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Thread: 6" Dust Collector Hose Need Installation Tips

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    Make a small incision over the wire on the inside, grab hold of it and pull out several spirals, cut off.
    This leaves a "wireless" section of flex which will easily slide over a blast gate or port.
    Thanks, I'll try that tip the next time I run into problems!

    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    More importantly, how are you going to seal that garbage can?
    I'm planning to use thickened fiberglass resin on the inside seams & fiberglass mat/resin where the handles are attached.
    Fiberglass Sealing. jpg.jpg
    The wood ring used to connect the hose to the lid will also be sealed with fiberglass.
    The inside of the lid will have a foam-rubber weather strip along the inside edge, The inside wood ring I sealed with some left over OSI Quad caulk.
    IMG_8543.JPGIMG_8539.JPG

    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    FWIW I use a Brute can with a bicycle inner tube fixed to the rim. Works great.
    Does it collapse any if there's a blockage, or if the inlet was closed with a blast gate?

    I'm thinking of reinforcing the inside of my metal can with several metal rings?

    Doug

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Bender View Post
    That unit is going to make quite a roaring noise. Is it mounted on a house wall or an outside wall?
    I have a 5hp. idler motor for my RPC that's attached to a wall mounted bracket on the other side of the garage & it doesn't really create any noise from vibrations.
    IMG_7385.JPG

    There's a low rumbling sound coming from the wall but it's not loud.

    Having the idler motor mounted up about 6' on the wall helps free-up some space & I believe it also helps dissipate the sound of the idler motor running.
    IMG_6359.JPG

    I originally had a 3hp. RPC & the idler motor was mounted to a lower shelf of a wooden bench, that set-up made a lot more noise. Basically, everything on-top of the bench would rattle/vibrate making more noise.

    Doug

  3. #18
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    I got the blower motor & impeller connected to the dust collector & I was able to give it a test run just to see how loud it was.
    It's not really terrible, but I may try to add some type of damping foam to the inside of the filter cabinet.
    IMG_8551.JPGIMG_8549.JPG

    My RPC & 3-phase wiring is all on the other side of the garage.
    Here's some pictures of when I installed the 3-phase conduit & fuse/junction box.
    IMG_6403.JPGIMG_6401.JPG3 PH Boxes.jpg

    Instead of running some more conduit & adding a 3-phase outlet near the dust collector, I'm thinking of just picking up a VFD to run the dust collector on. A VFD will allow me to control the dust collector's speed/airflow & it would also let me set it up to slowly ramp up the speed.

    Doug

  4. #19
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    Bringing this old post back up for an update!

    I picked up a larger 3HP. 3PH. blower/motor assembly over the winter & now that the weather is getting better, I'll be taking the 2HP. blower assembly down & upgrading the dust collector to the 3HP blower.
    IMG_9036.JPGIMG_9038.JPG

    With the larger motor, I'm planning to run it on a VFD so that I can adjust the speed/airflow when needed.
    I'm just getting use to working with VFD's, so I'm a little unsure of how the sizing works for them!
    Here's a pic of the motor's nameplate.
    ID. Plate 3 .JPG
    The amp draw is 7.4 at 230V! Will this blower/motor run ok on a 3HP VFD that's rated at 10.5 amps, or should I get a 5hp VFD that's rated around 17 amps?

    Doug

  5. #20
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    You can get VFDs that either have 3-phase input or a single-phase input. If you get a 3-phase input, you have to up-size the VFD. So, if you are using a 3HP motor, I would recommend a 7.5HP 3-phase input VFD. A 5HP -might- work, but I think it would be on the edge.

    With a single-phase input VFD, you are fine getting a 3HP VFD. I use an 5HP ATO VFD, but here is the 3HP version:

    https://www.ato.com/3hp-vfd

    There are a number of cheaper Chinese VFDs on Amazon that are supposedly 3HP single-phase to 3-phase VFDs, but many are missing components/functions (i.e. brake resistor circuit doesn't exist, potentiometer knob doesn't work). Also, the ATO documentation is large and excellent (and in English).

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Inami View Post
    You can get VFDs that either have 3-phase input or a single-phase input.
    Yeah, I would be using single-phase input.

    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Inami View Post
    I use an 5HP ATO VFD, but here is the 3HP version:
    That's one I was thinking about! https://www.ato.com/5hp-vfd

    Fuji has a 3hp VFD that's rated at 12amps which is a little higher than the ATO 3HP. at 10amps.
    https://www.datasheets.com/en/part-d...ctric-54789847
    The data sheet for the Fuji 3HP VFD states it can draw 24-amps!
    I didn't see anything about circuit size needed for the 5HP ATO!
    What size circuit do you have your 5HP ATO VFD on?

    Doug

  7. #22
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    I have a 30 amp circuit for the 5HP VFD. You can certainly get the 5HP VFD if you want or the Fuji 3HP. You would be fine with a 20 amp circuit for the 3HP.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Walls View Post
    I'm planning on running 5" metal spiral pipe along the wall with a couple of 4" & 2-1/2" drops, there will be about a 30-degree bend in-between the cyclone inlet & the wall.

    I know this is an old thread but it is pointless to run from a larger diameter to a smaller diameter as the airflow will be dictated by the smaller diameter and the extra cost of the larger duct will be wasted.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Inami View Post
    I have a 30 amp circuit for the 5HP VFD. You can certainly get the 5HP VFD if you want.
    Thanks! I couldn't find any information on the ATO web site, but I figured that a 30-amp circuit would be good.

    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Inami View Post
    The Fuji 3HP. You would be fine with a 20 amp circuit for the 3HP.
    I was kind of thinking that also, I currently have a 20-amp circuit buy the dust collector I could use.

    My wiring is ran in metal conduit, so changing the wiring & breaker to 30-amps would not be too hard.

    Doug

  10. #25
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    Heh, that being said, the VFD will only suck as much power is required by the motor. If you are attaching a 3HP motor to a 5HP VFD, it will only use as much current as the 3HP motor requires (which is shown as 7.8A on your motor plate). You could be just fine with a 20A circuit.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    I know this is an old thread but it is pointless to run from a larger diameter to a smaller diameter as the airflow will be dictated by the smaller diameter and the extra cost of the larger duct will be wasted.
    I'm not sure I understand what you're getting at?
    Based on a number of layout drawings I've seen they suggest having the main trunk duct the size of the dust collector's inlet.
    The individual drops from the main trunk are reduced to the size of the fitting on the machines.
    The way I understand it, having the larger volume of air in the main trunk helps prevent CFM losses if you have more than one drop open at a time.

    This is one of the information sources I've saved.
    https://www.spiralmfg.com/wp-content...collection.pdf

    Doug

  12. #27
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    Maybe Chris Parks was really talking about velocity. Having a larger main trunk can be good, but be aware that air velocity is affected. For example, you could have drops that are 5-6" and run the dust collector speed high enough to pull your dust up. However, when the 5-6" drop is fed into a much larger 8" main trunk, the velocity of the air slows down. This velocity may not be enough to pull the dust all the way through the trunk. What ends up happening is dust will start to accumulate in your main trunk and possibly cause problems (air flow and possibly fire hazard). To alleviate this, you should open up two or three drops and run the dust collector at full speed to ensure you "flush" the main trunk to clear out any residing dust/debris.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Inami View Post
    I have a 30 amp circuit for the 5HP VFD. You can certainly get the 5HP VFD.
    What type of machine & motor hp. are you running off of the 5HP. ATO VFD?

    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Inami View Post
    You would be fine with a 20 amp circuit for the 3HP.
    I originally thought that also but looking into how these VFD operate, I'm having second thoughts about the amount of power they can actually draw.

    I came across another 3HP VFD from Automation Direct & their website has a lot of information about the drive on it. https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...fds/gs11n-23p0
    Looking through the user manual online, it states to use 8-AWG wire for the input side of the VFD. Using 8-AWG wire would suggest that a 40-amp circuit would be needed.

    Here's a picture of the label on the VFD, it shows that the maximum power draw of a VT motor is 27.5 amps.
    GS11N-23PO Lable .jpg
    Using the standard method of sizing a circuit at 125% of the maximum power draw would mean that a 35-amp breaker would be the minimum size needed.


    Doug

  14. #29
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    Hey Doug. Those are probably absolute maximum values. I don't see any reason why you would need 8-AWG wire on the inputs of either a 3HP VFD or a single phase 3-HP motor. I'm running 10awg romex to the inputs of my 5HP VFD (going to a 5HP Baldor motor). It does just fine. The VFD has a slow-start mechanism that creeps up the A/C cycles. This allows you to drastically reduce how much current is being pulled as the motor spins up gradually (over 5 seconds seems to be the optimum time). If you have all your blastgates closed, the motor will pull even less current on startup. On my 5HP, I think it was pulling about a max of 14-15 single-phase amps with the motor running full speed and all blastgates open.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Inami View Post
    Hey Doug. Those are probably absolute maximum values. I don't see any reason why you would need 8-AWG wire on the inputs of either a 3HP VFD or a single phase 3-HP motor.
    Yeah, that would be the maximum it could pull.
    Being I'm going to be upsizing the circuit to the dust collector anyways, I figured I would set it up to match the VFD.

    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Inami View Post
    The VFD has a slow-start mechanism that creeps up the A/C cycles. This allows you to drastically reduce how much current is being pulled as the motor spins up gradually (over 5 seconds seems to be the optimum time).
    I'm familiar with that feature on a VFD!
    I have a Powermatic 1200HD drill press with a 2HP Baldor motor & a Baldor VFD
    IMG_9109.JPG
    It's programed to slowly start-up & slowly slow down, it also does this when switching between FWD. & REV. which is good for tapping.
    The manual for the Baldor VFD calls for 10-AWG. wire & a 30-amp circuit.

    Doug
    Last edited by Doug Walls; 04-23-2023 at 8:44 PM.

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