Stanley router 71 1/2

[Luis Reyes]

Hi Everyone,

I picked up a Stanley 71 1/2 router plane and I'm looking to restore and use it but had a few questions that I'm hoping the group can help with!

1. Has anyone built a fence to go along with this? I tried google and I don't believe this came with a fence originally
2. This should be 1.b really but what are the screw holes for? I'm assuming to add a base of some sort?
3. I haven't used vinegar yet to dissolve rust but I'm thinking I may need to do that with this plane. Any tips on doing this besides ensuring I don't leave it too long?

That's all for now actually. I can't wait to bring this back to life and get to use it!

router 71.jpg

[Jim Koepke]

Hi Luis, you are correct, this plane didn't come with a fence.

Patrick Leach has a good write up on the #71 & #71-1/2 here > http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan10.htm

Also the screw holes are for adding a base. A base can be made to hold a fence. It can also be made to create a larger or more precise foot print for the router. This can be useful if the router is used for trimming tenons. A base can also be useful if you want to use cutters from Lee Valley (Veritas). Their cutters are longer than Stanley cutters. They can usually be used by turning the top hat nut upside down. With a 1/4" (6.35mm) thick base the LV cutters work fine in my Sargent router, that is a knock off of the Stanley #71, without flipping the adjuster nut.

This might be a handy idea for your depth adjuster:

Lines on Router Adjuster.jpg

Knowing the threads per inch, the Sargent has 18tpi (~0.056" per thread) divided by 8 means the cutter depth increases by ~0.007" for each mark. The Stanley will have a different thread pitch. If someone here doesn't know and post it you may have to determine that for yourself.

You may want to try a brass or other wire brush before soaking in anything. Many of the rust removers can tarnish the metal. What ever you do, wear eye protection.

If you have a wine making supply store in your area you may want to try citric acid for removal. You can get it in a dry crystal form and mix small amounts as needed. Years ago one person here mentioned using a dry citrus drink mix with citric acid listed on the label.

Normal vinegar for food use is rather weak. Check the cleaning supply aisle in your local grocery store. There may be a vinegar sold for cleaning. It is much stronger than what is used for making salad dressing.

Just remember the stronger the acid the quicker it will break down the rust.

jtk

[Jason Buresh]

I would try vinegar as a last resort. I agree with Jim on trying a brush first.

I really like the little brass brushes made for cleaning firearms. The can get in tight spots and aren't overly aggressive.

83b51a64-be8d-4199-b4c3-c39f776e260d_1.dbaf5149272a871115f2c0d3a7500df9.jpg

I also have had success using a penetrating oil like wd40 or pb blaster while using a hand brush

[steven c newman]

Bad part about Vinegar...it never knows when to stop.

The main idea behind the 2 screw holes was indeed for the Workman to attach a wood fence under the plane.
Later models had threaded holes, for a bolt to pass up through the Factory made fence.

One can strip the plane down into parts....run a Brass wire wheel around...to clean off the rust...Then assemble things together...
A day of cramps & planes, clean up.JPG
And put it to work.

BTW: NOW you have a Project....a box to store this plane in...


others prefer Evaporust soaks....I don't.