FS - July 4 and "Retirement" sale - P. S. & W. Co. 10" drawknife

[John Keeton]

This one and the G. I. Mix & Co. 8" that was just listed for sale will be the last drawknives I intend to rehab and sell. I am "retiring" from trying to acquire the good brands and spend time getting them back into usable shape. While I enjoy the process, and seeing a usable knife emerge from what may appear to be a piece of junk, it takes way too much time and effort and I have other things I want and need to do in the time the good Lord has left for me!

The origin of the Peck, Stow & Wilcox Co. dates back to 1797. In that year Seth Peck, of Southington, Conn., commenced the manufacture of Tinsmiths' Machines, to take the place of hand tools exclusively used by tinsmiths before that date. By gradual growth the following firms grew out of various partnerships that involved Peck including: Seth Peck & Co., O. & X. Peck, Peck, Smith & Co. and the Peck-Smith Mfg. Co. Up to this time the sole manufacture was tinsmiths' tools and machines. By 1870 the S. Stow Mfg. Co. of Plantsville, and the Roys & Wilcox Co. of East Berlin were competitors in that business. In December 1870, these three firms united and formed a joint stock company under the name of the Peck, Stow & Wilcox Co. Around 1914 the company began using the name PEXTO. They have always been known as a manufacturer of fine edge tools.

I have refinished the handles and oriented them so that the preferable use of the knife is bevel down, though it can be used bevel up without discomfort. I find bevel down to be more functional - at least for the chair work I do. I have formed a nice bevel on the face of the blade and the knife is extremely sharp. My custom blade guard is included.

$45, plus actual shipping. If that is too much for you, then I understand but it is worth that to me and I will keep the knife. If the last several months have told us anything, they won't be any cheaper or easier for you to acquire in the future. Payment by personal check. I prefer to ship you the knife, and if you like it send me a check. If you don't, then ship it back to me and pay me nothing.

[John Keeton]

This one is sold!

[Peter Bovey]

How do you go about sharpening your draw knives, if you don't mind me asking? I've been keeping a eye out for what turns up on eBay, and there seems to be quite a few, and they get snatched up readily. I use guides for most of my sharpening for the consistency in edge angle they provide, though I have not looked into a guide for draw knives as yet.

[John Keeton]

Peter, I sent you an email.

[Scott Winners]

Since you are retiring, I don't think anyone would mind seeing your draw knife sharpening tips as a thread here. I own four of yours. Two I have used to the point they need to be sharpened, the other two have not touched wood since they arrived at my house so I can see where to sharpen the dull pair to. As shipped, your draw knives are uniformly a pleasure to use. From published online methods, I am inclined to imitate the chairmaker in the Charlotte, NC area whose name is currently not on the tip of my tongue. Some kind of guide on his bench grinder. His youtube makes it appear draw knife sharpening is just drudgery that has to be done, sort of like washing dishes by hand or mowing the lawn.

[John Keeton]

Scott, I have no reservations on sharing my sharpening methods for drawknives. Perhaps at some point I will find time to do a PDF with images and post it in the Neander forum. Perhaps as a "one liner" I should just say once I sharpen a drawknife I never again take it to a grinder. From that point it is all about simply maintaining a razor sharp edge with minimal work.