Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 39

Thread: Jointer recommendations - any G0858 fans?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    3,737
    Get rid of the 735 with the helical head and get a planer with at least a 3hp planer. They were never designed to run with a insert head. Eventually you going to have problems.
    Sell it while it still works.
    Aj

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    1,592
    If you’re looking at $3 grand for an 8” jointer I’d suggest a Hammer combo machine.

    Yes, it’s almost double the price , but it is a lifetime tool for the hobbyist. Your 735 isn’t - especially with a helical head installed. It’s 12” and they just don’t have the QC issues Grizzly has.

    https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/s...a3-31-sp979003

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
    Posts
    2,280
    I have several pieces of Grizzly equipment. I was going to get a 8" Grizzly jointer (have no interest in a combo machine as I jump back and forth too often) but came across a like new Powermatic 882-HH for not much more. Grizzly tools are for the user who can turn a wrench if needed. Over all I've only bought one that was truly low quality (a Chinese made mortiser that I don't think they sell anymore). My lathe, band saw, oscillating spindle sander, and planer may have needed a little adjusting but produce excellent results.

    For a jointer I wouldn't bother with one with an insert head unless you just don't want to set blades. I would also lean towards a parallelogram vs dovetail. They have a lot more adjustment to fine tune. Not as much of an issue on a new tool but down the road it'll make a difference.

  4. Insert head for figured wood, virtually zero tear out. Have you priced AAAA figured wood, can't really afford to ruin that stuff. Also insert head for the quiet peaceful milling vs the knife WHAAAAAAAAAAA at 100 decibels. lol

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    313
    Quote Originally Posted by Alden Peterson View Post
    maybe I'll just do a planer sled/table saw sled until I can justify that price
    For the stuff that gets unwieldy on the table saw, I use a tracksaw. For panel glue-ups on long pieces, I may actually prefer it to a jointer as I can then just use the "trick" of jointing them simultaneously and getting a perfect fit.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
    Posts
    2,280
    Quote Originally Posted by Alden Peterson View Post
    Maybe I'll get a Powermatic 60HH instead. Their parallelogram jointers are crazy but looks like the 60HH with mobile base is "only" about $3800?

    I will say I like the aesthetics better on the Powermatic
    Not sure where you are located but there's a Powermatic PJ882 with a mobile base and the head has been upgraded to a Byrd insert head in RI on Facebook market place. Price is kind of high (since I paid paid just over half that for the same jointer 2 years ago) but maybe there's room to negotiate.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,879
    What size is that Grizzly 6,8 ,12 or more?

  8. #23
    Love my 8” Steelex which is I believe identical to the 0490. Most of these jointers are all the same across different brands. My next jointer will be either a 16” Cantek or a 20” SCM.

  9. Quote Originally Posted by Bobby Robbinett View Post
    Most of these jointers are all the same across different brands.
    They are not, dig deeper into the details. I made the same assumption but instead found quite a number of differences. One area that is common is the fence. From what I can see the fence is cast from the exact same mold, even the ribbing is the same. The casting the fence attaches to, how it attaches, how the adjustment mechanics work varies a fair bit.

    For the PM PJ882 one difference is where most all jointers use the handwheel (those that have one) to move the fence in/out via a rack and pinon the PJ882 uses that handwheel to adjust the angle of the fence which I found much more useful.

    The PJ882 has gibs on the sides of the table against a ground surface like the larger 12", none of the other 8" have that.

    The parallelogram components are massively large and rigid. The G0858 is kind of a joke in comparison. Bend over and look up under the tables. So wimpy you can move the tables out of parallel just by applying a bit too much pressure on the handle when raising the outfeed table up against the stop. The PJ882 is rock solid even the size of the stop bolt is ridiculously LARGE. LOL

    When comparing the table handwheel adjustable parallelogram Grizzly 8" jointers to the PJ882, a more fair comparison, there are pro's and cons. They have the PJ882 beat with the handwheels. But look closely at the bearing block exploded views and photos of the cutter head bearing blocks and that area of the castings, the PJ882 has the advantage there.

    On the PJ882HH I had to fix NOTHING, no factory defects. The only adjustment required was the table height stops. Everything else was adjusted at the factory to specs. I put the high dollar Mitutoyo indicators to work and attacked it with the 48" Starrett precision ground straight edge accurate to .0002 inch per foot. Man that thing was setup well, not one adjustment I'd even attempt to nudge it was that close to perfection.

    Helical Cutterheads - I was stunned to find so much variance in the cutterheads. Even Grizzly's 8" jointers have two different designs. Both Grizzly styles had 36 inserts but the design of the cutterhead itself was quite different and the shoulders the inserts index to. (another reason to keep clear of the G0858 by the way) The PJ882HH cutterhead has 54 inserts x 6 rows. The Grizzly are 36 inserts x 4 rows. I think the Byrd was 40 inserts x 5 rows.

    The PM PJ882 oval front looks pretty, but means other brand mobile bases really are not going to work well and fabricating one to match the oval front a pain. Let me tell you they are REALLY PROUD of the PM mobile base price wise. In the end I grit my teeth and purchased the PM mobile base. Expecting to cuss it and give it the stink eye as overpriced. But it actually works pretty well. That said I will be modifying the base with the Grizzly mono swivel foot operated caster. Points to Grizzly that thing is both massively beefy (it's used on their 20" planers) and just a great design. You can spin the machine 360 like a zero turn mower and when the foot operated caster is OFF it plants the machine down solid onto 2 leveling pads. Grizzly sells these mono swivels separately, I think it was only $60-$70 which for what you get is quite the bargain.
    Last edited by Charles Coolidge; 06-05-2022 at 7:57 AM.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Northern Oregon
    Posts
    1,820

    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by Alden Peterson View Post
    maybe I'll just do a planer sled/table saw sled until I can justify that price
    I use planer sleds and straight line rip jigs like this for long stock.

    I bought a new Powermatic 6" jointer in 1970 and used it in my cabinet shop for 3 or 4 years. I was buying S2S stock, and ran the edges thru the jointer.

    Then I found out it's more cost efficient and easier to buy lumber S3S. A good blade and a decent table saw set-up beats a jointer for me, especially on long stock edges. Oh and even a cheap rip blade won't ever chip out an edge like a knife can.

    In my hobby shop now, I never found the need to go back to owning and maintaining a jointer.

    Recently I got a deal on some beautiful rough planks. I ran it thru a lunch box planer on a sled and straight lined the edge on the table saw with a jig. Both methods work best if you have full support on in-feed and out-feed.

    Even if I had a source for lots of cheap rough lumber, I would still flatten it with a planer and a sled. Every time I run a piece thru I smile cause it's power feed flattening. Holding down long heavy stock to a jointer table is hard work. I mostly mill 8' or shorter stock.

    The only time I'd ever want a jointer is if I had a lot of short stock to joint and face.
    "Whether you think you can, or you think you can’t - you’re right."
    - Henry Ford

  11. #26
    Well I decided against getting a jointer now. Instead got a nice router table

  12. #27
    I was ripping a bunch today on the table saw to clean up an edge using my jointer jig (after using a thickness planer to get the faces flat) and man, oh man, do I want a jointer.

    That's the messiest thing I do nowadays as my jointing jig involves a sled I clamp the workpiece to, so I "joint" it in the air and it makes a giant mess since the piece is off the tablesaw surface in order for that to work.

    But.... so much money.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
    Posts
    2,280
    Most of the hardwood places around her sell both rough and dressed lumber.

  14. #29
    yeah, though I -- other than this part -- like milling lumber.

    Maybe I'll just buy once, cry once, and get the PJ-882HH for $4500 (and another $300 for the base?).... that'd probably last me the rest of my life and so per year it's cheap (hopefully ), right?

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
    Posts
    2,280
    Quote Originally Posted by Alden Peterson View Post
    yeah, though I -- other than this part -- like milling lumber.

    Maybe I'll just buy once, cry once, and get the PJ-882HH for $4500 (and another $300 for the base?).... that'd probably last me the rest of my life and so per year it's cheap (hopefully ), right?
    i got mine used before the price went crazy because I like milling lumber too. It's kind of like splitting wood. You have to pay attention to what you are doing so you get a chance to not think about much of anything else. But I often remind myself just how much the luxury of having a nice jointer and planer cost me vs just letting someone else do the simple work so I can focus on the building phase.

    In the end being able to fix a board that's no longer flat is worth it.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •