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Thread: SawStop PCS 1.75HP Questions

  1. #1
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    SawStop PCS 1.75HP Questions

    I finally bit the bullet & ordered a SawStop PCS 1.75HP with the 36" T-Glide-Fence the other day from my local Woodcraft store just before the May 3rd. price increase.

    I really wanted to get the 3HP. model, but I only have one 30-amp 240V circuit available & my dust collector is currently run on that.

    Eventually I plan to upgrade the electrical system in the garage! However, that's going to be a little bit down-the-road since I should also upgrade my main electrical service entrance line to my house.

    My first question is for anyone that owns a PCS 1.75HP!
    How well do you like it, and have you had any problems cutting thicker hardwood stock?

    My second question is for anyone that may have upgraded the PCS 175 to 240V!
    Did upgrading it to 240V make any difference in performance?
    I realize it won't add any more power, but I'm thinking it may start-up quicker & possibly not bog-down as often under a heavy load.

    Thanks
    Doug

  2. #2
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    I did the upgrade from the PCS 1.75HP (110v) to the 3HP 220V upgrade. Cost around $600 a couple of years ago. Took about an hour to switch motors and put in the new control box.

    Saw doesn't struggle anymore cutting thicker stuff.

    The 220V version pulls about 5 amps when running and doesn't seem to pull a big spike on start up.

    I run my Hammer A3-31 JP and the Sawstop, off the same 20A circuit, at the same time. I rip on the Sawstop, joint, the sawn edge on the JP and repeat as necessary.

    The JP pulls about 53A on startup, momentarily, and then draws about 7-8A in normal running. So between the two running, I'm well below the 20A circuit rating.

    The electrician who installed the 220v circuit took the readings on the two machines at startup and while running.
    Last edited by ChrisA Edwards; 05-05-2022 at 1:29 PM.

  3. #3
    Check this video out:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6JIbYFj3cY

    While I don't have one, running deliberate blade choices will likely help a bit. Thin kerf, rip vs cross cut, sharpness, etc. will all play into performance.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisA Edwards View Post
    I did the upgrade from the PCS 1.75HP (110v) to the 3HP 220V upgrade. Cost around $600 a couple of years ago. Took about an hour to switch motors and put in the new control box.
    Did you keep the original gas/lift assist cylinder in the saw?
    I talked to a tech at SS & he also recommended to upgrade to the heaver duty lift/assist cylinder!

    I was figuring on possibly doing the 3HP/motor conversion after getting my electrical upgraded in about a year or so!

    For now I was just thinking about upgrading the 1.75HP. motor to 240V.

    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisA Edwards View Post
    I run my Hammer A3-31 JP and the Sawstop, off the same 20A circuit, at the same time.
    Wow I wouldn't thought that was possible!

    Based on that, I may be able to get away with the 30Amp circuit for both?
    I have a friend that's a retired electrician, I'll check with him & see if I could possibly run the 3HP model & dust collector on my current line.

    My saw is currently on "backorder" with Woodcraft with an expected shipping date of June 3rd.
    Being it hasn't shipped yet, I may be able to upgrade the order?

    Doug

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Walls View Post

    For now I was just thinking about upgrading the 1.75HP. motor to 240V.
    That conversion really doesn't change the motor power, etc., so unless it's "more convenient" to run it on 240v, I'd keep it on 120v 20a and consider the motor upgrade in the future.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    That conversion really doesn't change the motor power, etc.
    Yeah as I mentioned I knew that!

    I had an older Craftsman RAS that I converted over to 240V & It seemed to run a little smoother on the 240V.
    The RAS also seemed to get up to full speed quite a bit faster with a heavy dado stack on it while running on 240V.

    Doug

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Crivello View Post
    Check this video out:
    Thanks, I don't remember seeing that one!
    I've seen quite a few of the 3HP videos, But not too many on the 1.75HP model.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Crivello View Post
    running deliberate blade choices will likely help a bit. Thin kerf, rip vs cross cut, sharpness, etc. will all play into performance.
    Yeah I agree with you on matching the blade to the job, And also keeping the blades sharp.

    Doug

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    Most who have a 1.75 HP will tell you it's plenty. I've had a 1.75 HP (Jet) and a 3 HP. You can get by with the smaller motor, but the bigger one is that much better. If you are considering upgrading, just do it now. Otherwise you're just throwing money away.

  9. #9
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    The 3HP upgrade kit included the gas strut, motor and control box.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Walls View Post
    I had an older Craftsman RAS that I converted over to 240V & It seemed to run a little smoother on the 240V.
    There were a few older machines with motors that may have had additional windings when converted to 240v instead of 120v and supposedly developed a little more horsepower.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    Most who have a 1.75 HP will tell you it's plenty. I've had a 1.75 HP (Jet) and a 3 HP. You can get by with the smaller motor, but the bigger one is that much better. If you are considering upgrading, just do it now. Otherwise you're just throwing money away.
    technically the opposite. For roughly the same cost as the difference you are getting a free 1.75hp motor at the cost of a little install time. The upgrade cost was the same as the initial price difference last I looked.

  12. #12
    I have the PCS with the 36 inch fence and 1.75 hp motor. I think I bought it in 2019, might have been 2018. I cut three inch thick hardwood on it any time I need to do that. But I do not try it with a combination blade. I used full kerf blades on it at first, I bought a ripping/combination set from Infinity when I bought the saw. I had trouble with the rip blade making a bunk bed for my grandkids. The legs are glued up 2x4s and the thermal overload kept tripping even though I was using the new infinity ripping blade. I worked my way through multiple things causing this. First I put on a full kerf Freud 24 tooth ripping blade that had been used significantly but it was clean. I had to go a little slow but it made the cuts. Then I found a thin kerf ripping blade, also Freud, and it made the cuts at a normal feed rate. Later I figured out the kerf was closing on the blade on these legs and that was part of the reason the saw was struggling.

    So be careful on rip cuts that close up on the blade and you will probably be OK with a reasonable blade. But I normally use thin kerf blades now. With them I have had no issues. I actually never had an issue with hardwood 3+ inches thick. I think it was the fact that it was straighter. I got a 2mm thick riving knife from SawStop, I think it was only about $20, and use that with the thin kerf blades. I make most cuts with a 50 tooth or 40 tooth Freud thin kerf combination blade but I put on a thin kerf ripping blade for 2+ inch thick cuts (usually).

    I have been making sawdust for over 50 years and have never had a table saw that couldn't run on 120V. It does make me be more careful about blades but they have all done the work. You can probably work with dirty blades better and with full kerf blades more easily with 3hp or more but you don't have to use dirty full kerf blades.

    Get yourself come good thin kerf blades and the 2mm splitter and have fun. Use it awhile and I bet you forget about the 3hp upgrade. But, if not, go for it. I'm pretty sure you will enjoy this saw. Controls work smoothly, the saw cuts accurately and power is adequate. The safety system is a little bit of a pain sometimes but it's good to have.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Parrish View Post
    technically the opposite. For roughly the same cost as the difference you are getting a free 1.75hp motor at the cost of a little install time. The upgrade cost was the same as the initial price difference last I looked.
    Right you are! That surprised me. It also surprised me how much more expensive they are now than when I bought.

  14. #14
    I purchased the same model around 2016, and used it for two years. Around 2018 I purchased a band saw that required 220V so I finally brought in an electrician to install some 220V outlets in the garage. Since then I added a third myself, for my dust collector. I run my A3-41 jointer-planer and my bandsaw off the same outlet - although not simultaneously. Anyways, after the 220V outlets went in I purchased the 3hp upgrade kit from SawStop. That motor is heavy! I built a little box, to prop the motor up at the right level to help with the installation. Made things much easier. While the 1.75hp is adequate, especially with a thin kerf blade, it did struggle and even stall a couple times on really thick hardwood...12/4 hickory for example. But for most things it was just fine. The 3hp motor is really a significant upgrade, and you can definitely feel it when using the saw. I find there is less burning and it never struggles. In fact, if I had to do it over again, I'd buy the 5hp Industrial saw.

    Scott B

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Dwight View Post
    I have the PCS with the 36 inch fence and 1.75 hp motor. I think I bought it in 2019, might have been 2018. I cut three inch thick hardwood on it any time I need to do that. But I do not try it with a combination blade. I used full kerf blades on it at first,
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Dwight View Post
    I make most cuts with a 50 tooth or 40 tooth Freud thin kerf combination blade but I put on a thin kerf ripping blade for 2+ inch thick cuts (usually).
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Bernstein View Post
    I purchased the same model around 2016, and used it for two years.
    While the 1.75hp is adequate, especially with a thin kerf blade, it did struggle and even stall a couple times on really thick hardwood...12/4 hickory for example. But for most things it was just fine.
    Thanks for the information!

    With the majority of my projects I normally use plywood or 4/4 stock, so I know I wouldn't have any problems there.

    I'm sure with the new saw I'll come up with new bigger projects that may require thicker stock, but I doubt I would need to rip anything thicker than 8/4 stock.

    Doug

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