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Thread: Delta/Invicta RS15 bearing replacement

  1. #1
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    Delta/Invicta RS15 bearing replacement

    I'll start out with that I did a search for this and could not find what I needed.

    I bought this machine a few years ago and finally got the space to set it up and turn it on. Woohoo that it ran but blah that the bearings seem to be making excessive noise. I want to replace the bearings, but am having a hard time figuring out how to remove the spindle cartridge. I am mechanically competent enough if I have someone to walk me through the procedure. Also, the spindle lock does not engage enough to allow me to remove the spindle. I am looking for some help with this so I don't do anything stupid. Thanks

  2. #2
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    Kevin I will be following this thread with interest because I have this same shaper. My bearings are still fine at this point. Have you tried adding grease to the top bearing ? I added a small amount after tracking down a grease that was on the list right on the fence guard. I will say you are really going to like this machine when you get everything figured out. It is a very smooth and powerful machine.

  3. #3
    I’ve seen that once in the same machine that was bought used. Most likely the collar that encircles the spindle was not in correct place when
    someone changed spindle . You have to tighten it to where it is just snug enough to keep the assembled pieces from moving separately.
    Not doing that , the company had to bring in a machinist to get the thing loose. I was not there that day ,so did not see procedure.
    You have to get the right O rings and change them out before they fall apart.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Kees View Post
    Kevin I will be following this thread with interest because I have this same shaper. My bearings are still fine at this point. Have you tried adding grease to the top bearing ? I added a small amount after tracking down a grease that was on the list right on the fence guard. I will say you are really going to like this machine when you get everything figured out. It is a very smooth and powerful machine.
    I might try greasing them but I'm worried about how long it was ran dry. I can't wait to use it. Most of my experience has been on 3hp Taiwan machines. I figure I might as well replace bearings now and be done with it.

  5. #5
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    What do you have to lose ? If you plan on replacing them anyway why not spend $ 5-10 on a tube of grease and give it a try first. I planned on doing my bearings as well ,but so far it is still smooth with no extra noise on wind down so I am just using it. When I purchased the machine ,I was lucky to be able to test it under power first so knew the bearings were at least still good. Rebuilding the spindle in this machine will definitely be a major job compared to my old 3hp Steel City.

  6. #6
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    Bearings have numbers etched on them. Replacing them with identical is easy, but there are also cross references to other brands. There is at least one bearing/power transmission store in every major city, but you can find replacements by Google Searching the numbers too. The benefit that you get by going to one of these stores is that they will know if there are better quality versions available. They will also know by the code letters in the part number what lubricant is in them and what seals are on the sides. The cost from these stores might be a little higher than online, but this expert guidance is well worth it if you want the best for the application. In Charlotte, NC we have Dixie Bearing, but they likely don't have a store near you. Just do a search, even in the Yellow Pages for "Bearings" near you, or search on the part number etched in the bearing.


    Charley

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Lent View Post
    Bearings have numbers etched on them. Replacing them with identical is easy, but there are also cross references to other brands. There is at least one bearing/power transmission store in every major city, but you can find replacements by Google Searching the numbers too. The benefit that you get by going to one of these stores is that they will know if there are better quality versions available. They will also know by the code letters in the part number what lubricant is in them and what seals are on the sides. The cost from these stores might be a little higher than online, but this expert guidance is well worth it if you want the best for the application. In Charlotte, NC we have Dixie Bearing, but they likely don't have a store near you. Just do a search, even in the Yellow Pages for "Bearings" near you, or search on the part number etched in the bearing.


    Charley
    Normally a four digit number. RS or RR means rubber seals. ZZ means shielded.
    I used to like the NTN bearing finder. They changed it and it is a little harder to use. You probably want a single row deep groove ball bearing.
    I think NTN calls a sealed bearing LL not RR.
    Bill D.

    https://bearingfinder.ntnamericas.co...-ball-bearings
    Last edited by Bill Dufour; 04-24-2022 at 3:18 PM.

  8. #8
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    Should be a 6206zz bottom and a 6211z (c3) top

  9. #9
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    I would upgrade to RR. Helps keep dust out and lube in. Sixty years ago the rubber and grease was not as good as today's synthetic stuff.
    Buy a bearing splitter 2" is plenty big enough for home shop stuff. Harbor fright is probably good enough for home owner use once a year. Personally I bought OTC used from ebay.
    Bill D

    https://www.harborfreight.com/bearin...CABEgI5LfD_BwE

  10. #10
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    If those are the original bearings how old is the grease inside, 20+ years a.t least?
    Bill D

  11. #11
    i also have an RS15 . Got it running this winter after finding a cheap vfd for it. Top bearing is a little noisy . I greased it but I may have used the wrong kind and to much grease. Bearing is still noisy and I am a little concerned about running it like this and ruining something. Need to look into it later this summer.

  12. #12
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    A sealed bearing 30% fill is the normal amount of grease.
    Bill D

  13. #13
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    Jared have you rebuilt the spindle in one of these machines ?

  14. #14
    I used to have the same shaper and wish I hadn’t sold it years ago. I had to replace the bearings once and just removed the spindle assembly and took it to a machine shop to have them do it. Watch for any shims and make sure you have the equipment to take measurements when you are done to make sure it’s all tuned up.

    Wish I could find a deal on another one of these or an SCMI.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Kees View Post
    Jared have you rebuilt the spindle in one of these machines ?
    No, not a rs15. The quill appears identical to the ti-14 and they do share spindles (among other things)

    To the op, I'd assume you have to pull the driven sheaves and lower housing/motor mount then pull the quill out the top of the machine.

    Some cribbing makes it easier to leave the motor in place.
    20190105_215159.jpg

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