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Thread: Diamond stone sale

  1. #1
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    Diamond stone sale

    I hope this doesn't violate any rules.

    I just got an email from Woodcraft offering the WoodRiver


    Diamond Stone - 10" - 400 / 1200 Grit at 50% off and I jumped on it. I've been curious about this method and this was enough to get me into diamonds. I like the idea that it's 10 freaking inches long. Yowee!


  2. #2
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    Speaking from experience diamond products vary widely. I am still using a 600 grit DMT 10" 'stone' that I got in 2002. All the Trend and EZ-Lap products I have had have all worn out and been tossed with the exception of some small EZ-Lap paddles that seem to work just fine(???). The point is that you don't want to judge all diamond products by Woodcraft's store brand product. I hope they do well for you but, if not, they are not alone and there are good products out there.
    Take me to the hotel - Baggage gone, oh well . . .

  3. #3
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    I currently use the little Harborfreight diamond stones for coarse sharpening and they have held up well for many years. They're just too small for most things woodworking. I can only hope that these are at least as good or better and the size is awesome for plane blades.

  4. #4
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    I think the only thing left for me to try are water stones. It's not that I'm not getting things sharp with what I have, I just want to see if I'm missing anything. That said, before the year is out, I plan on getting some water stones. Nothing too expensive mind you.

    I should say things that I care to try. I don't want to go power sharpening at this time.

  5. #5
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    Iíve got a DMT extra coarse and DMT lapping plate, as well as 1000, 4000, 8000 Norton water stones. I used the extra coarse for flattening chisel backs, but found that 3M wet/dry sandpaper (220, 320, 400, 1000,1500, 2000, 3000) works much faster and leaves a dead flat mirror finish. I use water stones for sharpening the edge and for plane blades and the lapping plate for truing the water stones.

  6. #6
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    Mar 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Hutchings View Post
    I think the only thing left for me to try are water stones. It's not that I'm not getting things sharp with what I have, I just want to see if I'm missing anything. That said, before the year is out, I plan on getting some water stones. Nothing too expensive mind you.

    I should say things that I care to try. I don't want to go power sharpening at this time.

    Beware of the ones you have to soak before use, unless you want to leave them soaking in a tub of water.

    I found that pretty inconvenient and messy, so I don't use them.

    Some waterstones are "splash and go" though. I'd try those first.

  7. #7
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    I have splash and go ceramics that work great. No, I want the full experience of the water tubs and flattening. I enjoy this kind of thing probably more than building some project that seems to take forever.

  8. #8
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    After receiving the stone, rather the diamond plate, I sharpened a utility knife that was in bad shape. I expected the 400 grit side to work much faster than it did. It took quite a while to get a burr and I finally raised the angle to get it. Going to the 1200 side, I found to be about the same as my Shapton 1000 ceramic. My opinion, this was a waste of money for me as my current stones would have done the job just as fast.

    I still want use it and maybe I'll find a benefit on my tools that just need a little sharpening.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    Speaking from experience diamond products vary widely. I am still using a 600 grit DMT 10" 'stone' that I got in 2002. All the Trend and EZ-Lap products I have had have all worn out and been tossed with the exception of some small EZ-Lap paddles that seem to work just fine(???). The point is that you don't want to judge all diamond products by Woodcraft's store brand product. I hope they do well for you but, if not, they are not alone and there are good products out there.
    My experience is the same. I have a couple of DMT diamond plates that I got about 2007 and they're still good. I didn't have any way to judge them, so last year, I bought another coarse/extra coarse, but it works about the same as my 2007 plate. I've used that 2007 plate for flattening Shapton stones, for flattening chisels, and for redoing a damaged edge.

    However, once I bought a WorkSharp, I use that for establishing the primary bevel and use an 8000 Shapton stone for making the "fine" secondary bevel. That approach is really quick.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

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