Stopped Dados in Plywood, How?

[Richard Line]

What is the 'good' way to cut a stopped dado in plywood, using hand tools. I could do it with a powered router, but why put up with the noise and dust. I've done them in 'real' wood by drilling holes at the end with a forstner bit, cutting the sides with a saw, and clean out with chisels and a router plane; I've also done them without the saw helping. Any other suggestions. I've got 4 stopped dados to make, about 3/4" wide by 9 to 10 inches long and 1/4 in. deep, stopped on only 1 end.

[William Fretwell]

I would use a wide chisel, say 1 & 1/2” to 2” to cut down the sides then a router plane. 1/4” deep is not far. Put tape on the chisel to mark the depth. It should be more precise than a saw. Use the same forstner bit and chisel method for the stopped ends.

If money is no object the Veritas combination plane has nickers which would cut the cross grain and minimize tear out.

[Richard Coers]

Keep in mind that plywood glue is very hard on hand tools.

[Jim Koepke]

I could do it with a powered router, but why put up with the noise and dust.

Keep in mind that plywood glue is very hard on hand tools.

With plywood a powered router might be the easiest way. Hogging out the waste with a forstner bit followed by a chisel to clean up would be a good option.

Not much plywood gets worked in my shop other than for drawer bottoms because it is very hard on hand tools.

Have you considered using 1X12 pine or fir instead of plywood?

Another suggestion if you clean the waste out with a chisel, use a 1/2" to 5/8" chisel in a 3/4" dado for removing the waste if you saw the sides first. It will leave a better edge at the surface.

jtk

[Mel Fulks]

Use a single flute router bit, they cut much faster than the standard two flute bits. Hard to find in stores , so order on line. Should be
a carbide bit for plywood. Steel bits are faster than the carbide bits on solid real wood.

[James Pallas]

Hi Richard, As others have said I try to stay away from plywood when I can. Sometimes you must. Here is how I usually do these cuts. I have two mill knives that I have ground to single bevels right and left. I use a straight edge to guide the mill knives. You can put a lot of pressure on a mill knife. I than use a router plane. I try to set the plane off of the glue line the best I can. If you get it about right the iron cuts wood and the glue just fractures saving the iron a little. I just chisel the end not with my good chisels. Any knife will work as long as you keep the cut perpendicular. I like the mill knives and use them for a lot of general marking especially for deep cuts.
Jim

[Derek Cohen]

What is the 'good' way to cut a stopped dado in plywood, using hand tools. I could do it with a powered router, but why put up with the noise and dust. I've done them in 'real' wood by drilling holes at the end with a forstner bit, cutting the sides with a saw, and clean out with chisels and a router plane; I've also done them without the saw helping. Any other suggestions. I've got 4 stopped dados to make, about 3/4" wide by 9 to 10 inches long and 1/4 in. deep, stopped on only 1 end.

Richard, while it can be done with hand tools, the real answer is not to try. Ply is a composite board designed for the power industry. As mentioned, the glues will damage the steels in hand tools, and are best left to the carbide of power tools, such as a router or table saw.

As to stopped dados in ply, that is a strange joint. The reason for stopped dados in solid wood is to hide the join behind the solid wood edge. With ply, there is no solid edge to hide. It needs to be added. Therefore, make a through dado, and add an edge piece.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Luke Dupont]

I agree with those who suggest avoiding plywood if possible.

You *can* work it with handtools, but it's an extremely difficult and unenjoyable experience.

I will use any cheap/junky wood I can find before plywood, unless it's really thin stuff for a drawer bottom or something.

[Richard Line]

Thanks for all of the comments, they are appreciated. Derek, about 2 hours before seeing your comment, I came to the same conclusion – I'd use solid wood to cover the plies, so why not also us them to get rid of the stopped dado.
I forgot to tell you that the reason for using plywood is because I have about a 10 year old piece of nearly 4x8 poplar plywood that I haven't used and want to get it out of the storage area; well and also because I'd rather work with 'real' wood. I'm also aware of the wear on hand tools due to plywood, but I was willing to handle that problem.
Thanks for all the helpful comments.