[OP]
Member
My first bandsaw, a new rikon 10-3061, set it up according to the manual and various youtube tutorials such as Alex Snodgrass's method (align the blade, tension the blade, thrust bearings and side guides)
Now the issue is: the saw just won't cut straight, it will pull the wood off the fence and cut diagonally all the time, I have attached a photo. What could be the problem here? thanks!
bandsaw.jpg
Contributor
get new blade.
Contributor
Too narrow a blade to be using a fence.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
[OP]
Member
Sorry I am a bandsaw noob, so I already need a new blade although the current one is brand new? 😂
Originally Posted by andy bessette
Contributor
You might need a new blade if it's the one that came with the machine but more than likely the machine still isn't set up right. A narrow blade will cut straight if the machine is set up right.
Did you put the blade on the center of the upper wheel? Yes. Good. Did you align the table miter slot parallel with the blade and the fence parallel with the miter slot? No. OK, do that first. Yes. Ok, it should cut straight, so I'd get a new blade and try again. Subtle adjustments to the top wheel will steer the cut of the blade left or right, so if the new blade doesn't cut straight at first adjust the top wheel a small amount and observe what happens. You should be able to get it to cut straight without having to move it far from center on the upper wheel.
But if it still won't cut straight no matter how much you move the upper wheel then it's time to check if the wheels are coplaner. With all due respect to Mr. Snodgrass, it is important, and not all machines are set up properly when they leave the factory, so check to see if they are. You will have to take the table off but that's usually not too hard. But do the other stuff first and let us know how it turned out. Adjust the wheels isn't hard but there's no sense doing it unless warranted.
John
Contributor
The narrow blade that came with the machine is likely to wander in the cut, so don't expect to be able to do re-saw work with it. For that you will need a wide blade intended for re-sawing, and highly tensioned, which is probably more than your small machine can handle.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Contributor
Most inexpensive blades, as supplied with a new saw, have stamped rather than ground teeth. The tooth set can make it track off in one direction. Without the fence, put a straight line on some scrap and follow the line six inches or so.
Stop without moving the work and it will be obvious what I am talking about. Your work piece will be sitting at an angle to the blade.
Noob alert...it's pretty normal. All the above stuff is correct too.
Rick Potter
DIY journeyman,
FWW wannabe.
AKA Village Idiot.
most likely you do not have the fence (and table) aligned with the blade. While Snodgrass is good, Michael Fortune is much better.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/proj...t-up-a-bandsaw
Contributor
When all else fails you can angle the fence to match the angle the blade wants to cut at and achieve a straight cut. (My new used saw came with a "driftmaster" aftermarket fence to do exactly that with great precision). First thing I'd try though after following the Fortune or Duginski setup instructions is, as others have suggested, a good quality new blade from the likes of Lennox. You're going to want a half dozen blades on hand in any event-- you'll need both wide and skinny ones plus backups for the ones you use the most for when you break one in the middle of a project. You'll go through many blades over the life of your saw.
Having a way to assess tension is important, most new owners probably under-tension blades for fear of breaking something. Look at the "flutter test" for a low cost method that will get you into the ballpark.
[OP]
Member
I watched this video and have followed all the steps and the result is still the same.
In order to rule out the possible alignment issue, I on purposely "rotated" the table as far as it could go so by theory the cut after this should be going diagonally to the other direction. But nothing has changed, the cut is still the same.
Member
I have the same saw. It is an unsung hero. As a woodworker that used to have a shop full of high dollar Austrian tools, the Rikon 10-3061 is as much band saw as most hobbiest woodworkers need. I routinely use it to resaw to it's full capacity which is 5 inches. That being said, the blade that ships with the saw is hot garbage. Do yourself a favor and go to Highland Hardware and get yourself a Wood Slicer. They aren't cheap but neither is your free time. If a brand new Wood Slicer doesn't solve your problems you can work your way through the other variables one by one. I seriously doubt your wheels are not coplaner. Also, from the picture, it appears that you are trying to cut some sort of end grain cut off. This could lead to a less than superior cut, especially since it appears that the face of your stock you have riding against the fence is not flat.
Darren
Moderator
I’m assuming you raised the upper guide for the picture. If not, lower the guide to within ¼” of the workpiece before making the cut. Like Ken, the blades that came with my MM16 were junk.
Please help support the Creek.
"It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
Andy Rooney
I agree with the others, factory supplied blades aren't very good. I used to have a problem with my Delta 14" band saw not cutting straight. After carefully adjusting the saw per this video with a new timber wolf blade my saw cuts straight each and every time, using the fence as a guide. Make sure you pay attention to centering the blade on the upper wheel as that make the most difference. I can also now use my miter slog and get square end cuts.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute
Contributor
This is not possible when cutting narrow strips because the guide will hit the top of the fence.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Contributor
Make a low fence addition to use in conjunction with the factory fence. Then it is possible.
Ken
So much to learn, so little time.....
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
