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Thread: Japanese Sashimono-style Paulownia Boxes

  1. #1
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    Japanese Sashimono-style Paulownia Boxes

    About a month ago, my wife's friend came to visit us and our new (well, 8 month old!) baby.

    She had two daughters, 9 and 13, both of whom were really intelligent and curious and spoke good English (having gone to an international school).

    They loved playing with our baby! And, they also really enjoyed playing with my woodworking tools!

    I let them use Japanese and Western planes and saws a bit, which they really enjoyed.

    Anyway, we're going over to their house to visit them this time, and my wife suggested maybe I can make some small boxes as presents for the two daughters.

    I recently found some videos by a Sashimono-shi in Japan who specializes in making high-end boxes, and have been wanting to give this a try, so I figured I would try making a simplified version.

    I wanted to make this out of Paulownia, which I don't have on hand, and it would take to long to special order online, so I went down to the local 100-yen shop and found some thin, flat-sawn Paulownia cutting boards to turn into gifts!

    DSC_0244.jpg

    These were split in half along the grain with a cutting gauge. One of those halves was then crosscut into two pieces to make the top and bottom of the box. The other half was split again along the grain, and then crosscut into four pieces to make the sides. The boxes will be square, with all sides being equal length.

    They were then all trimmed to the exact same size on the shooting board. The sashimono-shi that I watched used two jigs besides the shooting board that I wasn't familiar with, and are pictured here:
    1) A "bench hook" without the "cleat for the bench" (just one cleat on top), which is clamped onto the shooting board with a brass hatagane (clamp) to act as a stop to achieve a specific length or width when shooting.
    2) A very simple, perfectly square... square of wood with a hole in the center for your finger. This will be used when gluing the box together to check that the inside of the box is perfectly square on all sides, so that the lid will fit snugly in any orientation. I haven't finished cutting the joinery yet, so this has yet to be used.

    DSC_0245.jpg

    The joints will be simple box joints (dovetails without the angle), which are glued with rice-glue and then nailed using tapered bamboo nails / pegs. I've tested this joint already with just the bamboo nails and no glue, and it was much stronger than I would have thought it would be.
    I'm in the process of cutting the joints. Alas, I cut one a bit loose. It seems like I always do this when cutting dovetails or any such joint for the first time in a while. Then the rest turn out good. I should get in the habit of cutting a quick "rehersal" board each time to get the bad one out of the way... Oh well. Gluing a shaving on the loose bit.

    DSC_0243.jpg

    Sorry for the really bad picture quality. It's night time and my phone doesn't do well in low-light environments...

    The grain is supposed to be oriented such that it matches (the growth rings going from large to small) as much as possible. I'm not sure that I entirely understand the guidelines for how this is done, but I'm doing as best I can with the material I have (the cutting boards being laminated edge to edge, so in a few pieces the grain changes... though, for the most part, I was able to avoid lamination "lines" in most of the pieces). Really though, I'm not making the really high end boxes with hefty price tags here, so this is not something to fret over too much.

    To be continued!

    P.S. My bamboo nails also came from the 100-yen shop. I'm using bamboo skewers!
    Last edited by Luke Dupont; 04-18-2022 at 10:59 AM.

  2. #2
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    I finished cutting the box joints and glued up the sides of the first box.

    I was going to use rice glue, but realized that I don't have enough time as that takes a while to dry. Also, I didn't eat rice today (a rare occurrence!) and didn't want to make it just for glue. So, white wood glue it is, this time around.

    sashimono-box-clamp.jpg

    I was lacking one brass clamp, so I used a larger steel one.

    Clamps are off. Now to nail the corners with bamboo pegs.

    sashimono-box-unclamped.jpg

    I left the joints protruding a lot more than I normally do. Not intentional really, though it should help prevent splitting when I drive the bamboo nails in (which are sharpened and tapered).

    Everything will be planed flush in the end, of course.

    I thought these little boxes would go by much faster, but they're a surprising amount of work. Or I just work painfully slow. Probably the latter! I have to finish them before this weekend.
    Last edited by Luke Dupont; 04-19-2022 at 9:51 AM.

  3. #3
    A tapered drill bit works well for the hole the bamboo skewers to be driven into.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Weber View Post
    A tapered drill bit works well for the hole the bamboo skewers to be driven into.
    Yes, it does!

    I made my own four sided hand drill from a nail for this purpose, since the other ones I have were a bit too large.

    Get good at drilling with this tool, and you should have no problem making primitive fire with just a few sticks!

    But a tapered drill bit of the rightsize and taper would have worked just fine too.

    sashimono-box-drill.jpg

    sashimono-box-nails.jpg

    Usually two nails per "finger" would be used, but because my box is small, I could only comfortably fit one nail into each.

    The pilot holes for the nails should be drilled *just* inside the base-line, and angled outwards slightly (so they don't accidently come out inside the box) and also angled towards or away from eachother slightly. So, you have compound angles, and the nails are as far away as possible from the ends of the boards, where they might split it.

  5. #5
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    After driving in and flushing the nails and planing the bottom edges of the box flush and flat, it's time to glue (and then nail) on the bottom.

    Be very gentle with the clamps, because Paulownia is a very soft wood. You don't need to clamp down too tightly.
    Japanese style brass hatagane / bar clamps are great for this as, unless you really tighten the "stop" down, the "stop" will slide and open up if you are clamping down with too much pressure. Excellent for delicate work.
    I don't have enough hatagane though, so I had to employ other clamps.

    sashimono-box-bottom.jpg

    Leave the bottom over-sized so you can easily plane it down flush rather than trying to measure everything perfectly.
    I cut the end grain much closer than the long grain, because it's much more difficult to plane.

    As you're putting the glue on, try to keep it towards the outside edges so that it doesn't squeeze out to the inside of the box. You don't need to go super heavy with the glue as we'll also be nailing on the bottom.
    Last edited by Luke Dupont; 04-19-2022 at 9:37 PM.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Luke Dupont View Post

    The pilot holes for the nails should be drilled *just* inside the base-line, and angled outwards slightly (so they don't accidently come out inside the box) and also angled towards or away from eachother slightly. So, you have compound angles, and the nails are as far away as possible from the ends of the boards, where they might split it.
    Putting the nails at an angle also creates a wedge effect and prevents the piece from pulling straight off. This is an added insurance for if the glue fails.

    I commend you on going the full traditional route

  7. #7
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    Woodworking in an apartment would be an adventure for most of us. Clearly some fun and satisfaction can be had without an extensive shop. Working in another country, facing language and cultural differences would double the challenge. Double again for the new child and you must feel very alive. Please continue to share the adventure with us.

  8. #8
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    I finished the boxes, and gave them as gifts last week. The girls seemed to like them!

    I made a few mistakes. On one of them, I put the grain of the bottom oriented the "wrong" way. On the other, I had real trouble fitting the lid as the box itself was ever so slightly rectangular. I managed to sand it square enough to get a good fit, but the lid became not quite as snug as I'd like it to have been.

    Making square, as opposed to rectangular boxes, is quite a bit more challenging than I realized.

    Anyway, here's the finished products:

    box-complete.jpg
    box-complete-with-lid.jpg
    boxes-complete-pair.jpg


    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Bender View Post
    Woodworking in an apartment would be an adventure for most of us. Clearly some fun and satisfaction can be had without an extensive shop. Working in another country, facing language and cultural differences would double the challenge. Double again for the new child and you must feel very alive. Please continue to share the adventure with us.

    An adventure indeed!

    I've always been ambitious and, consequently, had my work cut out for me...
    Those are all big challenges indeed! But little by little, I can still make progress on my projects!

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