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Thread: new bandsaw wont' cut straight

  1. #1

    new bandsaw wont' cut straight

    My first bandsaw, a new rikon 10-3061, set it up according to the manual and various youtube tutorials such as Alex Snodgrass's method (align the blade, tension the blade, thrust bearings and side guides)


    Now the issue is: the saw just won't cut straight, it will pull the wood off the fence and cut diagonally all the time, I have attached a photo. What could be the problem here? thanks!










    bandsaw.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    black river falls wisconsin
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    894
    get new blade.

  3. #3
    Too narrow a blade to be using a fence.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  4. #4
    Sorry I am a bandsaw noob, so I already need a new blade although the current one is brand new? 😂
    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    Too narrow a blade to be using a fence.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    8,178
    You might need a new blade if it's the one that came with the machine but more than likely the machine still isn't set up right. A narrow blade will cut straight if the machine is set up right.

    Did you put the blade on the center of the upper wheel? Yes. Good. Did you align the table miter slot parallel with the blade and the fence parallel with the miter slot? No. OK, do that first. Yes. Ok, it should cut straight, so I'd get a new blade and try again. Subtle adjustments to the top wheel will steer the cut of the blade left or right, so if the new blade doesn't cut straight at first adjust the top wheel a small amount and observe what happens. You should be able to get it to cut straight without having to move it far from center on the upper wheel.

    But if it still won't cut straight no matter how much you move the upper wheel then it's time to check if the wheels are coplaner. With all due respect to Mr. Snodgrass, it is important, and not all machines are set up properly when they leave the factory, so check to see if they are. You will have to take the table off but that's usually not too hard. But do the other stuff first and let us know how it turned out. Adjust the wheels isn't hard but there's no sense doing it unless warranted.

    John

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Forrest Gon View Post
    Sorry I am a bandsaw noob, so I already need a new blade although the current one is brand new? 
    The narrow blade that came with the machine is likely to wander in the cut, so don't expect to be able to do re-saw work with it. For that you will need a wide blade intended for re-sawing, and highly tensioned, which is probably more than your small machine can handle.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Upland CA
    Posts
    5,153
    Most inexpensive blades, as supplied with a new saw, have stamped rather than ground teeth. The tooth set can make it track off in one direction. Without the fence, put a straight line on some scrap and follow the line six inches or so.
    Stop without moving the work and it will be obvious what I am talking about. Your work piece will be sitting at an angle to the blade.

    Noob alert...it's pretty normal. All the above stuff is correct too.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  8. #8
    most likely you do not have the fence (and table) aligned with the blade. While Snodgrass is good, Michael Fortune is much better.

    https://www.finewoodworking.com/proj...t-up-a-bandsaw

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Wayland, MA
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    3,024
    When all else fails you can angle the fence to match the angle the blade wants to cut at and achieve a straight cut. (My new used saw came with a "driftmaster" aftermarket fence to do exactly that with great precision). First thing I'd try though after following the Fortune or Duginski setup instructions is, as others have suggested, a good quality new blade from the likes of Lennox. You're going to want a half dozen blades on hand in any event-- you'll need both wide and skinny ones plus backups for the ones you use the most for when you break one in the middle of a project. You'll go through many blades over the life of your saw.

    Having a way to assess tension is important, most new owners probably under-tension blades for fear of breaking something. Look at the "flutter test" for a low cost method that will get you into the ballpark.

  10. #10
    I disagree that a narrow blade is the issue. If properly setup, the narrow blade can work in a piece that thin.

    What are the specs on the blade? I found the stock blade on the 2 Grizzly bandsaws I owned to be bad. The TPI was way too high (I prefer to work aggressive in 3-4 TPI). These clear dust better than finer teeth blades. The inability of a blade to clear its gullets in the cut can cause deflection.

    The second issue is blade tension. There are a bunch of ways to properly set tension that I won't repeat here. But basically, you want the blade to be just tensioned enough to eliminate flutter.

    The third issue is guides improperly set.

    You should also take care to use proper feed rate. You will learn to let the saw show you how fast you should feed. You can just feel it. Go too fast and your cut will belly. There is little detriment to going too slow on a straight cut.

    Lonnie Bird and Mike Duginske have great books on using the bandsaw. I highly recommend. It's a tool that can do a lot. Understanding its mechanics is a worthwhile investment.
    Last edited by Prashun Patel; 05-24-2022 at 8:40 AM.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    27,938
    I purchased a new Mini-Max MM-16 over 10 years ago at a price of around $3,000. The blade that came on it was terrible! It is not unusual that the blades that come with new bandsaws are the least expensive available. It's commonplace!

    I highly recommend a book by Mark Duginske - The New Complete Guide to Bandsaws available on Amazon in paperback for $19.95. Excellent book - well written - well illustrated.
    Last edited by Ken Fitzgerald; 05-23-2022 at 5:32 PM.
    Ken

  12. #12
    BS-Track (500 x 539).jpg
    This is how I do it and it has never failed.

  13. #13
    I watched this video and have followed all the steps and the result is still the same.

    In order to rule out the possible alignment issue, I on purposely "rotated" the table as far as it could go so by theory the cut after this should be going diagonally to the other direction. But nothing has changed, the cut is still the same.


    Quote Originally Posted by Mike King View Post
    most likely you do not have the fence (and table) aligned with the blade. While Snodgrass is good, Michael Fortune is much better.

    https://www.finewoodworking.com/proj...t-up-a-bandsaw

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Windham, ME
    Posts
    92
    I have the same saw. It is an unsung hero. As a woodworker that used to have a shop full of high dollar Austrian tools, the Rikon 10-3061 is as much band saw as most hobbiest woodworkers need. I routinely use it to resaw to it's full capacity which is 5 inches. That being said, the blade that ships with the saw is hot garbage. Do yourself a favor and go to Highland Hardware and get yourself a Wood Slicer. They aren't cheap but neither is your free time. If a brand new Wood Slicer doesn't solve your problems you can work your way through the other variables one by one. I seriously doubt your wheels are not coplaner. Also, from the picture, it appears that you are trying to cut some sort of end grain cut off. This could lead to a less than superior cut, especially since it appears that the face of your stock you have riding against the fence is not flat.

    Darren

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    I’m assuming you raised the upper guide for the picture. If not, lower the guide to within ” of the workpiece before making the cut. Like Ken, the blades that came with my MM16 were junk.
    Please help support the Creek.


    Where we have strong emotions, we're liable to fool ourselves.
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