes, chucks and tools to new turners to allow them to get their feet wet and see what they like doing prior to investing in a machine of their own. If you fall in love with pen turning you don't necessarily need a 3 ton lathe. If you find segmenting suits your fancy you may want to prioritize other tools that allow you to make accurate segmented rings over the lathe itself.

  5. #5
    I would second what John K. says about Cole jaws. Mine are gathering dust. A simple friction chuck will allow you to reverse turn most forms.

    Also, join a club and/or find a mentor if you can. It helps in sourcing wood as well as sharing experiences. Following the AAW forum can be helpful too. I have learned a lot from Youtube videos by Brian Havens, Lyle Jamieson, Al Hockenbery, John Lucas, Robo Hippy, Cyndi Drozda and Mike Waldt among others. Remember, practice makes permanent, so follow a good model to avoid bad habits.

    Do you have a sharpening system? A slow speed bench grinder with CBN wheels and a Wolverine jig system or similar is a good investment.

    Good steel is worth paying for. You can do a lot with a bowl gouge, a spindle gouge and a parting tool.

    Be prepared to see your investment in a lathe eclipsed by tools and gadgets. Worse than a shaper.

    Be safe. Wear a face shield and stay out of the line of fire.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    SW Missouri
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    60
    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Nordyke View Post

    Am I missing anything regarding the chuck? Although there are a number of packages with the Super Nova 2, they don't seem to include both cole jaws and the 50 mm/2 inch jaws.
    https://woodworkerspecialties.biz/pr...e-with-insert/
    .... Dave

    Old carvers never die.... they just whittle away.

  7. #7
    Thanks for the advice! I'm probably going to pull the trigger on the Laguna next week. Is there any particular advice as to brand/model of face shield?

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post

    I have the Cole jaws and used them for a short while then took them off and never used them again. They are very limited in the size and shape of what then can effectively hold. I far prefer other methods for holding - most of what I like to turn can’t be held in Cole jaws. I haven’t seen a bundle that includes the Cole jaws.

    JKJ
    "They are very limited in the size and shape of what then can effectively hold"

    This is just factually untrue.
    By changing the buttons or buffers, whatever you want to call them, a wide variety of non- circular shapes can be held. By adding wooden sub-jaws, you open up another large range of items that can be held.
    While they don't hold "everything" and nothing does, I wouldn't dismiss them out of hand. There is almost no limit to the shape of jaws you can make.

    Just an example of jaws for spheres, cubes and 24" flat jaws
    Square-1.jpgsIMG_3999.jpgIMG_2209 (600 x 400).jpg

    http://www.woodturnersresource.com/c...1502986843/all

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    E TN, near Knoxville
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    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Weber View Post
    "They are very limited in the size and shape of what then can effectively hold"

    This is just factually untrue.
    Actually my statement is factually true for standard “off the shelf” Nova Cole jaws - in my experience and opinion, of course. Yours may differ.

    And yes, we can always build something that will hold things the std Cole jaws cannot. Much depends on the exact piece turned.

    Keith,
    There is a book that covers lots of holding methods, great ideas for starting out.
    Fixtures and Chucks for Woodturning by Doc Green
    https://smile.amazon.com/Fixtures-Ch.../dp/1565235193

    JKJ

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Adelaide Hills, Australia
    Posts
    383
    Cole jaws wouldn't be a priority for me if I was still in the early stages of setting up.

    Mine are rarely used, however, they do come out occasionally where they are the quickest holding method at some stages on some projects, but not essential.

    If at a later stage you think you do need them it is very easy to make your own flat Cole jaws, like the 3rd photo in Edward's post, in ply, plastic or metal.

    And, if you are into DIY projects, there are many plans out there on how to make the Longworth version that was developed down our way...

    https://www.carbatec.com.au/article/...ongworth-chuck
    Neil

    About the same distance from most of you heading East or West.

    It's easy to see the Dunning-Kruger Effect in others, but a bit of a conundrum when it comes to yourself...



  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    sykesville, maryland
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    861
    I too think that cole jaws would be a low priority purchase item. Once you've invested every penny you have in all the other stuff you'll "need", then you can buy some cole jaws . My experience with the Nova Cole's is that the stock buttons don't hold so well. I replaced mine with one-way buttons - much better hold. And yes you can make taller "buttons" in a number of different fashions for the rare time that you'll need them. Many just jam chuck instead. I have 2 SN2's and a titan III. Descent chucks for the money but not as good as my vicmarc 120. The jaw quality difference is markedly obvious.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Adelaide Hills, Australia
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    383
    Quote Originally Posted by tom lucas View Post
    My experience with the Nova Cole's is that the stock buttons don't hold so well. I replaced mine with one-way buttons - much better hold.
    I replaced my buttons with soft white rubber caps (the sort you push onto the bottom of chair legs and walking sticks) fitted over short lengths of unused broom stick. They grip well and don't mark a finished surface...
    Neil

    About the same distance from most of you heading East or West.

    It's easy to see the Dunning-Kruger Effect in others, but a bit of a conundrum when it comes to yourself...



  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northeastern OK
    Posts
    301
    Don't overlook dust protection along with a solid face shield. I went with the Trend Airshield to get benefit of face protection and dust filtration in a positive air pressure environment. No face shield fog up occurs so reasonably comfortable to use (about the same weight as a welding helmet).
    Alternately, wear N95 dust masks along with your faceshield. Masks with one way valves are comfortable and perfectly appropriate in the workshop.

  14. #14
    IMO,
    Cole Jaws are simply a blank canvas to make them anything you want. you can endlessly modify them to fit your needs.
    It makes no difference to me what people use to hold their work but for someone starting out, I wouldn't discourage them from trying anything. Who knows. the OP may find cole jaws as useful as I do.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Wayland, MA
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    3,655
    I use my cole jaws a lot less now that I have a vacuum chuck, but found them indispensable for certain tasks before that. The pyramidal "buttons" on the Vicmarc are much more effective than the typical round buttons. I still use them when the wood won't hold a vacuum well.

    That said they wouldn't be on my list of first things to acquire. You can do vey well with a friction drive where the workpiece is held between centers using a non-marring surface on the drive end, or by making jam chucks that exactly fit your bowl on either the inside or outside diameter. Cole jaws (and the other variants like doughnut or Longworth), vacuum chucks, and true jam chucks are the ways I know of to have unrestricted access to the bottom of your bowl for finishing. Most people get by fine with friction drives and not being able to easily reach and shape the inside rim of the foot.

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