Cheap hold down clamp option for a Grizzly slider

[Phillip Mitchell]

Phil. a couple of questions

Do you use an F&F jig?

Do you work to the right of the blade setting dimension on the rip fence for any cuts at all?

Yes and yes. I would consider a F&F a version of a clamp, but who’s counting? I guess my only point was that something like the Kreg clamp is so quick, easy, and relatively affordable to adapt to most any slider - why not use it to increase accuracy, safety, and tension in your body and work flow? No biggie as I have tried many different ways and know that clamps work for me on a slider.

I use the rip fence as a stop often as well as a pair of flip stops on the crosscut fence left of blade. What does this have to do with clamp or no clamp?

[Mike Kees]

I use Kreg Automax on my saw as well. Where you need clamps is straight line ripping edges of lumber. I have the factory ripping shoe for my saw and never use it, because the clamps are quicker. I also use them to make my initial straight line on 4x8 panels as well. Occasionally I will position my Fritz and Franz in the middle of my wagon held in place by a clamp. Once you have them uses become more apparent, I would not go back to not using clamps. I also do not get hung up on which side of the blade I am working on. They put a rip fence on sliders for more than just a bump stop. When cutting cabinet parts I will usually set my rip fence for one dimension and the flip stop on my wagon for the other (rectangular pieces) then cut one dimension and flip to cut the next one. Ripping panels with the fence (right side of blade) is still greatly aided by sliding even if only partially on the wagon.

[Kevin Jenness]

I use a clamp maybe 5% of the time. Clamping the front edge of a sheet and holding it down at the back by hand helps to ensure contact with the scoring blade when used. I use a ripping shoe, but it's at least 8"long so for pieces maxing out the table length I'll use a clamp at the front (and at the back for narrow pieces). For radical tapers that don't lend themselves to using F&F or the crosscut fence I will mark out the cut line, extend the end points down the edges so I can reference off the wagon or a zero clearance surface taped to it, clamp front and back and make the cut. I also use the rip fence as a rip fence as well as a bump stop. When ripping narrow cabinet parts the last cut on the sheet gets cut with the rip fence extended forward, as do rips longer than the wagon travel. There's more ways to the woods than one.

[Chris Parks]

There's more ways to the woods than one.

Very definitely and a discussion of different methods allows us to see alternative ways of working. For me a long rip fence on the machine is nothing more than a damned nuisance as I rarely use it full length and it is either retracted so I have to walk around it or pushed full forward and I then have to work around the fence and the overhead guard to retrieve small off cuts. Not having the rip fence on the machine except when needed clears the whole table on the right hand side. I have asked a question surrounding the use of clamps and related my way of working, nothing more or less and would not criticise anyone for using clamps if that makes them feel safe or gives them a better result. Accuracy has never been a problem for me but others obviously get a better result when using clamps and so be it.

[Kevin Jenness]

Very definitely and a discussion of different methods allows us to see alternative ways of working. For me a long rip fence on the machine is nothing more than a damned nuisance as I rarely use it full length and it is either retracted so I have to walk around it or pushed full forward and I then have to work around the fence and the overhead guard to retrieve small off cuts. Not having the rip fence on the machine except when needed clears the whole table on the right hand side. I have asked a question surrounding the use of clamps and related my way of working, nothing more or less and would not criticise anyone for using clamps if that makes them feel safe or gives them a better result. Accuracy has never been a problem for me but others obviously get a better result when using clamps and so be it.

So how do you manage some of the situations I referred to above - long rips, odd tapers, holding down bowed material - without a rip fence or clamps?

[Chris Parks]

So how do you manage some of the situations I referred to above - long rips, odd tapers, holding down bowed material - without a rip fence or clamps?

I do use the rip fence about twice a year and it only takes 30 seconds to change over from one to the other so it is not inconvenient. Most stuff I rip, angle cuts etc can be done on the sliding table clamped by the F&F jig as I rarely cut sheet goods I make up the story as I go. I do use clamps on the odd occasion for instance if I am cutting a bevel clamping is necessary to ensure that the bevel width is constant along the cut. Holding angle cuts is done using the F&F jig and I have never had an issue doing that though at first glance it does not seem a good thing to do. The Original video posted to YT shows the F&F jig being used for angle cuts and I find it works well.

I can't see how a bent panel can be clamped, certainly it is impossible on my saw unless the panel was quite small and then I would just lean on it with my hand to flatten it. I have looked at the idea of using a bent caul along the length of the table for bent panels but I don't encounter the problem enough to do any more than think about it. As I emphasised before my methods might not suit others but a discussion on methods is always a good thing and in the past there have been some really interesting threads on sliders and it was during one of those discussions that someone found the F&F jig developed that was first used in Germany.

Euro machinery hacks, mods, and add-ons...

Hammer K3 Winner - What I've learned in the last 6 months - Page 2

This a good watch, I don't think Sam ever uses an F&F jig but he does not seem to use many clamps either.

(1) Jigs, rigs and techniques for cutting Small Parts on a Sliding Table Saw - YouTube

A bit of topic is this thread on parallel positioners some might find interesting

Fritz & Franz jig vs parallel positioner? (sawmillcreek.org)

[Kevin Jenness]

Yes, there are a variety of approaches to using this versatile machine. Most of the cabinetmakers I have worked with would use the rip fence pushed forward in conjunction with the slider and push the ripped piece past the blade rather than adjust the fence fore and aft while dicing up sheet goods. I don't do it that way but it was safe enough and productive and I would never think to tell them they were doing it wrong.

One specialized jig using clamps is for veneer jointing. A zero clearance panel the length of the wagon is keyed to the table groove while an upper platen is raise and lowered by screw clamps on vertical dowels to allow inserting a stack of veneer leaves. A curved caul above the upper platen spreads clamp pressure along the top platen's length while rubber weatherstripping on its underside allows for minor irregularities. The stack is held tight and flat to result in a straight sawn edge free of tearout and ready for taping.

The curved caul works well but if overclamped can bend the table enough to cause drag, illustrating the need for moderation when using clamps. Seriously bowed material should be cut on the bandsaw or in some other way, but clamps can tame slightly warped stock enough to cut it safely and accurately on the slider.