Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 35

Thread: How to replace Syder/Coupler on Supermax 16/32>?

  1. #1

    How to replace Syder/Coupler on Supermax 16/32>?

    I have a Supermax 16/32 with a pretty clapped out rubber spyder-coupler. Little tiny pieces of rubber are coming out of it, which makes sense, I've used this like I stole it for the last 2 years. Any videos or instructions with pictures anywhere on how to do this that are deliberately hidden and not indexed by search tool? Is this proprietary info that the manufacturer has DCMA'ed? I've looked for hours, and nothing. Looking specifically for instructions with graphic aids, "remove this bolt and undo that screw" are of no help to me, my reading comprehension is zero but if I have a picture of it, I can rebuild a space shuttle with only 2-3 bolts left over and a catalytic converter delete....

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ND1TK0J9mDc unfortunately does not show a single shot of actually getting into, removing, or replacing the part in question.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    7,408
    Looks like a standard Lovejoy coupling. I think there are two common ways to replace the spider. Remove the entire motor or gear box or, unbolt one or both hubs from the shaft and pry them apart far enough to remove/install new spider.
    Link below is Lovejoy site install instructions. Note that the spider can be had in different elastomers and even metal.
    I have no ideas about pricing. It may be cheaper to buy a complete coupling on the bay for the spider then to buy a spider from a proper store.
    I have no idea what size your machine uses or how to determine the model number so you can order parts. As long as the tooth count is the same and a similar shaft size it will probably be workable with some trimming.
    Bill D.
    https://www.lovejoy-inc.com/resource...ctions-videos/
    Last edited by Bill Dufour; 05-15-2022 at 11:17 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    21,762
    Blog Entries
    1
    Some 19-38 models can be used with drum or brush. The 16-32 is a different beast but there are videos on changing the drum for a brush that may help.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5C1SHxvUBf8
    Take me to the hotel - Baggage gone, oh well . . .

  4. #4
    As Bill said, looks like a standard "Lovejoy" coupling.

    6408k142-k75p2-d03c1594834169-p9@halfx_637304129988006148.png

    Somehow, you need to separate the "hubs" far enough to get the old spider out and the new one in. If there is enough room on either shaft, it may be possible to loosen whatever is holding the hub in place and slide a hub back. Otherwise, you may need to find a way to move either the motor or the sanding drum.

  5. #5
    All your answers sent me back the shop....

    As best I can tell, on this model, I need to separate the sander head from the mount seems to be the "easiest" way to get the coupling off. Does that compute? The design of the 16/32 seems radically different than the 19/38, in that replacing a drum seems significantly harder and looks to require a puller/bearing press. As long as I keep it aligned during reassembly.
    On that note, it seems that the reason why the spyder is failing.....is the 3/8" gap between the two coupling pieces! From the factory! And this was the 2nd warranty replacement! I was able to move reduce the gap "a little" by loosening the set screws and moving them closer for a night and day difference in performance, but the rubber thingy is still clapped out and needs replaced. Of course the coupling half and the spyder are "Out of stock".....
    Last edited by Thomas Colson; 05-15-2022 at 2:42 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Tampa Bay area
    Posts
    674
    Just went out and looked at mine and there are four bolts that hold the drum housing to the main frame and four bolts holding the motor to the main frame. The four bolts holding the drum housing look the easiest to get a wrench on. I would take that route. You may have to realign the drum to the table after reassembly.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    7,408
    Sounds like maybe the motor comes off easy enough and you do not have to realign the drum. While it is off you may want to install a male/female cord end between the motor and the switch gear.
    Bill D

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Peshtigo,WI
    Posts
    1,132
    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Colson View Post
    All your answers sent me back the shop....

    As best I can tell, on this model, I need to separate the sander head from the mount seems to be the "easiest" way to get the coupling off. Does that compute? The design of the 16/32 seems radically different than the 19/38, in that replacing a drum seems significantly harder and looks to require a puller/bearing press. As long as I keep it aligned during reassembly.
    On that note, it seems that the reason why the spyder is failing.....is the 3/8" gap between the two coupling pieces! From the factory! And this was the 2nd warranty replacement! I was able to move reduce the gap "a little" by loosening the set screws and moving them closer for a night and day difference in performance, but the rubber thingy is still clapped out and needs replaced. Of course the coupling half and the spyder are "Out of stock".....
    Out of stock where? Grainger and McMaster-Carr both sell that type of coupling, along with any industrial supply house. If you have a local Motion Industries or Kaman bring it to them and you can buy just the spider.
    Confidence: The feeling you experience before you fully understand the situation

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    766
    Traditionally, the color of spider designates it torque rating, so make sure to get the correct "color." Alignment of the coupling hubs is important. Can't remember the tolerance of misalignment allowed, but the Lovejoy site should say. Brian
    Brian

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Bruette View Post
    Out of stock where? Grainger and McMaster-Carr both sell that type of coupling, along with any industrial supply house. If you have a local Motion Industries or Kaman bring it to them and you can buy just the spider.
    +1. If you can measure the coupling, should be pretty easy to find the replacement spider: https://www.mcmaster.com/lovejoy-spiders/

  11. #11
    I'm a woodworker (hobbyist), not a machinist, so no way to accurately measure shaft diameters and coupling sizes or whatever else you would need to know to get the right part. All I know is the two parts are out of stock on Laguna. How does one get the accurate non-laguna parts without having accurate machine tools? Looking at MMCarr, there are far too many options for me to 'guess' this. Is there another side that cross-references Laguna part numbers into something that's "in stock"? Spyder is black rubber, no idea what torque value, Laguna of course does not list specs on their site. In addition, every single other brand coupler I see has one set screw, the laguna has two (on each coupler half). Feel like it's important to get a replacement coupler with 2 set screws as well.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Orwell, NY
    Posts
    1,109
    You can get a 6" digital caliper for under $20 that will tell you shaft sizes and do any other measuring you'll need for this job. I use mine for woodworking too, along with an analog one. They're handy to have around.

  13. #13
    You don't need to replace the coupler, do you? Just the spider? All you need to do is measure the coupler so that you can see what spider fits it.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    766
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Friedrichs View Post
    You don't need to replace the coupler, do you? Just the spider? All you need to do is measure the coupler so that you can see what spider fits it.
    Spider is designed to wear and fail and is replaceable. Brian
    Brian

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Friedrichs View Post
    You don't need to replace the coupler, do you? Just the spider? All you need to do is measure the coupler so that you can see what spider fits it.
    Well.....the coupler "looks" to be a little "banged up". Given the gap between the coupler halves, from the factory, there's not much spyder left and the couplers are a little banged up.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •