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Thread: Help with epoxy

  1. #1
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    Help with epoxy

    Long time lurker, but I donít have much time to check in here anymore, much less actually play with my tools. But I got the itch and decided to build my daughter a jewelry box. Everything was going smoothly until today when I went to cut some spline grooves in the frame. The box fell and hit the floor while I was getting the cut set up. I thought it was just the back corner that got dinged up, but after I cut the grooves for the splines, I found the top edge was split all the way through. Iíd really rather not have to make this entire frame again and was wondering if there was a good epoxy that will hide it or whether even wood glue would work. At least itís a clean break, if I can find something thin enough to bond it back together, I doubt anyone will ever even be able to tell. Iíll attempt to post some pics.

  2. #2
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    Well, I canít figure out how to post pics from my iPad. Is there a size limit?

  3. #3
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  4. #4
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    To post or see pics you must be a contributor. Only 6 bucks a year. If it’s a clean split along the grain regular wood glue will work just fine.
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  5. #5
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  6. #6
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    A9C0DD34-686B-4852-B383-0856B4F75E5B.jpeg So I got this one on, but I donít know how. Somehow it worked for this one, but canít get the split to upload.

  7. #7
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    C10CF847-74C6-4E1A-9876-8E72C7017CFC.jpeg Oh, there it is! If I click around enough, it somehow loads!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casey Carr View Post
    C10CF847-74C6-4E1A-9876-8E72C7017CFC.jpeg Oh, there it is! If I click around enough, it somehow loads!
    Casey, I would use regular PVA glue to fix that corner. You can work the glue down into the crack with dental floss. Use a moderate amount of glue and clean up any squeeze out as soon as you get the piece clamped. The crack should be virtually invisible once the glue sets up.

    Note: You can post up to 8 photos in any one post. I find that on my tablet I have to use the "Full Site" mode to accurately see photos and to edit. You can access "Full Site" mode by scrolling to the bottom of any page on your mobile device. YMMV on an ipad....
    Lee Schierer
    Captain USN(Ret)

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  9. #9
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    Thank you, Lee! Iíll get some gorilla glue tomorrow and see what I can do. I think it will be close to invisible if I do it right.

  10. #10
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    Or will titebond ii work? Only issue I see is it doesnít dry clear, but I shouldnít need much.

  11. #11
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    I would use Titebond 1. If you can test clamp the crack shut dry the glue line will not show once the glue is put in and has dried.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casey Carr View Post
    Thank you, Lee! I’ll get some gorilla glue tomorrow and see what I can do. I think it will be close to invisible if I do it right.
    Don't use the polyurethane glue it will make a mess of it.
    Lee Schierer
    Captain USN(Ret)

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  13. #13
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  14. #14
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    Another no to gorilla glue! That stuff expands. If it were me (and it has been) I'd use medium CA glue. You just have to be fast. Thin tires too fast. Starbond CA glue and maybe others have these really thin nozzle extensions that let you squirt glue deep into a crevice.
    Hobbyist

  15. #15
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    Polyurethane glue does "expand/foam", but it's not gap-filling. That "foam" has zero strength. PVA (Titebond or any other brand) is a good choice for this kind of repair unless there's a large gap and then I'd likely opt for epoxy.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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