You have not bothered to show photos of the sled, which could be the problem.
You have not bothered to show photos of the sled, which could be the problem.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Do you have similar problems with other cuts? Try crosscutting with a miter gage, do you get same result? Are your rip cuts with the fence ok?
Last edited by Lee Schierer; 06-20-2022 at 3:20 PM.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
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My crosscut sled was causing some minor burning on really wide boards like plywood but not on narrower boards. I had tested mine with the 5 cut method (with a narrower board) and it was dead square. My miter slot was also square to the blade and tested with a dial indicator. Eventually I attached my dial indicator to front middle and rear of the sled and checked while sliding the sled. I found that the Kreg aluminum miter slot runner I used was bowed on the rear end and that was causing the burning. With narrower boards the bow had already went past the end of the miter slot and so the cuts were square.
OK, well this is really bothering me. This implies that the saw blade is altering its plane of operation when the front portion comes out of the wood. With stabilizers that should not be happening. Now I'm looking at the blade plate, bearings, or belts. Bear with me. This is only my second guess ;-)
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
Samuel Butler
The saw blades get warped from heat, pinched by reaction wood ,etc. For years we had an excellent saw guy who would check every blade
on a a machined steel plate before sharpening. Used an egg timer to check time, if he straightened saw before it timed out there was no
charge.