Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 17

Thread: Repairing a mid century bench (tongue and groove)

  1. #1

    Repairing a mid century bench (tongue and groove)

    I was given a 60" mid century bench since it was "broken". But it just appears that one of the tongue and groove joints came loose (it is regular tongue and groove, not a slip tongue)

    The tongue seems very thin but I'm not super familiar with this. Everything is in tact and in good shape.

    To re-connect the two sides of this bench would I just apply glue and reattach the tongue/grove? I am not a woodworker, so any tips would be really appreciated!
    I will note that the bench has two joints like this and the other one is in tact (appears to be glued).

    Thanks!



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,638
    Just clean the surfaces of any old glue, then re-glue and clamp. The T&G there is really for alignment...it allows the factory to assemble them quickly with less processing.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    Oakland, CA
    Posts
    253
    To be very clear: apply glue to the whole length and width of the joint, not just the tiny little tongue (which as noted was just there for easy alignment)

  4. #4
    Thank you! A few followup questions.

    I don't see any real residual glue on the surfaces. Would I need to sand the joining surfaces or could I get away with gluing as-is? I'm not really in an environment where I can sand these right now. Or is there another way to prep the surfaces before gluing if needed (would vinegar or something work?)

    Is there something that wood glue won't stick to? This is my first glue project. How do you prevent the glue from causing the piece you are working on to stick to the bench or surface below it when the bead comes out?

    Finally, since this is a finished piece, is it best to wipe up the glue that beads out with a wet cloth while it is still wet? I'm assuming using a scraper or chisel to remove the bead once it has dried is not an option on finished wood.

    Thanks again
    Last edited by Zack Hurley; 06-01-2022 at 1:04 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,638
    It's important that all existing glue is removed to insure that the new glue can stick if you plan on using PVA. (Titebond is one example of a PVA glue) If you can't really do that, scuff it will sandpaper and use epoxy. Use tape on the show surfaces to insure any squeeze out can be dealt with.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    It's important that all existing glue is removed to insure that the new glue can stick if you plan on using PVA. (Titebond is one example of a PVA glue) If you can't really do that, scuff it will sandpaper and use epoxy. Use tape on the show surfaces to insure any squeeze out can be dealt with.
    Thanks. What is the best way to remove the old glue? I plan on using gorilla wood glue

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,638
    Quote Originally Posted by Zack Hurley View Post
    Thanks. What is the best way to remove the old glue? I plan on using gorilla wood glue
    Without knowing what the old glue actually is, it's hard to suggest anything over than abrasion. If you are going to use the Gorilla (PVA) wood glue, it's essential that all the old glue is gone. If you are going to use the Gorilla polyurethane glue, you may be fine with just basic abrasion for "tooth". But personally, with all the unknowns, I'd use a decent epoxy product for this repair.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Without knowing what the old glue actually is, it's hard to suggest anything over than abrasion. If you are going to use the Gorilla (PVA) wood glue, it's essential that all the old glue is gone. If you are going to use the Gorilla polyurethane glue, you may be fine with just basic abrasion for "tooth". But personally, with all the unknowns, I'd use a decent epoxy product for this repair.
    That makes sense. Thanks. So acetone or vinegar wouldn’t remove old glue? I honestly can’t even see any old glue on it.

    I’d prefer to use something non toxic like gorilla glue over epoxy. I’d be eating on this table. Would maybe a paint scraper or something work?

    My other thought is to maybe glue or screw some braces on the bottom.

    I understand it’s hard to know without looking at it
    Last edited by Zack Hurley; 06-01-2022 at 8:23 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    Mid West and North East USA
    Posts
    2,796
    Blog Entries
    2
    Try a damp sponge and see if the edges get sticky after having been carefully dampened a few times. +1 for tape, along with carefully timed cleanup. Lately I am growing fond of Titebond III, for extended open time, good color, and ease of cleanup.
    Best Regards, Maurice

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Maurice Mcmurry View Post
    Try a damp sponge and see if the edges get sticky after having been carefully dampened a few times. +1 for tape, along with carefully timed cleanup. Lately I am growing fond of Titebond III, for extended open time, good color, and ease of cleanup.
    Thanks. If the edges get sticky what does that mean?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    Mid West and North East USA
    Posts
    2,796
    Blog Entries
    2
    If it was glued with Elmer's or Lepage's, water should soften the old glue. Sanding is also very good advice.
    Best Regards, Maurice

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Maurice Mcmurry View Post
    If it was glued with Elmer's or Lepage's, water should soften the old glue. Sanding is also very good advice.
    Oh ok thanks! So if it gets sticky, in theory could the glue be removed with water or vinegar/water etc?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,638
    There is no issue with toxicity with using epoxy with the repair once it's cured.

    It's true that acetone or vinegar might loosen existing glue, but it depends upon what kind of glue was originally used to build the piece. Some glues are very resistance to chemical and moisture "attack" vs others.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #14
    If you sand the joint, be careful not to round the edges. It will make the joint more visible. Be sure to clamp it up with a bar clamp every 8-12 inches. The glue needs to be squeezed down to a fairly thin layer with clamping pressure to achieve maximum strength.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    10,301
    You can't see any old glue on the surface. I can't see any glue on the surface in the pics. The joint came apart easily, without damaging the wood in any visible way. It might well be that the table was built without glue on that joint. Why? I don't know. Maybe a brain cramp in the factory?

    If it is true that the table had no glue in that joint, you can glue it without cleaning the glue off.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •