Is this Japanese Chisel finished?

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I inherited a Japanese chisel that was highly abused. Looked like it lost a battle with a nail (as just one example of abuse). I removed rust and then ground out the nail and the back now looks like this:

jap_01.jpg

Before grinding the hollow was not to the edge, now it is. I assume that the chisel is finished. or is it expected that I will "flatten" the back until that hollow at the edge is no longer at the edge and things are flat all the way across.

I considered just pitching this chisel and I considered keeping it around for when I thought something had a nail or I wanted to open paint cans (ok, no paint cans, but you get the idea).

[David Bassett]

Search here for "tapping out" (and maybe variations of that.)

Warning YMMV! I've never done it and it sounds intimidating.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

That was the pointer that I needed.

Looks like you can tap a plane blade but you "flatten" the back and wear down to the hollow that is fully contained in the "hard" metal.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....hisel-question

the above link references this:

https://giantcypress.net/post/931326...tful-of-hollow

So it looks like I can simply flatten the back to the point where the hollow is no longer at the edge. Not sure I want to take the time to do that..... I might.... Hmmm...

Thanks, this was what I needed to know.

[chuck van dyck]

Tapping out will make it go much faster than trying to remove all that steel. Its pretty simple. Support the back of the chisel with something (hardwood end grain works well) and tap the mid upper section of the bevel all the way across a bunch of times. Keyword…tap. There’s so little surface contact on the back compared to a western chisel, I’d start with a 1200 dmt or 1000 water just till the front edge is fully scratched up, then 8k and done. The marks from the hammer will come out easily as thats soft steel.
Aim for like 1/16 flat across the front.

[Derek Cohen]

Andrew, there is nothing wrong with that chisel. It should take about 10 minutes to lap the back and create a flat behind the edge. Start with a 300 grit diamond plate, then 600 grit, and 1000 grit. Once you get to 8000, you should only need to touch it up with this stone in future.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Andrew, there is nothing wrong with that chisel. It should take about 10 minutes to lap the back and create a flat behind the edge. Start with a 300 grit diamond plate, then 600 grit, and 1000 grit. Once you get to 8000, you should only need to touch it up with this stone in future.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks, I will give it a go.

There is some sentimental association with the chisel so it is worth taking some time to make it usable. it started as a rusted mess. It was used on a dock by my best friend's Father. All of us were very close.

[Tom Bender]

With all that pitting, will you ever get a good edge?

Either way tapping it out will be a good exercise.

Show us the handle.

[Derek Cohen]

Tom, I suspect the rust-related pitting is on the surface only. Lapping is needed to remove the unhealthy steel. I do not see tapping out as helpful here.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Andrew Hughes]

Some of my Japanese chisels only have a small flat area between the edge and hollow. I maintain the small flat during sharpening sessions.
I’ve seen the tapping out videos looks like a good way to ruin a chisel.
Good Luck