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Thread: 40/40 Grind on the Tormek

  1. #1
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    40/40 Grind on the Tormek

    Has anyone had success using their tormek for the 40/40?

    I found some info online and a couple of folks have suggested the following settings:
    JS=2, P=75, hole setting = A
    Thanks in advance for any info.
    "The reward of a thing well done is having done it." - Ralph Waldo Emerson

  2. #2
    The problem with getting jigs to make the 40/40 grind, is that most of them don't roll far enough to the side. Dennis Gooding found a way to do it with the Varigrind jig, which he posted in the AAW Tips and techniques section. There is a way to do it with a jig from Ron Brown (I think) and he uses a 3 inch protrusion. The Tormek set up does allow you to roll a bit more to the side than the wolverine set up does. I do all of my sharpening on platforms so I never experimented with jig set ups.

    robo hippy

  3. #3
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    Thanks, Reed. I found the varigrind setup you're referring to but alas, I have the tormek lol. I think my best bet on a legitimate answer is to grind by hand and then try the jig at the same angle immediately following. This way I can see if there's a difference in the bevel (after marking it).

  4. #4
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    I got pretty close to a 40/40, but not great. I have a custom protrusion that I made. The setting that you list is a good setting I think. The only thing left to play with is the protrusion and it's neither of the jig protrusions.
    The Ron Brown jig works pretty good too. Can't beat hand grinding though.

    Hey Reed, any update on your Robo rest sales?

  5. #5
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    If you've got a flat platform that can be set at 40 degrees to the wheel it should work fine. Stuart Batty has videos on Youtube that show how to do it (not on a Tormek, but the brand of the grinder shouldn't matter)

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Kananis View Post
    I think my best bet on a legitimate answer is to grind by hand and then try the jig at the same angle immediately following. This way I can see if there's a difference in the bevel (after marking it).
    That is what I did with the the Tru-Grind gouge jig and got close, but it was not quite as good as doing it freehand, so I went back to that.
    Neil

    About the same distance from most of you heading East or West.

    It's easy to see the Dunning-Kruger Effect in others, but a bit of a conundrum when it comes to yourself...



  7. #7
    I made a close replica of Hannes Michelson's Vector jig using a wood platform screwed to the Wolverine arm and played with the pivot locations and Varigrind settings. I was able to get very close to the 40 40 grind done on a platform rest but smoothly blending the wing and nose angles is better done by hand. I still use the jig periodically for the relief bevels. I think if you can slide the Tormek holder far enough to the sides you should be able to get a good result. The key is to grind the gouge following Batty's instructions and make sure the jig gives the same results.

    I fiddled with the Varigrind using one pivot point and gave it up as a bad job. It seemed impossible to avoid a more acute angle on the wings than the nose doing it that way.

  8. #8
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    I've played with it a bit but I don't think there's a way (that I've found) to pull it off successfully.

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