jointing with old iron

[Nick Crivello]

I would love to see a picture of your old jointer!

I love old iron too. I also post on OWWM but it isn't nearly as friendly of a forum as it is here.

Machine in question:

porter 4.jpg
porter 5.jpg

[Kevin Jenness]

There is definitively play vertically. Based on the condition of the bearings I'm going to stop using it until I can learn more about scraping and fixing those oil grooves that were burned up. Anybody know of a convenient source for the right kind of shim stock needed to get the play out? I have limited metal fabrication ability, but is there an actual product that fills this application?

McMaster Carr. You can buy an assortment of brass shim stock that will last you out.

"Repouring babbitt bearings -a low tech way to rescue old machines "
by Bob Johnson appeared in Fine Woodworking Magazine issue # 38 Jan/Feb 1983.

[Richard Coers]

There is definitively play vertically. Based on the condition of the bearings I'm going to stop using it until I can learn more about scraping and fixing those oil grooves that were burned up. Anybody know of a convenient source for the right kind of shim stock needed to get the play out? I have limited metal fabrication ability, but is there an actual product that fills this application?

I've seen everything from playing cards to brass. There is a stack of shims put in during a new pour, then you remove shims to snug it up from wear. It is much more common for the bottom half babbitts to wear than the cap. I wouldn't be surprised to see oil grooves in the top half and smooth in the bottom. You don't torque the cap bolts really tight after adding or removing shims. Those scallops you mentioned early on are caused by the cutter head moving up and down during the cut.

[Nick Crivello]

Those scallops you mentioned early on is cause by the cutter head moving up and down during the cut.

I'm not sure if the term scallops is correct; What I'm seeing is lines/faint ridges going across the face at 90 degree angle that can vary in spacing and then even clear up briefly before reappearing. I was guessing feed speed but the cutter head moving up and down might fit as well.

I also found during closer inspection that one of the knives is just a hair higher on one side. Another item to sort out.

[Nick Crivello]

I've seen everything from playing cards to brass. There is a stack of shims put in during a new pour, then you remove shims to snug it up from wear. It is much more common for the bottom half babbitts to wear than the cap. I wouldn't be surprised to see oil grooves in the top half and smooth in the bottom. You don't torque the cap bolts really tight after adding or removing shims. Those scallops you mentioned early on are caused by the cutter head moving up and down during the cut.

I posted pictures of the bearings a few posts back. One side has the oil grooves worn out on the bottom and burned bearing surfaces throughout (side closest to the pulley that the belts ride on.). Other one looks pretty decent I think.

[Mel Fulks]

That’s a good looking machine ! Been years since I’ve used one of those. They have a nice feature in that each full revolution of the Big
Wheel moves infeed table 1/8th inch ,put a paint ring on the wheel ,and forget testing before cutting.

[Andrew Hughes]

That is a good looker for her age. What does the head look like

[Nick Crivello]

That’s a good looking machine ! Been years since I’ve used one of those. They have a nice feature in that each full revolution of the Big
Wheel moves infeed table 1/8th inch ,put a paint ring on the wheel ,and forget testing before cutting.

That ship's wheel is one of the coolest things about it... really smooth action as well. The art deco knobs and brass hardware help too.

[Mel Fulks]

Holbren has V2 HSS knives advertised
American National Knife has M2 HSS; Carbide tipped offerings seem to be about 4x the cost.

I don’t like carbide knives for use on wood. They are not as sharp as steel, but are good for woods with a lot of silica ,and for plastic and
even aluminum.

[Nick Crivello]

I don’t like carbide knives for use on wood. They are not as sharp as steel, but are good for woods with a lot of silica ,and for plastic and
even aluminum.

will probably try the Holbren V2 product. Knives I have measure out at 16” x1.1”x .125”. Wondering if I should order 1” or 1.25” long knives…

[Kevin Jenness]

Buy knives at least as deep as the pockets. They typically project beyond the cylinder surface 1/16" - 1/8".

That machine appears to be in decent shape and has character. Have to love the ship's wheel. Get the bearings sorted and it should last you out. A segmented head would increase performance if you were prepared to drop a couple grand into it.

I can't figure the problem you are having with the fence angle. If the machine tables and fence base and face are flat and the locking mechanism secure it should work.

A belt guard would not be amiss.

[Nick Crivello]

Buy knives at least as deep as the pockets. They typically project beyond the cylinder surface 1/16" - 1/8".

The original manufacturer specs suggest 1.5" x.125"; The pockets certainly appear to accommodate that.

That machine appears to be in decent shape and has character. Have to love the ship's wheel. Get the bearings sorted and it should last you out. A segmented head would increase performance if you were prepared to drop a couple grand into it.

I originally planned to tear everything down for a fresh coat of paint and restoration, but decided that the 'patina' looked pretty neat. By segmented head, you mean a helical head? Is there any reason I couldn't run one with freshly poured Babbitt bearings? Wouldn't want to engineer new mounts for newer roller bearings. A helical head upgrade is reasonable as it would still be a good deal less than a comparable new 16" machine in the same weight class.

I can't figure the problem you are having with the fence angle. If the machine tables and fence base and face are flat and the locking mechanism secure it should work.

I think it was slightly out of alignment and one of the bolts was a bit loose. I'm a little more confident it'll be fine as a become more familiar with the machine.

A belt guard would not be amiss.

I quite decide on how to mount something on there.

[Kevin Jenness]

By segmented head, you mean a helical head? Is there any reason I couldn't run one with freshly poured Babbitt bearings?

Yes. You might want to have the new head made before you redo the bearings.